A Gentle Reminder about Electricity and Marine Aquariums

My outlets are GFCI protected and the OP stated theirs was as well but it didn't trip. I guess what I was looking to do was conduct a random check on the tank for stray voltage (a sign of something going bad) based upon a normal/base/known operating stray voltage.

A GFCI wont trip until some of the current within the system 'disappears'. IE; The OP caused this to happen by GETTING shocked, he diverted the current. The GFCI either didn't trip cause its faulty, or didn't trip because the period of time that the current was diverted for, or the amount of current diverted, wasn't sufficient to trip.


I recently built a GFCI box for my reef system, and I'd stand by it. Its not a smart idea to start sticking meters into the tank without a strong understanding of what you are doing.
 
There is no need to put a multimeter in your tank to measure ever..
Simply ensure all line powered submerged equipment is protected by a GFCI that is routinely tested for proper operation and never look back.. Don't do that and well you are risking shock and possible electrocution and may win the Darwin award and probably shouldn't reproduce either :) .. (That comment is not directed at anyone in particular so relax mods... no need for an infraction..)

You can pick up a GFCI device for under $20 and they are available as power strips or outlets or even the breaker for the whole circuit..

If you don't know what to buy please contact me and I will happily send you a link to them.... In fact here..https://www.homedepot.com/p/Tower-M...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CLKjjtj9hNgCFXjI4wcdbmgLaw
There are many more..

The advice to use a meter has caused more confusion than anything else IMO..
The impedance of todays meters is all over the place and they act as fantastic antenna that will register voltage just walking around your house holding them up in the air..

I agree with all that you said, but would caution that the GFCI linked is 15 amp. That will probably work in most (90%+) cases but with high watt equipment (MH lights) and depending what else is on the circuit I like to use a 20 amp GFCI and have the tank on a 20 amp circuit. My sump room is also on 20 amp.
 
My outlets are GFCI protected and the OP stated theirs was as well but it didn't trip.

The point of the GFCI is to prevent death by electrocution. The OP got a nasty shock but is apparently otherwise unhurt, which rather strongly implies the current which wasn't enough to trip the GFCI also wasn't enough to kill him.
 
I agree with all that you said, but would caution that the GFCI linked is 15 amp. That will probably work in most (90%+) cases but with high watt equipment (MH lights) and depending what else is on the circuit I like to use a 20 amp GFCI and have the tank on a 20 amp circuit. My sump room is also on 20 amp.

Yes.. Thanks.. "Most" people have a 15 Amp circuit as you stated but you do make a good point that all electrical equipment shall be rated appropriately..
 
Bill, I am so glad you are fine after that experience. I had a similiar experience and now ALWAYS wear shoes in my fishroom. My boys get irritated with me when I make them put on shoes to help me, but too bad.
 
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