A couple questions about my 90g reef tank I'm starting

bks2100

New member
I got a good deal on craigslist so I'm starting up a 90g but I had a few questions.

I currently have a 9.5 utility pump which I figure gives me about 610 gph. It's about 100g total system volume so I'm just barely getting 6x, should I look into upgrading this, how much will it even matter? I will have two jebao pp8 in the tank so total system flow rate doesn't seem like an issue to me. I also have it hard plumbed in and got the instant lesson of why to use flexible hose on at least some of the return pump. Should I run the hose all the way to near the bulkhead or would just a 1.5' foot section making a slow 90 degree turn be fine? Also, what's the best way to hook up the hose to the pipe? The pump is 3/4" male threaded and the pipe going into the bulkhead is 1" pvc.

My overflow only has two holes, both 1" bulkheads. So my drain is a durso and I think they used 1.5" pipe (not at home for a couple days so I'll have to double check when I get back). I've read all the durso guides and it seems like 1.25" is the golden standard, should I switch it? I could replace the bulkhead and make a new durso for like 10 bucks but if it won't do anything then there's no point in spending the time picking up the fittings and messing with it. I've played with the air hole and gotten it to be quiet up top but the big issue is the drain into the sump. Since my tank is drilled on the bottom it basically just falls almost 4' straight into the sump. It came with a pvc hose that looks like pool hose with two male ends that slip over the 1" pvc perfectly and when I loop it around and put it in the perfect depth in the sump it just makes a bubbling noise but I'd still like to reduce it while also making it easy to replace the filter sock when needed (sump has a flat part over the filtersock with holes for hose). Could I glue some bends into the drain to slow down the water or are flexible hoses my solution?
 
Im using a 1300GPH pump for my 100 cube. I wouldn't go smaller and think I actually need a bit more. Its cranked at 100%.
 
I got a good deal on craigslist so I'm starting up a 90g but I had a few questions.

I currently have a 9.5 utility pump which I figure gives me about 610 gph. It's about 100g total system volume so I'm just barely getting 6x, should I look into upgrading this, how much will it even matter? I will have two jebao pp8 in the tank so total system flow rate doesn't seem like an issue to me. I also have it hard plumbed in and got the instant lesson of why to use flexible hose on at least some of the return pump. Should I run the hose all the way to near the bulkhead or would just a 1.5' foot section making a slow 90 degree turn be fine? Also, what's the best way to hook up the hose to the pipe? The pump is 3/4" male threaded and the pipe going into the bulkhead is 1" pvc.

My overflow only has two holes, both 1" bulkheads. So my drain is a durso and I think they used 1.5" pipe (not at home for a couple days so I'll have to double check when I get back). I've read all the durso guides and it seems like 1.25" is the golden standard, should I switch it? I could replace the bulkhead and make a new durso for like 10 bucks but if it won't do anything then there's no point in spending the time picking up the fittings and messing with it. I've played with the air hole and gotten it to be quiet up top but the big issue is the drain into the sump. Since my tank is drilled on the bottom it basically just falls almost 4' straight into the sump. It came with a pvc hose that looks like pool hose with two male ends that slip over the 1" pvc perfectly and when I loop it around and put it in the perfect depth in the sump it just makes a bubbling noise but I'd still like to reduce it while also making it easy to replace the filter sock when needed (sump has a flat part over the filtersock with holes for hose). Could I glue some bends into the drain to slow down the water or are flexible hoses my solution?

You can run a short piece of tube off the return pump then have it hard plumbed up to another short section of tub to connect to the tank bulkhead. This can be tricky to find all the proper fittings without reducing at least part of the line to 1".

Straight nylon tube isn't bad either, it's been used for years. Hard plumbing adds the options of ball/gate valves and splitting off the line for reactors or other equipment.

As far as a return pump and flow, get a pump rated for more gph than your goal. This way your not running the pump at 100% all the time. Figure in the head pressure using a search. If you've got excellent flow in the DT (which 2 PP-8's will give you) don't go crazy trying for 10x turnover with the return pump.

Slowing down the water getting into the sump could back up causing the return pump to drain the sump water too quickly. For this reason get a DC return pump so you can regulate to get a balance between how much water is entering and exiting the sump. Too much going in and the return pump can't sent it back to the DT and you'll flood the sump. If the return pump is pumping out at a rate greater than can enter the sump and vice versa, you'll drain the sump dry.

FWIW I've got a 90g and running a DC pump rated at 2300 gph @ roughly 60%. With head pressure and a ball valve to regulate I know I'm no where near 1200gph. But I've got a balance between the DT and sump water levels, i.e. same input/output.
 
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You can run a short piece of tube off the return pump then have it hard plumbed up to another short section of tub to connect to the tank bulkhead. This can be tricky to find all the proper fittings without reducing at least part of the line to 1".

Straight nylon tube isn't bad either, it's been used for years. Hard plumbing adds the options of ball/gate valves and splitting off the line for reactors or other equipment.

As far as a return pump and flow, get a pump rated for more gph than your goal. This way your not running the pump at 100% all the time. Figure in the head pressure using a search. If you've got excellent flow in the DT (which 2 PP-8's will give you) don't go crazy trying for 10x turnover with the return pump.

Slowing down the water getting into the sump could back up causing the return pump to drain the sump water too quickly. For this reason get a DC return pump so you can regulate to get a balance between how much water is entering and exiting the sump. Too much going in and the return pump can't sent it back to the DT and you'll flood the sump. If the return pump is pumping out at a rate greater than can enter the sump and vice versa, you'll drain the sump dry.

FWIW I've got a 90g and running a DC pump rated at 2300 gph @ roughly 60%. With head pressure and a ball valve to regulate I know I'm no where near 1200gph. But I've got a balance between the DT and sump water levels, i.e. same input/output.

I wouldn't have to reduce down to 1" since the output on the pump is 3/4. I do have a ball valve (I know gates are better but I wanted to get it up and running, so I can deal with some headaches and issues adjusting it and replace it later) but since the flow is on the lower end of the 6-10x rule I don't slow it down right now at all.

With my pump I've seen that it does 600gph at 8' head. I have 3 elbows right now with all hard plumbing and about 3' of horizontal and 4' vertical. So I figure I'm right around 6x turn rate on the system. With what you use and what I've seen most people use it seems like I have the minimum I need, so I'm starting to think it's "fine" now but something to upgrade later down the road. I've been drooling over the vectras but I figure that $350 will get me some stuff that will help me a lot more than a little more flow, but since I'm new I figure I could be wrong.

Something I was thinking about last night though could fix a lot of my drain sound issues. I have two holes drilled in the overflow, so I could take the return pump off and set it up as another drain and that way I could do a herbie and have it really quiet with no bubbles. Then the return I could plumb behind the tank and then have the return nozzles come over the back of the tank, which would also give me the flexibility to have more nozzles along with position them along the back wall as opposed to two coming out right by the overflow. Would this work or am I missing something?
 
Two drains internally and a return coming over the back of the DT would work. In this case you would get much more gph through the sump. That might take some modification to the sump to take the additional drain line, however the benefit is definitely worth the effort.

Adding the extra flexibility for returns and positions is a plus.
 
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