hberickson
New member
Sounds great to me!! I know I emailed them about a custom crew and I like what they sent back. Also seems to be great prices!
A couple questions before beginning.
- Thread starter hberickson
- Start date
MrTuskfish
Team RC
You really need a QT and the resolve to always use it.
hberickson
New member
I plan on running a qt with a separate tank that I have. I want to make sure I do this right so I don't have any large problems in the future.
oscarinw
New member
Hi!
I didn't read all of the replies so hopefully some of this is not repetitive or contradictory. Here your answers:
1. Depends on the type of rock. You should be safe with anything that's highly porous although it might be too much of the best kind of rock
2. Completely depends on what you want to accomplish. You can go bare bottom for even a reef tank but you will need sand if you want some inhabitants i.e. nassarius snails, some wrasses, some hermits, some gobies. I like a deeper sand bed for it's de-nitrifying properties and to be able to keep sand friendly individuals
3. I route them behind my overflow box but you can also use an inconspicuous pipe or cable ties or simply scotch tape (or even paint) a background to your tank.
4. For water changes, the most you can comfortably do, the better. I'd recommend 20% biweekly but really depends on your bioloads and your dosing/filtering. Best way for me (100 gal system) is 2 20 gal rubbermaid brute tote with a separate pump. Fill one up with fresh RO/DI mix, stir and heat overnight and then fill the 2nd one with tank water with hose/siphon and then replace with the new water via pump.
5. Really depends on your setup. Check for manufacturers suggestions for height and room and you should be fine any way.
6. I don't like cucs because they're a risk if they die... I go the slow regular way and once cycled, add a hermit, a week later, my smallest hardiest inhabitant and so on...
7. Can never go wrong with clowns. I have 3 reef safe male wrasses, one hippo tang and 4 ocellaris (2 black, 2 orange). They all get along really well.
8. You're very welcome. Please send me pictures of your progress if you don't mind.
Good luck with things!
I didn't read all of the replies so hopefully some of this is not repetitive or contradictory. Here your answers:
1. Depends on the type of rock. You should be safe with anything that's highly porous although it might be too much of the best kind of rock
2. Completely depends on what you want to accomplish. You can go bare bottom for even a reef tank but you will need sand if you want some inhabitants i.e. nassarius snails, some wrasses, some hermits, some gobies. I like a deeper sand bed for it's de-nitrifying properties and to be able to keep sand friendly individuals
3. I route them behind my overflow box but you can also use an inconspicuous pipe or cable ties or simply scotch tape (or even paint) a background to your tank.
4. For water changes, the most you can comfortably do, the better. I'd recommend 20% biweekly but really depends on your bioloads and your dosing/filtering. Best way for me (100 gal system) is 2 20 gal rubbermaid brute tote with a separate pump. Fill one up with fresh RO/DI mix, stir and heat overnight and then fill the 2nd one with tank water with hose/siphon and then replace with the new water via pump.
5. Really depends on your setup. Check for manufacturers suggestions for height and room and you should be fine any way.
6. I don't like cucs because they're a risk if they die... I go the slow regular way and once cycled, add a hermit, a week later, my smallest hardiest inhabitant and so on...
7. Can never go wrong with clowns. I have 3 reef safe male wrasses, one hippo tang and 4 ocellaris (2 black, 2 orange). They all get along really well.
8. You're very welcome. Please send me pictures of your progress if you don't mind.
Good luck with things!
hberickson
New member
Oscarinw, thanks for the reply! I will surely post pics of my progress here within a couple weeks!
