90 Gallon Plumbing

[swiftvision]

^^^^^ Hummmmm^^^

Pics Please ..

Well, if your going to challenge it...I've never even done a water change in 8 months (how old the tank is), and it's a mixed reef with SPS, and tons of nice fish. Only problems just started, GHA bloom and salt creep. Probably due to the lack of water changes....but my point is, it's a pretty bada$$ system.

I'm working on doing a full write up; everything is pretty much one off and in a tiny 30"x30" footprint:

 

[swiftvision]

After the cycle:

Yup there are (3) full size reactors back behind the CaRx:

 

[Ukreeferguy2020]

90 Gallon Plumbing

wow guys your making it to complicated for him...

Its Quite simple

I agree with swiftvision it is far from simple. Especially this bit. And even more so when you've done it the quick and easy way without thinking, bought cut glued and clipped all your piping in place to then find out it don't work because you need a BV here and a union there. I.e. If there is no BV restricting flow to the return then no water will circulate to the reactors. That's not good to find out AFTER it's all glued in place.

In theory it's simple, but most things are.


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[Ukreeferguy2020]

90 Gallon Plumbing

If you can though, get a couple more holes drilled and go for the bean animal method. Ultra quite. Ultra safe and ultra efficient. I would also add unions in every run of pipe just before or after a joint. That way when you take it all apart, you should have access to a straight length of pipe to push a long pipe brush into to push the cr@p out


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[ericarenee]

i agree with swiftvision it is far from simple. Especially this bit. And even more so when you've done it the quick and easy way without thinking, bought cut glued and clipped all your piping in place to then find out it don't work because you need a bv here and a union there. I.e. If there is no bv restricting flow to the return then no water will circulate to the reactors. That's not good to find out after it's all glued in place.

In theory it's simple, but most things are.


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ok....

 

[coral@life]

There is a lot to be said for redundancy. If you haven't put water in yet then I would setup the bean overflow but with one on each side of the tank 1 1/4" for each and bring two return lines up on either side of the tank 1" each so you can run two pumps for the return. if one fails you can still have flow going to the tank and believe me when I say return pumps fail! With two return pumps you can purchase lower flow more economical pumps instead of one big expensive one. Two heaters would be a good recommendation too along with two circulation pumps. Hope this helps.

 

[coral@life]

Here's a video on how to drill glass just in case you decide to go that route. It's fairly simple with the only catch being that you can't drill tempered glass so make sure yours is not tempered before even considering it. I think if your willing to buy the guide it would be very easy with almost no risk.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87yJbAW32hQ

 

[clevername]

I would plumb both of those two 1 inch as drains.

Turn one of them down with elbows inside the over flow box with a put a valve on it below the tank. The other pipe a few inches above the highest point on the elbow.. The second will be emergency drain the first one will be a full siphon . You adjust it be closing the valve to allow water to only trickle into the second drain.. Most quiet way to plumb over flow.


The return from the sump run over the top rim of the tank on opposite side of the tank. I would Also run this with 1 inch using a mag drive.. If you are going to run more then 1 thing Create a manifold using 1 inch pvc Sanitary T pipe then Valves after .

There are a lot of google images for how best to configure this

Good Luck..

Second this! I have a 1.25 inch running 1200GPH no problem. But its a full siphon. Youll be completely fine running 1inch and this "herbie overflow"