75g Reef Build

Pics 'n' more!

Ahhh. The family that DIYs together, stays together (me'n'my eldest):

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Makin' sure the 75g won't go "crick, boom, sploosh, drip, drip, drip". (Will have to go down 2nd time to install piers...)

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My wife hates this guy, but he's never gone against me:

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In fact, he's got my back. Makin' sure I don't slack on the QC:

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I got yer 80mm variable speed ultra quiet Vantec case fans wired and hangin'! -- (ps: With the variable power supply from WMart set to 9v = BARELY audible):

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Finally, the canopy/riser getup preassembled and ready to receive the tank after she's douched...

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I know it's pic intense, but dare I say we all do or should have high speed connects by now???

Please kick in if you feel the need. This IS my 'blog and I am building per dynamic real time info. THANKS!!!
 
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Hey Kevin,

Did you cut a hole in your floor so that you can reinforce the it? Sure looks like a lot of work! I live in a house on raised foundation. I ended up crawling underneath the house (12"-19") of clearance, and installed four screw jacks to give the floor extra support.

BTW - while you're under there - you might as well put in any wiring and 1/4" hose for an auto top device.

Minh

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9219348#post9219348 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kevin95695

Makin' sure the 75g won't go "crick, boom, sploosh, drip, drip, drip". (Will have to go down 2nd time to install piers...)

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Hey Minh! The hole was already there for crawl space access. Hadn't planned far enough ahead for any plumbing or wiring etc... What are you suggesting? Should I tie my RO in? Or what wiring? Being in CA I've always had a 'slab' house.

By-the-way: I may go w/KMP to the MARS meeting this Friday. Are you still going? Can we still work out something for your base rock?

--Thanks again.

Kevin
 
Kevin,

For an auto top off device, you will need a pair of wires (for the float switch sensors) and a water line (I used 1/4" hose that is used for icemaker). I have my RODI water fill a 44G Brute can. Then inside the can there is a Mag five that is connected to the waterline that tops off my sump. You may not be adding an auto topoff unit right now, but it's nice to have everything there for when you want to add it.

BTW - how are reinforcing the floor?

I plan on being at the meeting on Friday. I will bring the base rock.

Minh
 
My ATO fantasies always involved a bucket and 12v. I figured I'd refill the bucket on a weekly basis. Never thought about wiring and a remote reservoir.

But heck, if I gotta get down in that 14" gap and wriggle in the dirt... I might's'well make every trip worth it, right?

By way of reinforcement: I bought some concrete piers (little pyramids w/flat tops) and I'll place them under desired tank location with 4x4 blocks and shims cut to fit.

I should make it to MARS meeting and/or Brian's DIY PS build [final] the day after. Let me know what we can do to make it a fair trx. THANKS!!!
 
I originally thought about doing the same thing, but my neighbor (structual engineer) did like the idea because of the concentration of the force in one small footprint plus the lack of fine adjustment. I didn't like the idea of trying to drag those heavy piers underneath the house either. My neighbor came up with the idea of the 4x6 for the base and header, and using screw jacks.

BTW - a remote auto top of is really nice. No bucket in the house! I fill my Brute every couple of weeks. My RODI unit is out in the garage - so when I have forgotten to turn it off, it just flood the garage (no biggie). Some day I will install a float switch on my RODI to prevent overflowing.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9219436#post9219436 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kevin95695
By way of reinforcement: I bought some concrete piers (little pyramids w/flat tops) and I'll place them under desired tank location with 4x4 blocks and shims cut to fit.
 
Update: We moved the 29g FW. That made space to move the entertainment center. Did that. That made space to move the 55g FW. Did that. Father-in-law (remodel contractor) and I crawled under house. After calculations figured out the footings are directly beneath the tank -- set on concrete pilons. By the time I found a surface I could scrape level it would be too far away to matter. In his words: "I've seen bigger tubs over weaker floors." In any case I plan to place the stand on a sheet of 5/8" plywood that is a couple inches longer & wider than the stand to both raise viewing level and further spread load.

My lights showed up and I screwed up the order. I wound up getting the 760W @ 48x15x3 -- Much bigger than the 48x11.5x3 I thought I ordered. Fills the freakin' canopy. No way I'm sending these back though. I'll figure out how to remod lid or sell this one and start fresh (which looks like the simpler option at this point). I opened that bad daddy up and everything looks legit. Fired the switch and let'er burn... Me likey. My only complaint so far is the fan. Noiiiisy. I'm hunting a replacement 110v/120v 120mm. Had to check clearances while I was in there...
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Kevin,

Nice light. Do you mind if I ask what brand it is? Also - sounds like you're doing a lot of work to set up your tank.

Minh
 
Thanks. I've got more energy than money to throw at this project. It's el cheapo Odyssea from aquatraders. I'm subscribed to a lengthy thread discussing both which gave me the info I needed to make the purchase. I plan to later upgrade MH ballasts and when these bulbs get old, those too. As far as I can tell the rest of the unit is from the same factory as a Coralife Aqualight Pro. I got bored w/FW and the reef challenge is feeding my tinker jones. I figure this is my shot at getting it right so I'm taking my time. Trying to think things through and I'm counting on those of you that have gone before me for guidance. Thanks for that.
 
like those lights kevin. i got my lights today also for the work tank. divide your watt output by 10 and that's what we got - a 72 watter :D

the oceanic cube comes w/a 15w and we intend on putting shrooms, xenia, and maybe some zoa's so i'm hoping the 72w will be enough. got it from www.aquauniverse.com in sac. custom built w/10K wired separate from the actinc wired seperate from the moon lights. two little fans and legs. great deal for the money.

still waiting to hear from the guy on my tank lead. he's gone awol on me - darn.
 
Kevin

Looks like they remodeled the complete unit!!

I noticed that the fixture is now flat,where as before the PCs are mounted at a 10 degree angle and then used the reflector to angle back.Also the older Odyssea UV glass has a 1/4" frosted edge which I did dont like.Is the reflector above the MH polished or is it old style were it looks like cheap diamond plate.

The New Model looks much nicer.(Maybe they will take a trade in!)

One more thing,how is the heat from the ballast box mine gets very,very warm(hot).

Dave
 
Hi Dave,

The MH reflectors are polished. I have only run the MHs twice for about an hour each. The ballasts felt warm, not hot, but I don't think they were fired long enough either... I plan to run a 12v computer fan at the box vents as insurance though. They are flat. I seriously think this is the same shell as the Coralife Aqualight Pro. The MH splash glass has a frosted edge, but it's suspended in a track and I don't know if it's an issue in this application.
 
Update: Pulled tank. Tipped it on it's back in bed of pickup. Thoroughly washed it. Had some trouble with grit embedded in bottom, but got what I could. Also bear of a time with hard water stains in glass center brace at top. Went as far as glycolic acid with not much results. Pulled sump and it's on the counter awaiting it's bath. Sanded and painted the body of the stand. Re-placed the tank on the stand and taped off for paint.

Plan to paint stand doors, white reflective paint inside canopy, and tank back tomorrow. Any tips on that part? Good paint or techniques for painting the glass? Blue vs. Black? I know, paint the outside...

Skimmer's done! THANKS BRIAN AND MINH FOR THE BIG PUSH TO FINAL ASSEMBLY! No, I did not sleep with it next to me last night (wife wouldn't allow it), but it did stay on my night stand, next to my night light.

My wife said she didn't mind me playing reefdork all day, but I guess the price you pay is something like this: We got a new puppy while I was gone -- Sadie. And she is very sweet. My wife tells me I wanted a black lab for a hunting dog anyway...
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nice dog - nice skimmer - nice tank behind the reefdork kissing the skimmer - glad the skimmer looks unused :D
 
Kevin,

Is that the DIY skimmer,how tall is it ?

Brian was making me one but dont know if it will fit,I only have about 3'' on one side of refugium and about 4.5'' on the other.

Dave
 
I got the 24" odyssea MH system and love it so far. Fan is noisy, but it keeps it nice and cool. Ballast stays cool. Only complaint is the bulb is a lot more yellow than 15k like the box says. Only time will tell if its a good light though. Good luck with yours. We took a gamble but lets hope it pays off.
 
Thanks saltykelly.

Hi Dave. My skimmer is 26" tall (a little taller if you count the flexible airline tubing we recirculated into the top). These are all "one off" so your final unit may be 1/2" either way. Mine is also about 4.0-4.5" wide most of the way up until you get to the clear acrylic ring (see pic near thumb of right hand -- my right). You might be able to wriggle yours into place but you'd be better off if you could scooch your 'fuge over to give a little more room. Or wait, are you mounting yours in the 'fuge?
 
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