7049 problems...!!! HELP

[jarheadbob]

Roger,

This is not a good time to be going on vacation!

My Multicontroller just went "lights out". It was working less than an hour ago. I realize that you are not going to be able to solve my problem in the next few hours but please get back in touch with me.

Is there something that I can do to "reset" this thing or is it dead?

If dead, is there a way to get one to replace ASAP. I waited about 8 weeks to get the one I have. (3 weeks later than the pumps). I have two stream pumps on this controller as the primary circulation on a 190 gal tank. This controller is less than a month old.

I hope this is a fluke and that these contollers are reliable. I have alot of money invested in these things not to mention what I have in the tank its self... but you hear that all of the time.

Please get back with me ASAP.

darrell.vaughn@comcast.net

 

[jarheadbob]

Update

Update

With limited troubleshooting due to the late hour I have been able to determine it is not the controller. That is the good news. With the controller operational I can run the other stream.

The problem apears to be in the blue box of one of the pumps. I can feel that the box is pretty warm to the touch. I did not get the buzzer sounding to indicate any kind of a problem. The system just stopped working. I took the cover off of the pump to inspect for snails or calcium build up.. I did not find either.

I tried to plug and unplug the connectors on the controller only to find that the problem follows only one of them... the other powers the controller fine.

I moved the pougs on the blue boxes to around to get the other pump to kick in. When I do this the same blue box seems to continue to get warm regardless of the pump that is supposed to be powered up.

I guess my question is:

I a sure there is some kind of waranty on these pumps I am not not sure what it is. The pump that I am referring to is a Stream 6000. The other is a 6010 and it seems to be fine

Please let me know what I can do to further troubleshhot this or start the ball rolling on getting this one replaced.

Thank you,

Darrell
Satisfied Customer

 

[rvitko]

It sounds like the blue driver box is bad. Please double check the following

Does it run with no controller?

When you remove the entire drive unit per the manual is it clean and free of lime?


Does the transformer run the other pump that is working?

If so I can only say it must be the driver and we can replace it under warranty- just send me the pump and driver. The only exception would be if we find the driver was ruined by water damage.

 

[jarheadbob]

Roger,

Thanks for your relpy, I am sure you did not want see a post like this upon your return.

Q1) Does it run with no controller?

A1) It is not running now (disconnected from controller). Is there a way to run a pump without a controller?


Q2) When you remove the entire drive unit per the manual is it clean and free of lime?

A1) I have not not taken the pump apart, however, I have only been running them for a few weeks so there should not be in to bad of shape. It is late so I will review the procedure for cleaning them this weekend and will update this thread.

Q3) Does the transformer run the other pump that is working?

A3) Yes, I tried that early in the T/Sing.

I didn't notice any water around the blue boxes. But I have seen stranger things. I have not noticed any leaks around behind the tank. Like I mentioned, it was working 30 mins before I noticed it. It happened late at night after the controller had slowed the circulation down.

I will update this thread after I check the pump.

Again thanks for your time and help.

Darrell

 

[rvitko]

The pump will work if you don't connect the controller to the driver (blue box)- it will just run at full speed. Here we can rule out whether it is the driver or the multicontroller or a cable between the two.

Check the drive unit- perhaps it is cracked or damaged. A cracked magnet could cause no alarm and a warm driver.

 

[jarheadbob]

I finally had a chance to troubleshoot my streams. I have been fighting a declining tank all week only to end up losing a valued acro, a Blonde Naso Tang and maybe a yellow leather. The problems are from having the weaker of the two transformers connected the working stream... may bad! I thought I had reversed them early in the T/S process to buy me some time.

As it turns out I believe the porblem to be in the driver.

I am able to measure 24 volts on both sides of one transformer and 14.5 volts on both sides of the other one. I can get both of the transformeres to drive the one good stream.

When I connect the transformers to the respective driver boxes I can read 24 volts on the good driver and only about 2 volts on the bad one.

I have removed the the impeller of the bad stream and all seems to look okay.

At this point I think is safe to assume that the driver is box is bad. I realize that the delay in this process is completely my fault but I have to ask what the turn around is on getting this one repaired or replaced? I have already lost a $150 Blonde Naso Tang and a beautful acro, related or not, I would like to prevent anymore losses.

Thanks in advance for any help and/or information that you can provide.

Please don't take offense to the tone of this email, I am alittle disapointed in this situation as I have spent over $1k on these pumps to prevent this very thing. I hope this can get resolved in a timely manner as I would loke to continue to recommend your product of others.

 

[rvitko]

Just send me the pump and we can get it repaired. As long as it isn't the result of water damage it will be warranty.

Tunze USA
1107 N Bend Dr
Austin TX 78758

I don't need the transformer so save the shipping weight and don't send it. I will need the pump as the driver needs to be calibrated to the pump sometimes and when a driver goes bad after working for sometime the causes could involve the pump.

 

[rvitko]

BTW Turn around is usually 24hrs after recieving the product which is returned by UPS ground free of charge. The fastest and surest way of getting it to me is UPS. The worst possible way is US mail as in most cases I will have to retrieve it at the post office and this can add a day or two to the process. Longest a repair ever runs is 48hrs and this is when I have a suspicion of a complicated or time delayed problem that requires a test run for an extended time. Most of the time I can look at something and the cause is fairly cut and dry. If after repair everything checks out on the RMS analyzer it is returned.

 

[jarheadbob]

Roger,

Thank you for your support and help.

I should have the pump in the mail tomorrow. 11.12.03

DV