625 Gallon Stand Question

[marinelife]

I am helping Dmorty217 build his new 625 Gallon Tank. We are currently working on the stand and had a few questions.
It was purchased used and we are using cinder blocks to make the stand.
We will use the old metal frame on top of the blocks. It is 2x2 steal. Our question is, looking at the picture of how the cinder blocks are can we get way with the spacing we have. Its 33" in the back and 18" on the front.

Thoughts
Please note the legs will be removed so it sits flat on the cinder blocks with a piece of plywood between it and the tank.

 

[Dmorty217]

Anyone? Bueller?

 

[d-man]

Lol

 

[dave.m]

If you are using the same steel stand that the tank originally sat on then the cinder block spacing will probably work. The blocks should be spaced to support the stand, i.e. what the stand expects to be under it.

What are you doing to protect the blocks from salt splash/creep?

Dave.M

 

[anbosu]

I think you will be fine. I would consider a plywood sandwich for the steel, and I would definitely paint or seal the cinderblock.

 

[Dmorty217]

So then something you would use in a basement to make it water tight?

 

[dave.m]

Tons of stuff to know. Get a book or search on-line. You can get concrete sealants. You can use treated lumber. You can put up vapour barriers to protect vat insulation and use acoustic sealant to make that air-tight. You can use spray-on insulation which is an insulator and vapour barrier in one.

Make sure you have adequate air circulation to get excess moisture out of the basement or you will turn it into a mold factory. Humidity from saltwater will corrode just about any metal in the basement, so you really want to get that stuff out as quickly as you can with an HVAC, AC or fans.

Dave.M

 

[Dmorty217]

Tons of stuff to know. Get a book or search on-line. You can get concrete sealants. You can use treated lumber. You can put up vapour barriers to protect vat insulation and use acoustic sealant to make that air-tight. You can use spray-on insulation which is an insulator and vapour barrier in one.

Make sure you have adequate air circulation to get excess moisture out of the basement or you will turn it into a mold factory. Humidity from saltwater will corrode just about any metal in the basement, so you really want to get that stuff out as quickly as you can with an HVAC, AC or fans.

Dave.M

I just meant on the cinderblocks. I plan on doing something for wet applications such as in a bathroom for the walls. I plan on getting a large dehumidifier and building a wall around my HVAC

 

[CHSUB]

are you going to fill the blocks with concrete? i have had concrete blocks crumble on me with a lot less weight than a huge tank.

 

[CuzzA]

are you going to fill the blocks with concrete? i have had concrete blocks crumble on me with a lot less weight than a huge tank.

+1 I would probably go ahead and drop some rebar in their too, just to make sure you overkill it. :deadhorse:

There's a steel stand thread floating around with a few guys that run calculations on the strength of stands for everyone. I think it may be titled "show off your steel stands." Perhaps they could better answer your spacing question.

 

[Dmorty217]

are you going to fill the blocks with concrete? i have had concrete blocks crumble on me with a lot less weight than a huge tank.

Really? There are schools being built around me that are made of cinderblocks that are mostly hollow (not filled with concrete or rebar) and some of the walls are 20+ft high and holding much more weight than this tank. They do have mortar in the joints but that's it. Here is what I'm looking to mimic if you will...

 

[CuzzA]

In all likelihood it won't be a problem, but what if? And as far as building construction with cinder block the top block is poured with concrete and any area that is an overhang, (door or window) has a solid header and is usually poured on the sides. As CHSUB mentioned, the problem would only exist IF one of the blocks was weak and gave way. Again, unlikely, but not impossible. Also that is a hell of a lot of weight on your foundation. If it were to crack and settle the unsecured brick would likely crack and tumble. Again, if.

 

[Dmorty217]

Very valid points CuzzA. I'm only doing this once, should do it right.

 

[CHSUB]

Very valid points CuzzA. I'm only doing this once, should do it right.

yes, most likely strong enough! however, mixing a few bags of concrete and a little rebar in less than a hour would make me feel better. BTW, my house is block and the holes are filled with concrete and rebar.

 

[anbosu]

The rebar is probably overkill but isn't going to hurt anything. Quickrete is easy to use and wouldn't take long to add it in.

 

[jmm]

Do you have anything that goes under the aquarium? It doesn't look like a sump or plumbing will fit.

If you are open to another suggestion I have one. I had a 500 gallon tank that didn't need anything under it except a stand. I went to a styrofoam plastic company and had a 4 foot by 8 foot by 2 foot block of styrofoam (floating boat dock material) made. I put a piece of 4X8 marine grade plywood on the floor, put the 4x8 foot styrofoam on top of that and another 4x8 piece of plywood over the styrofoam with a piece of carpet over that. The tank sat on top of that.

There was no (zero) compression with the tank on the styrofoam base. There was no compression with rocks and water in the tank. I used that combination for 3 years and then moved out of town. At the new place I used a wood stand (4x4s). When I moved again I used another styrofoam stand. I sold it all after 8 years. The new owner uses the styrofoam stand.

The beauty of the setup is that the 3/4 inch plywood that sandwiches the styrofoam can be used to attach decorative sides and front. I changed decor with paneling and molding several times along the way without disturbing the structural part.

And it was self leveling I suppose, because I never took pains to level it, it was perfectly level every time I set it up except for that year on the wooden stand.

 

[Dmorty217]

I hadn't thought about the styrofoam. I was going to do plywood, stand top, plywood, tank. The 210g sump and 220g refugium will sit behind the tank, so nothing under under it. There is a drain in the floor behind the tank with a 8" wide grate by 40" long. Concrete going in the cinderblocks tomorrow