93 cube plumbing help/advice..?!?

RoachCity

New member
Ok so i'm about to have a year and a half with this EMPTY tank sitting on the stand in this corner. I finally have everything i need and its all up to me to hook it up. Just trying to make sure i do it all right the first time.

So here's where you guys come in. I plan to make a little manifold coming off the return side for if and when i decide to need any reactors.

In the first picture i have the return t-ing off to the manifold and then going straight up to the tank. with this option i have more room to work around my sump and i could add another valve and make the manifold have another outlet.

In picture #2 i have the return t-ing off to the manifold then another ball valve before it gets back to the tank. I've read this to be better because you can adjust the pressure going through the manifold by closing off the valve a bit and in case of any emergency or mtc can completely close off the return side. but it just makes things a little tighter around the sump.

Before i make anything permanent i would like you pros out there to give me your opinion.

thanks in advance
 

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If you add another valve to the left of the T you can shut off and work on the manifold without turning off the return pump. In picture number 2 you could also use a gate valve instead of the ball valve on the vertical run. Picture number 2 lets you adjust the flow into the tank which you need especially if you are using a durso style drain system.
 
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60 cube durso drain, valve to control flow from display to sump. Valve to control pump from sump to display. Went straight up and over to drilled holes in tank to leave myself room in the future for manifold. Had sicce 3.0 for display but it couldn't keep up if I had the drain valve all the way open. A mj1200 for chiller. I have now a sicce 5.0 forward display and moved the sicce 3.0 to the chiller and two fish 150 reactor BP. The MJ 1200 comes in handy mixing salt, water changes. Try to ignore the Mini Maxx it came out of my BioCube and kept it running till I got the 150 reactorIMG_20170117_182538175.jpgIMG_20170204_171246458.jpgIMG_20170118_150853425.jpg

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I like the idea of picture two much better. When running a manifold you will need more pressure that your return to the tank won't handle. If you run too much pressure the hole under the top 90 degree elbow to relieve the siphon if water backwashes in a power failure will shoot out way too fast and be very noisy. So adjusting the flow back to the tank is important to keep things quiet.
 
I always add a true union ball valve to my drain side but it's mostly there just for the union in case of sump/plumbing change in the future. My last tank had a leaky overflow box so when I pulled my sump it was nice to just close the drain valve and not worry about water leaking into my stand. So if not a ball valve on the drain, I'd at least add a union. I use my return to set the flow of the Durso like your #2 picture.
 
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