A few general questions
- Thread starter Mstark11
- Start date
mitchellmoto
Member
Well you can not put it in by its self. It would have to be epoxied to prevent the saltwater from reaching the magnet. The magnet will rust and leach chemicals into the water.
The brand "Algae Free" has a sure grip magnetic mount. cost is under $30. You can find it at marine depot or Dr foster and smith. If you have the standard maxi jet power head, you should check out their maxi jet upgrade kit it comes with the magnetic mount and a propeller end that will increase you output drastically. If you have the maxi jet pro which has the two configurations just get the magnet mount.
You can also just make your own and you can find a few dozen threads and/or videos on how to do it.
The brand "Algae Free" has a sure grip magnetic mount. cost is under $30. You can find it at marine depot or Dr foster and smith. If you have the standard maxi jet power head, you should check out their maxi jet upgrade kit it comes with the magnetic mount and a propeller end that will increase you output drastically. If you have the maxi jet pro which has the two configurations just get the magnet mount.
You can also just make your own and you can find a few dozen threads and/or videos on how to do it.
Mstark11
New member
Ok, I'm slightly concerned again.
It's day 10 on the cycle and my parameters look like this:
Phosphates: 0
Nitrates: 0
Ammonia: 0.15
Nitrites:0
The ammonia going down to 0.15 was a huge improvement since it never dropped below 0.25 since Day 1.
Now, I'm slightly concerned because It's all 0 on day 10. Should I consider it cycled, and dose for ammonia, or should I be skeptical and keep checking it every morning?
It's been on a pretty good schedule. Turn on T-10, check parameters at 10am. Turn off T-10 at 10pm, dose with Kent purple tech, turn on Lunar light. The single bright I got has lunar lights which makes me happy
I don't feel so bad for wasting 60$.
I won't be purchasing a fish to put in it, even if it is cycled, until the beginning of this month. I'll probably pick up a one-spot fox face and a protein skimmer. Also, at what point should I do my first water change? You suggested 10% weekly will that be enough for a first water change or should I do more?
It's day 10 on the cycle and my parameters look like this:
Phosphates: 0
Nitrates: 0
Ammonia: 0.15
Nitrites:0
The ammonia going down to 0.15 was a huge improvement since it never dropped below 0.25 since Day 1.
Now, I'm slightly concerned because It's all 0 on day 10. Should I consider it cycled, and dose for ammonia, or should I be skeptical and keep checking it every morning?
It's been on a pretty good schedule. Turn on T-10, check parameters at 10am. Turn off T-10 at 10pm, dose with Kent purple tech, turn on Lunar light. The single bright I got has lunar lights which makes me happy
I don't feel so bad for wasting 60$.I won't be purchasing a fish to put in it, even if it is cycled, until the beginning of this month. I'll probably pick up a one-spot fox face and a protein skimmer. Also, at what point should I do my first water change? You suggested 10% weekly will that be enough for a first water change or should I do more?
mitchellmoto
Member
Wait unless your nitrite has spiked it isn't over. You are going to also see alot more brown algae as well. To cut down on this reduce your lighting schedule and add cheato if you can get your hands on some.
I can't imagine it being over in ten days. People have been setting up tanks for a awhile and around a month is a good estimate. As far as doing a water change during your cycle it is another heated debate. Some people say doing so can prolong the cycle process others say yes to help reduce toxins in the water.
I personally do water changes during the cycle but not weekly, more random. 10% should be fine. After the cycle has finished I do larger water change before I add any fish.
You could probably hold off on testing daily, every few days should fine. More doesn't hurt and some people use the data to graph their progress. Thats more work than I want to mess with.
Also you mentioned turning on a t-10. Is this your lighting? If so do you mean t-5? There of course are such things as t10 fluorescent lights but not typically used in aquarium lighting.
T5HO is the new norm in aquarium lighting.
I always like fox face and rabbit fish you should check out the different varieties rather than the standard. Also make sure to keep it well fed to possibly prevent any nipping of LPS or softies.
Later
Mitch
I can't imagine it being over in ten days. People have been setting up tanks for a awhile and around a month is a good estimate. As far as doing a water change during your cycle it is another heated debate. Some people say doing so can prolong the cycle process others say yes to help reduce toxins in the water.
I personally do water changes during the cycle but not weekly, more random. 10% should be fine. After the cycle has finished I do larger water change before I add any fish.
You could probably hold off on testing daily, every few days should fine. More doesn't hurt and some people use the data to graph their progress. Thats more work than I want to mess with.
Also you mentioned turning on a t-10. Is this your lighting? If so do you mean t-5? There of course are such things as t10 fluorescent lights but not typically used in aquarium lighting.
T5HO is the new norm in aquarium lighting.
I always like fox face and rabbit fish you should check out the different varieties rather than the standard. Also make sure to keep it well fed to possibly prevent any nipping of LPS or softies.
Later
Mitch
Mstark11
New member
http://www.aquariumguys.com/quantum.html
That's what the light is.
And I don't mind testing every day. Gives me something to look forward to in the morning
Plus I'm in Chemistry right now over the summer, and I'm doing my presentation on the nitrogen cycle. I'll call Ray maybe later today and see if he has some Cheato, if not I might be able to order it but I'm out of the house from 12-6 usually mon-thursday and who knows when the delivery guy will show up.
That's what the light is.
And I don't mind testing every day. Gives me something to look forward to in the morning
Plus I'm in Chemistry right now over the summer, and I'm doing my presentation on the nitrogen cycle. I'll call Ray maybe later today and see if he has some Cheato, if not I might be able to order it but I'm out of the house from 12-6 usually mon-thursday and who knows when the delivery guy will show up.
mitchellmoto
Member
I have never seen Ray have any cheato. Ordering should be fine as it will not need to be shipped over night.
I would like to mention that the light you have will not be enough for coral. It is perfectly fine for fish but I do not believe it will be powerful enough for coral. Not saying it will be totally useless,as you may be able to use it for supplimental lighting if you can find the proper bulbs but won't be enough on their own.
I would like to mention that the light you have will not be enough for coral. It is perfectly fine for fish but I do not believe it will be powerful enough for coral. Not saying it will be totally useless,as you may be able to use it for supplimental lighting if you can find the proper bulbs but won't be enough on their own.
Mstark11
New member
Well, would I be able to use the single-bright LED and the T-10 together for hardy, low/med light polys, or maybe like a candy cane coral? I can fit both of the lights on the top of the tank. Or Maybe an anemone since I've heard they are notorious for making themselves comfortable regardless of where you put them.
I don't necessarily want/need an anemone, I would just like to give my clowns something to host. Would there be anything easier or hardier with lower light? Like maybe a Lordhowensis Coral?
I don't necessarily want/need an anemone, I would just like to give my clowns something to host. Would there be anything easier or hardier with lower light? Like maybe a Lordhowensis Coral?
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mitchellmoto
Member
If you are talking about the Marineland single bright LED I'd probably have to say no. There may be some mushrooms that might work but I'm really doubting it. Sorry! I hate to tell you after the fact. I wish I had know you were looking to purchase your lighting so soon I could have guided you in a better direction. The problem with those lights is they just don't have the penetrating power to reach down into the water and provide the proper amount of light for the coral to thrive. I would assume if you did add coral to your current lighting that the coral would last a little while but would eventually wither away.
Anemones usually need high light.You can sometimes feed extra to help with lower lighting but your lighting would be too low. They do move all around and usually find a place that makes them happy and they will sit for awhile but in the end they will continue to move around eventually.
Lighting is usually a pretty expensive purchase. I can probably help you find the right lighting when you are ready. You can save loads once again if you are willing to build your lighting. You can buy retrofit kits and build it into a self made hood. Not very hard.
There are VHO, compact fluorescents, T5HO, Metal Halide, and LEDs
VHO and compacts are really on the way out and are not as widely used as they use to be. The three typical for today are the T5HO, halides and LEDs
LEDs are the most expensive of the three but save you cash in the long run as they do not require bulb replacements like the other two. I personally have a fondness for Halides but I have T5HO on my nano, and LED/halides on my frag tanks.
If you want some help let me know I can throw a couple options your way. We can work with cash limits if you are willing to build as you have built your own.
Also keep in mind if you don't end up using your current lighting you can probably sell it to someone with a fish tank.
Later
Mitch
Anemones usually need high light.You can sometimes feed extra to help with lower lighting but your lighting would be too low. They do move all around and usually find a place that makes them happy and they will sit for awhile but in the end they will continue to move around eventually.
Lighting is usually a pretty expensive purchase. I can probably help you find the right lighting when you are ready. You can save loads once again if you are willing to build your lighting. You can buy retrofit kits and build it into a self made hood. Not very hard.
There are VHO, compact fluorescents, T5HO, Metal Halide, and LEDs
VHO and compacts are really on the way out and are not as widely used as they use to be. The three typical for today are the T5HO, halides and LEDs
LEDs are the most expensive of the three but save you cash in the long run as they do not require bulb replacements like the other two. I personally have a fondness for Halides but I have T5HO on my nano, and LED/halides on my frag tanks.
If you want some help let me know I can throw a couple options your way. We can work with cash limits if you are willing to build as you have built your own.
Also keep in mind if you don't end up using your current lighting you can probably sell it to someone with a fish tank.
Later
Mitch
Mstark11
New member
I'm still looking good.
Phosphates: 0
Nitrate:0
Nitrite:0
High Range PH: 8.2
Calcium: 400
Carbonate Hardness: 161
But that dang ammonia ): Still at 0.15-0.25. I'll try doing 10% water changes daily. I changed the water a few days ago to see if that would help and it hasn't moved. I can't figure out where the ammonia is coming from. Drives me nuts!
Phosphates: 0
Nitrate:0
Nitrite:0
High Range PH: 8.2
Calcium: 400
Carbonate Hardness: 161
But that dang ammonia ): Still at 0.15-0.25. I'll try doing 10% water changes daily. I changed the water a few days ago to see if that would help and it hasn't moved. I can't figure out where the ammonia is coming from. Drives me nuts!
Mstark11
New member
Ok, well I'm either doing much better, or much much worse.
Woke up, water was a little opaque but not bad.
ammonia around 0.8
nitrate: 2
nitrite: around 0.25
I've been getting some colorful algae everywhere, mostly browns and red. Some of my dry rocks are seeding with oranges and reds and it looks nice.
But when I came home, the tank had clouded up substantially and so i tried to test my parameters again to see if anything changed, and most of the stuff doubled up.
ammonia is right around 1
nitrate is around 10
nitrite around 0.5
I've also got a big red patch on the front that seemed to show up while I was out of the house for 3 or 4 hours.
Woke up, water was a little opaque but not bad.
ammonia around 0.8
nitrate: 2
nitrite: around 0.25
I've been getting some colorful algae everywhere, mostly browns and red. Some of my dry rocks are seeding with oranges and reds and it looks nice.
But when I came home, the tank had clouded up substantially and so i tried to test my parameters again to see if anything changed, and most of the stuff doubled up.
ammonia is right around 1
nitrate is around 10
nitrite around 0.5
I've also got a big red patch on the front that seemed to show up while I was out of the house for 3 or 4 hours.
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mitchellmoto
Member
Did the sand get kick up again. That is what it appears but your water certainly shouldn't be that cloudy. Stirring up the sand can cause problem with your parameters. I'm not sure how to explain it but for example if your anaerobic bacteria gets exposed to high levels of oxygen they can die. When this happens not only are they not doing their job but they may release something into the water column. I'm sure that is overly simplified but hopefully you get the idea.
The algae is the norm during the cycle and reducing the lighting period can help combat it but it is inevitable.
The algae is the norm during the cycle and reducing the lighting period can help combat it but it is inevitable.
Mstark11
New member
I thought it might have been the sand, because I was cleaning off the substrate from the rocks (which are seeding, YAY!! that really excites me!) 2 or 3 days ago and it just has not cleared up since then. I figured maybe I'd gotten some sort of small algae bloom because of all the algae growing out of nowhere.
mitchellmoto
Member
Algae need light to grow so kill the light if you are getting a bloom. Doing a water change may help? It may be just a wait and be pateint moment, just wait for everything to settle down but a water change couldn't hurt.
Mstark11
New member
I usually try to leave it alone. Except for the red algae on the front.. That I picked at a little. I'm also having trouble not scraping the diatoms off the glass on the back. My tank was always so spotless before that ):
And I got the base rock and sand from http://www.marcorocks.com/. 40lb key largo rock, 40lb aragonite sand for $120 so I was pretty happy. The live rock I got from Fish and Phipps in town.
And I got the base rock and sand from http://www.marcorocks.com/. 40lb key largo rock, 40lb aragonite sand for $120 so I was pretty happy. The live rock I got from Fish and Phipps in town.
mitchellmoto
Member
Glenn is right on the button. First priority would be to secure that powerhead so it won't fall again. I'm not sure if you have purchased your skimmer yet but a skimmer may help to pull the floating debris out of the water column.
I also noticed you reached the 50 post mark now after 90 day of registration you will be able to view the for sale/ trade/ WTB section and can find some great deals.
I also noticed you reached the 50 post mark now after 90 day of registration you will be able to view the for sale/ trade/ WTB section and can find some great deals.
Marco rocks looks great. I would def get something on that ph. SCA makes a cheap and affordable skimmer. Read great reviews on them. Check that out. If you have the money get some koralia evolutions. Dont have to worry about ph falling ever. There is better phs out there but sounds like you want to save mmoney=)
