6100 not working

Pepbill

Member
I plug in my 6100 and the motor block makes a humming/rattling sound but the impeller does not turn. Same with a different power supply.
 
Do you know if you have the older 6080.600 or 6100.600 drive unit or the newer 6100.700? It may be if you have a 6080.600 or 6100.600 that the drive unit has worn out and the magnet is turning without engaging the shaft. In this case a 6100.700 is all you would need to fix it. The cleaning thread at the top of the forum shows the two styles and you can also compare them on tunze.com.
 
While it isn't an absolute diagnosis, typically if you get an alarm and the driver does not get excessively hot it is the motor, if the driver gets hot and doesn't alarm or emits an abnormal alarm (strange pitch or very soft) it is the driver. The place to feel for the heat is at the top bracket, there is a heat sink under there and a bad driver will get quite hot in a about 15 seconds. Otherwise, you can get a more accurate diagnosis with a watt meter, on a 6100 a bad driver will typically show as a very high wattage, like 150-400w. A bad motor will show as a very low wattage like 0-30w but occasionally a bad motor shows a wattage in the range of 80-115w, it depends on the fault. A lower wattage means half the coil is dead, a higher wattage means a short is keeping both coils on all the time.
 
ok checked. Draws around 112w and is now making a beeping sound. Sporadic and not as loud as the one I'm used to.
 
If you are positive it is a 6100 and not a 6000 I would say it is the motor, keep in mind the only difference between a 6100 and 6000 is the transformer, both used motor 6100.100. The 6000 could draw about 100w on a bad driver.
 
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