7095 night mode

[robthorn]

I have the 7095 with one 6100 at the moment. when my tank lights go out the moon light comes on and should be night mode but the pump ramps up to 100% and stays there until the lights come back on. it is set for night and moon ,pulse and 1-60 seconds. It pulses fine in day mode. channel 1 top is at minimum and the bottom is set to maximum. I just started it up yesterday and it's brand spanking new. did I do something wrong? this is my first tunze product please be patient with me . thanks,
robert

 

[rvitko]

The night mode is whatever the bottom knobs are set to, set these lower for a calmer night mode.

 

[robthorn]

when the bottom knob is set lower will it still ramp up to 100% when the halides are on? it seemed to control the maximum rpm during day time also. so if I want to run 30-100% during the day and slow to 30% at night should I set the bottom to 30% and the one directly above it at 100? it didn't appear to work this way but I am willing to try again.

 

[rvitko]

Yes, top at 100% and bottom at 30% should do exactly the same thing but night will be 30%.

 

[robthorn]

thank you I will try it and let you know

 

[robthorn]

ok I had them reversed thank you very much.
I bought the magnet mount and put the 6100 on it and today when I got home I had a couple half rtn'ed acros due to the tunze spinning and directing the water right on them at about 7-8 inches. you guys ever thought of a nylon screw to prevent this? set it screw it down and forget it? as you can imagine I was pretty upset when I got home since I have had one of them for over 3 years and now I have about 60% of it left.
maybe rtn isn't the right word but all that is left on those parts is a bright white skeleton

 

[rvitko]

The 6200 come with a screw and the post is tapped because of the added force, I have not had them move though if the teeth on the piece are firmly meshed. I think what happens in these cases is either the teeth were not really pressed together or the cord is pushing back on the pump so coupled with some vibration the pump moves. You could use a zip tie. The screw makes it more difficult to reomve the pump and it really slows production to have the piece tapped so it is only done for the one model that really has to have it. Overtime the acros will adapt to the higher flow as they had at least that much in the wild but at first it can cause tissue loss so it is best to start with a lower top speed.

 

[robthorn]

no acro will accept the amount of flow it was getting it would be dead first. I do not have it directed at any corals in my system it moved on it's own. my thought was to not rig it and keep it looking nice not ghetto. I am very particular about looks and zip ties do not belong in my aquarium for any reason. I use wire ties for wires only. I pushed the pieces down as far as I could get them and made sure it slipped into a lock type position. it moved on it's own from torque I would imagine. a screw would be the best way to prevent this. in my oppinion of course. I am mechanical and it's just the way I would do it.

 

[rvitko]

Rob I already asked that this piece be included threaded and with a screw, unfortunately it is just not possible given the time it takes to thread the piece and the added expense without further production delays and expense. However, I just devised a solution that will add some expense but almost no increased delays and I am testing it now, the added expense I think would be so nominal that it could be absorbed and I forwarded the concept to Germany already and I will let you know the result. I am sorry for the problem. I do however disagree about the acropora and the pump, during the development of the Stream we tested it several times with acroporas as close as 6" to the outlet of the 6100 and we had no problems once they were acclimated to the flow. We tested this and we have photos.

 

[robthorn]

thats crazy but I guess if you did it all I can say is wow. is there a possibility that I could purchase the upgraded bracket or part? if of course they let it happen or can you instruct me in how to get it done. I am afraid still to blast the acro's I have been through to much devistation to even try it. deadly salt, mh bulb radiation you name it and it seems I have done it. thanks for all the help ,
robert
how's your ritteri doing? what clowns do you have with it? does it walk around on the glass? do you have to target feed it? off subject I know but this is a hobby worth being addicted too.

 

[rvitko]

I still have the Ritteri, actually it stayed at my old shop but he is still alive in the show tank, looks great. I kept him with Rose skunks but in order to be more "commercially appealing" (grumble, grumble) the skunks were swapped for a pair of Percs. The percs lay eggs constantly though so that is pretty cool but I tried for years to get a healthy pair of roses and was really depressed to see them gone, admittedly they were the captive bred ones and had a deformity, a notched forehead but I was still happy to have them. It doesn't walk and he eats two silversides a week. He is kind of on weight watchers after growing to almost 3ft across, they restrict his food to keep him at a more managable 2ft and he has had his own tank for a couple years now.

All I did was take a piece of the heavy silicon airline that they use on Euroreefs (we use the same on our skimmers so I keep a bit on hand for repairs). I took a 1/2" length and pressed it into the hole. I drove a 5mm screw into that with a nylon washer (the screw head wasn't wide enough and a wider head screw is something they will need to source) The screw goes in just like it was threaded and it locks down tight because the silicon stretches out snug against the hole. This eliminates all the cost of threading and the time that takes and that was the main objection so hopefully they will incorporate this design and problem solved.

 

[robthorn]

thank you very much I will surely do this simple mod. it would be good to include but I am not sure if engineers would like it.
do you mean a. nigripes as rose skunks? if so they are my favorite clown along side the latezonatus. I am torn on which ones to go after.

 

[denvig]

Instead of using bolts, airline tube, washers and threading things why not just make the teeth deeper on the post and hanger pin. They are much to fine. Very simple, no additional cost after initial cost of new mold, pump can be removed easy for cleaning and it will work.

 

[rvitko]

denvig, I included that as an alternate suggestion, I don't know how easy that would be though seeing as we already have the mold and I am sure it costs at least 10K to make a new one. Sometimes they can modify the existing mold but I don't know in this case.

Rob, yeah, I meant nigripes. I like latezonatus too, both just seem to be really problematic though, in the past I could keep them alive as long as they were in quarantine with Paragon, as soon as they went in the reef theey started to get sick, I suspect Brooklynella and some internal parasite. It is hard to get healthy ones.

 

[robthorn]

hopefully better collection practices in the future will make things better. there has to be some reasonable explanation. maybe drugs or poison weakening thier immune systems?

 

[robthorn]

ok I got another 6100 today and the hanging pieces fit much more snug and I am not scared of it moving like the other one. I think either the hole was molded a bit large or the stud was a bit small because it isn't tight like the new one.
anyway my next situation is. if I want to make a small wave like a half inch back and forth kind of like the wave box just not as large. I plugged one 6100 into channel 1 and the other into channel 2. skipping the midi plug in between which I assume is 1b. I have to set the minimum and maximum the same or else it waves 30 % a time or 2 then 100% a time or 2 and it doesn't seem to wave as well as say if I set it to 60% all the time. 60% would be fine but I would like to calm it down at night when the lights are out. I am set on interval 1 is there a setting that will do what I am trying to explain or it just doesn't work that way and let you set back in night mode. I have a 180 if it matters.
thanks again this stuff is awesome I am like a little kid again.

 

[rvitko]

The night mode doesn't need to be so low, in fact on my tanks I wouldn't set it so low. It is enough of a simulation to just stop the pulsing and alternating of the pumps. You can imagine night is when the pH gets lowest from CO2 accumulation and reducing the flow only aggrevates this. It is true in the big ocean the flow drops slightly, it becomes more linear and this is largely do to high tide reducing a lot of the surf action. Still, I normally run night mode at between 60 and 100% from just one pump and interval at least on the 7094 only left one pump on. I haven't had much opportunity to use a 7095 yet.

 

[robthorn]

I don't see how to take it down to one pump in night mode. does the unit automatically stop pulsing or alternating when the lights go out? if this isn't something you are familiar with is there anyone we can ask?

 

[rvitko]

On the 7094 at least it locked in on the first and 3 sockets for the night so if you used the first and 4th sockets only one pump ran. I will be hooking up a 7095 later this week as we are finally pretty much caught up so I can spare one to try.

 

[robthorn]

sounds good please keep me informed if you don't mind and if I find something cool I will let you know