A ? for large tank builders.

[tkeracer619]

I want to build a 10' x 10' x 3'H tank. I have been going back and forth on the construction but know that I want glass viewing panes. I'm not really sure I want to go with plywood or concrete construction. I would really rather the tank be 100% glass.

How do you get a 10'x10' pane of glass for the bottom?? Can you construct it out of (3) 10'x3'4" panes and glue them together with a high strength silicone then laminate the seams with the same thickness glass?

How does that work? This is a few years out so I have plenty of time to get it all sorted out but this has been bugging me now for a few months... :hmm4:

 

[stlouisguy]

why would you put glass on the bottom? Use acrylic or wood just rocks and sand will be over it.

 

[tkeracer619]

What would you use to adhere the glass to acrylic or alternatively to pvc? My reasoning was longevity. Tank needs to last a very long time.

 

[dahenley]

DAS tanks are multi piece bottom glass tanks.
many large tanks use silicone and but joint glass together, and some even put a piece of glass over the top to ensure no leaks.
easily done.

your problem will be the 10" lengths and bracing.

David Saxby and another person from D&D has a tank and used SS cables or rods to prevent any bowing.


Moser (he has a build on ultimate reef or something like that)
has a 6X8X3' tank and it has a multi piece bottom. and shows the builders that installed it. if you want to do a google search)

 

[dahenley]

its page 11 of his build. (fyi)

here is a tank of mine. (i forgot to mention that i am re-sealing this tank. it was basically free to me!)

here is the bottom

no problems!

and here is my 8" 240
it has 3pieces of glass as the bottom

here it is currently 3 years later. (this is a 3rd hand tank, and still running strong!)

(mo's tank is a little over done with a double layer of glass, but if your putting that much time and money in a tank, whats a little more for insurance. )

 

[tkeracer619]

Thanks for the response. Ill check out that thread and do a little design work

I was planning on some serious eurobracing but will make sure to do some stress analysis at work and see what safety factors im dealing with. If I have to do a steel brace I can do that too. I would really like to keep the middle open though.

 

[discus510]

r u planning on using 4" thick glass?? sounds like this is going to be a 300K plus build

 

[jjk_reef00]

How do you plan on getting into the middle of your 10' tank? Are you literally going to walk / swim in your tank?

 

[viggen]

why not acrylic or concrete + glass or acrylic? Just wondering..... a friend has been working on a 20x10x5ft tank..... they made the tank in the house. Nice little shark tank

 

[tkeracer619]

r u planning on using 4" thick glass?? sounds like this is going to be a 300K plus build

No. There should be no reason to do that. Its only 36" high. What experience do you have with systems this size and can you give some reasons for 4" glass. Yes the build is not going to be cheap. I am aware of that.

How do you plan on getting into the middle of your 10' tank? Are you literally going to walk / swim in your tank?

Short answer is Yes but when I need to frag stuff the FS thread will be alone these lines " If you come cut them yourself they are 1/2 price! " :lol:

why not acrylic or concrete + glass or acrylic? Just wondering..... a friend has been working on a 20x10x5ft tank..... they made the tank in the house. Nice little shark tank

Its not ruled out yet. I know some concrete people that could do it properly. It would add some complexities to the tank and I am not sure I want to deal with epoxies and fiberglass.

 

[dahenley]

have you googled "Oregon reef"
check it out. his tank isnt up any longer, but it is nice and gives tons of cool ideas and insites on things. (although, it is an acrylic tank....)

just thought i would throw that out there)

 

[tkeracer619]

I'll check it out.

Maybe I'll hook one of these up and suspend myself above the tank upsidown . I could probably get the one from work cheap since we are looking to replace it anyways...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CoA-m5iHG9s

Edit: Yup I remember that now. Incredible tank with a very sad story. One thing I plan on doing is running a large colony backup system that is separate from the display. I already have the acrylic for them (2) 7'x3'x16"H. Mother colonies will be grown in these systems and placed in the display after they have grown to a decent size / been duplicated. Livestock from my current tank will go into these until the display is ready. Long term the 360 will be used as a holding system for already quarantined fish to give them a place to get fat.

 

[dave willmore]

tkeracer619, I'm giving you a late answer but thought I'd put in my two cents. Being from a construction background I highly recommend concrete or epoxy to be more bulletproof than glass or acrylic for longevity. I cringe to think how a falling rock or stress fracture would hurt acrylic or glass bottom tanks.

First a couple of tips on concrete. Use a 6" x 6" 10 gauge wire for reinforcing, it is very cheap and available in flat sheets which keep it from curling up or down during your concrete pour. Make concrete 2" thick to be safe. And all concrete has small shrinkage cracks, so use several layers of parge or grout over the initial concrete. Each layer will seal the cracks of the layer below it until it is waterproof.

I built my 4,000 gallon tank from concrete board and epoxy and it has been quite easy. My first layer of bottom was cement board, followed by fiberglass reinforced panel, followed by 18 oz cloth, followed by 5 oz finish cloth. You could make the bottom of the tank in just a couple of days and couldn't break it with a sledgehammer. I used West system 501 epoxy. 5 gallons of epoxy will cost you $120 or so but should do your 100 square feet of tank bottom with plenty to spare.

Let me know when you start.

 

[tkeracer619]

Let me know when you start.

You will regret that statement one day :lmao: