A few DIY sump baffle questions

[McPuff]

I have a 60 gal sump (48 x 18 x 16H) that does not have any compartments but I'd like to make a bubble trap and thereby create a drain/skimmer compartment. I also plan to place a single small "baffle" next to the return to separate it in a manner of speaking. Finding and cutting the glass is easy and I know it's best to have 1/4" room to spare (1/8" each side). My question is whether or not I should have the corners beveled? Because the bottom corner of the sump has a silicone bead, I'm afraid that a 90 deg corner will not allow for a great fit for the baffle along the bottom on the sump. Is this a non-issue? I suppose that the glass cutter will slightly bevel all edges anyway so maybe that is sufficient?

Further, because I will modify my current sump to include baffles, I will need to shut off the sump itself, drain, clean, and then add the baffles. I want to minimize the time I am left without a functional sump so how long should I wait before hooking everything back up to the display? I was planning for one day as it does not take too long for silicone to cure. I'm thinking that any acetic acid that leaches after the day-cure should not be plentiful enough to cause any harm. Let me know what you think.

I appreciate any input. Thanks!

 

[ThisGuy12]

Depends on the silicone, the bottle may say 1 day to "cure" but what does the word "cure" mean? Solidify? Sure 1 day would work. Become non toxic and safe for fish? 1 day is nowhere near enough. Even the products designed for aquariums I wouldn't put water in it for any less than 3 days of curing time.

If you use GE Silicone 1, I would allow for a week of curing time.

I guess you could speed up curing time by placing regular tap water in the tank and allowing the silicone to leech into that before hooking it up into the salt water.

I would bevel/smooth any edges exposed to water flow this will help reduce bubbles and create a constant flow. Where the glass meets the bottom doesn't need to be beveled but it does need to be smooth enough to sit flat.

 

[McPuff]

I guess you could speed up curing time by placing regular tap water in the tank and allowing the silicone to leech into that before hooking it up into the salt water.

I would bevel/smooth any edges exposed to water flow this will help reduce bubbles and create a constant flow. Where the glass meets the bottom doesn't need to be beveled but it does need to be smooth enough to sit flat.

Good idea with respect to the silicone. I will plan to use aquarium seal as that seems a more appropriate choice. Perhaps I will give it a few days. The lack of sump should not be an issue for that amount of time.

As for the glass, I was planning to simply have all edges beveled/smoothed just so they are not sharp. Sounds like I am on the right track there. Thanks!