8ft 300g build

Sethjamto

New member
I started a thread a while back when I picked up a used 8ft 300g acrylic aquarium but decided to start a new one now that progress is being made!

It's a Midwest Custom Acrylics 96"x24"x30" on a steel stand. I spent some time buffing out the acrylic and probably have one final buff job to finish it off. I recently picked up the following equipment for it:

MRC 48" High-Flow sump
MRC MR-4 Skimmer
Litermeter III (will use for continuous water changes)
Reeflo Dart (plus spare) for return and supplying manifold
Panworld 150 to power the skimmer
Various Mags for misc stuff or spares

Still need:
Lights - I'm ordering the Reefbreeders 48" photons soon
Powerheads - I'm sealing up the 5 holes on the bottom of the tank from the previous owner's closed loop system and will be going with the Jabeo 60's. I'll do one on each end and see how the flow is. Add more if needed.

Today was spent with a few trips back and forth getting plumbing supplies and starting the plumb the skimmer, sump and manifold together. This weekend I'll get my neighbor and his son to come over and help me move the tank so that I can do the drains and return plumbing. It has dual corner overflows that were previously rigged with Durso style drains. I'll be going Herbie on it on both ends. Still undecided if I'll have both siphons tie in together right before the sump and control it with a single gate valve or go with each siphon line having it's own gate valve. I've read that both work. Thoughts? Then each overflow will also have the emergency drain.

Here's some pics of the plumbing I did today.

Here's the skimmer with the Panworld 150 to power it. All I need to do now is run the supply line from the sump to the skimmer to feed it (all I need is one more fitting and the 3/4" flex pipe to run it. It'll be powered off of the manifold and the Reeflo Dart).


Another view showing the Dart return and skimmer:


Here you can see the manifold coming off the return line and over the sump. The first valve you see will be to feed the skimmer. Then there are two others in the middle that will be for reactors when they are needed. At the end (not pictured yet) will be a final valve that will feed the fuge at the end of the sump. The fuge is right around 30g's if I remember right:


Another of the Dart return pump and the return line coming off the skimmer:


I'm hoping to have water in it within 2 weeks for a leak check and full operational test of everything in the garage. I'll let it run for a couple of days and then break it down and bring it inside and set it up again.

The Litermeter will be doing continuous water changes from the garage. The lines will run through the attic and down the wall as my RODI and storage tanks are kept in the garage.

This will be replacing my 90g that I currently have set up and I can't wait to have this thing in the living room!!
 
Nice start, Ill be tagging along!
Look forward to seeing some more, what other equipment you plan on adding, as far as reactors?
 
And of course AFTER I did this plumbing I realized I left the valve out between the sump and return pump! LOL. This happened because I made a last minute change to how I was going to lay out the pump an skimmer and then got in a rush. Oh well. My simple solution if/when needed is to put that 2" plug into the bulkhead inside the sump to stop the water flow. Then I can open up the union and remove the pump for cleaning that way. It actually saved me some room of not having a huge 2" valve in the mix!
 
Any recommendations on the drains? It has two corner overflows, so a Bean Animal overflow won't happen.

I'm thinking dual Herbie's. Each overflow has two drain holes (not sure on size, I gotta measure the bulkheads). I'm thinking of doing a Herbie in each corner. Should I tie the Herbie's together right before the sump and regulate them off of one gate valve, or should I run the separate where they each have their own gate valve?

The second hole in each corner will be for emergency drains.

This is the LAST part the plumbing I need to figure out. Advice is helpful. Pros/cons of each way of doing the Herbie?
 
Just measured the drains. Each corner overflow has a 1" line and 1.5" line. Which should I use for the siphon and which for the emergency? The return pump is a Dart at 6ft of head pressure and it will also be running a manifold to supply my fuge and skimmer.
 
Well tonight I finished up all the plumbing with the exception of the drains. I'm still researching exactly how I want to do them...thoughts? How would you do it if this was YOUR tank?
 
I have the same size tank as you. Two external overflows with 2- 1.5" drains each. Each overflow has its own Herbie with 1" drain (reduced the 1.5") and 1.5" emergency. I have two sumps tied into each other so I did not tie my drain lines together. My return pump (WaveLine DC1200) is probably pushing 2200gph and my drains handle it easy. I'm guessing they are about 50% open. I have a 6' drop on the drain lines.
It takes a little time to balance the drains but its not to bad. Once they are set up, you can basically just adjust one drain and leave the other alone. Make sure you use Gate Valves for adjustments and not Ball Valves. I tried Ball Valves (had them and tried to save money) but I found making adjustments much easier with the Gates.
 
Sorry, I forgot to give opinion on single (tied together) or dual drains. I think one drain would probably be better for your setup since you only have one sump and it would easily handle the Dart. (especially if you drain 1.5") I would not tie in the emergency drains. I'm looking forward to seeing that skimmer in action too,,,nice.
 
that skimmer is bad this is going to be a great build I have a 300 and run a full siphon on mine and love it also if you haven't found a calcium reactor I am going to sell mine its new
 
Thanks for all the replies guys! I'm going with dual Herbies tied together on a single gate valve. Pics should follow soon!
 
As usual things go in spurts! A recent job change has kept me busy, but this is where I stand right now:

All plumbing except Herbie drains is complete. My goal is to get that done on Sunday and leak-test the entire system on Monday.

This morning I bought (2) Reefbreeder Photon 48's and (2) Jabeao WP-60's with the wavemaker on their group buy. Hoping they'll be here soon!

This afternoon at the LFS I was buying salt for my 90g and also picked up a used Reef Angel controller with wifi for $150! Excited to learn the Reef Angel and what it can do for me!

I recruited a friend who's a painter to do a distressed antique paint job on the stand and canopy as soon as I finish the plumbing, so that's covered now too. I'm hoping to have this thing in the house in the next 2 weeks filling with water and working on the aquascape!
 
Any recommendations on the drains? It has two corner overflows, so a Bean Animal overflow won't happen.

I'm thinking dual Herbie's. Each overflow has two drain holes (not sure on size, I gotta measure the bulkheads). I'm thinking of doing a Herbie in each corner. Should I tie the Herbie's together right before the sump and regulate them off of one gate valve, or should I run the separate where they each have their own gate valve?

The second hole in each corner will be for emergency drains.

This is the LAST part the plumbing I need to figure out. Advice is helpful. Pros/cons of each way of doing the Herbie?

I made a semi bean animal with mine and it works great. Two siphons, one from each overflow, combine right under the tank and the gate valve is at the end of the run. Then one overflow has the open channel and the other has the emergency. Works great.
 
I made a semi bean animal with mine and it works great. Two siphons, one from each overflow, combine right under the tank and the gate valve is at the end of the run. Then one overflow has the open channel and the other has the emergency. Works great.

I ended up going with the Herbie. Both siphons tie in together right at the sump. The lines are 1.5" and where they tie in together the line goes to 2" and through a gate valve. The emergency lines are 1" each and do not tie together.
 
Doing a test run of the system in the garage before I bring it in the house and for the life of me I cannot figure out why I'm getting bubbles in the dual herbie siphon line. It's been running for over 12 hours and there's still a stead stream of bubbles entering the sump from the main siphon line.

It's two 1.5" lines, one from each corner overflow, that travel 4ft horizontally (I know thats not preferred, but my only option) where they tee together into a 2" spears gate valve and down into the sump. The line stops about 1-1.5" under the waterline in the sump. The siphon tubes in the overflows are a solid 8" under the waterline and I cannot see any bubbles getting that far down where they would be sucked into the siphon.

I'm at a loss....any ideas?

If I can get this figured out then its time to drain it and move it into the house. The Photons should be shipping this coming week. Thats the last thing I need. Once it's moved into the house I can start filling and wrapping the stand in wood.
 
Try to break your drain lines down a piece at a time to find at what point are the bubbles being introduced.

There is nothing wrong with a horizontal run on your drains - in fact it is preferred for controlling noise and bubbles to have at least one or two 90°s on the way down.

Dave.M
 
Okay....I figured it out. Mostly.

I did not glue the last piece of 2" pvc that comes out of the 2" gate valve dropping into the sump. I originally did not glue it so that I could slip it out for whatever reason. I held my hand around it and instantly heard a difference, as a bulk of the noise was right there at the valve. So for a quick test, I wrapped it tightly with electrical tape to reduce the air it was sucking just to test. Now the bubbles are reduced DRASTICALLY and it is nearly dead silent!

I still don't want to glue this one piece, so I'll just pick up one last union to place right there so that I can pull the gate valve out in the future to clean it, and then it'll be good to go!

Thanks guys!!!
 
I agree. I have unions everywhere in this plumbing except right here. I'm headed to the the hardware store soon to grab a 2" slip union.
 
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