So, I didn't get a bunch of HUGE advancements done this weekend. But some things were definitely accomplished.
First and foremost was getting our Purple Firefish down to Hyposalinity (1.009 sg). We did see a bit of a re-cycle during the transition down to hypo. So I was glad we had pre-made some 1.009 saltwater that we were able to use as a water change later in the weekend after we got it stable at the correct levels. I am planning on re-checking the PH/NH3/No2/No3 tonight. I am guessing we will need 1 more water change still after dropping to hypo.
The little purple dude (or dudette) was surviving as of this morning. I was a little worried about it on Sunday. But after the lights were on for awhile and we did the water change, it was back to being happy and swimming around. Oddly enough before hypo, we hadn't been able to observe any signs of it being sick. But once we were at hypo for 24 hours, we did notice some things that didn't look "right." So I think we're glad we're attempt the treatment now, even if it means it will take longer to get into the DT now
I'll try to take some decent photos of what I'm saying didn't look "right." But I can't guarantee my phone camera will be able to catch it.
Another thing we did this weekend was to try relocating the Ricordea Mushrooms. Since the Orange Ric wasn't looking so good, we decided to try placing it in a MUCH more shaded area for the time to see how it responds. It is now on the far left hand side of the tank and is located about 1/4 or so of the way up the tower, on the outside edge of the tank under an overhang. It is still viewable from the front left corner, but sitting in our recliner, you can get a great up close view through the side of the tank.
- A close up through the left side panel of the tank -
- Let's hope the lower light and a bit of target feeding might help it start to bounce back!
- Still through the left side tank glass, pulled back a bit to see the shrooms new placement. And my shrimp REALLY wanted to know what I'm up to over here... -
- I kind of screwed up this pic. It's tough to see the Orange Rics placement because the shadows are so dark. But it's sitting in the shadow between the 1st and 2nd overhang. About 1/3rd of the way up the photo -
- Another photo that is not one of my best. But we relocated the Yellow/Green Ric as well. We moved it down about 3 or 4 inches from a ledge perch to the bottom/front of the rocks in front of the overflow. A few inches above the current drifted sandbed line in the center of this pic -
- I was worried we would want to place a different type of plating or branching coral where we had originally placed the Yellow/Green Ric. So I'm hoping it likes the location down low and front center. Maybe in time I can have a few different Rics beneath some grown out corals off the top!
Other than that, I ran out and grabbed a few plumbing pieces to work on the ATO barrel. I was able to get that all attached and filled about 1/2 full. Only to find that there is a small leak around the threaded pvc fitting screwed into the bulkhead. It looks like I'll need to drain the barrel and add a little more pvc plumbing tape to stop any water seeping between the threads. I must not have waited long enough with my 1/4 barrel full leak test for it to seep through.
Now I need to determine where to put this float valve into the sump for the ATO. Here's a situation those with more experience might be able to chime in on... I only want to drilly my sump once, and I want to do it in the right spot the first time. 1.) what level of water in my sump 2.) Where to put the float valve.
Here is a photo I grabbed off the internet of my sump for reference: Ecosystem Pro 3612:
I'm running my heaters and protein skimmer currently in the center section of this sump. I'm also drawing water from the center section with a Fluval 305 canister filter and pumping it up to my remote 75 gallon refugium.
The 1st section is open as a drain chamber. The protein skimmer can fit in the drain chamber, BARELY. If I want to run it in there.
I need to maintain a 9.5 inch to 11 inch water level in order for the Bubble Magus Nac6 to do it's thing properly. In order to run the water that deep for proper skimmer function, the sump water level needs to be raised up about 2-3 inches above the 1st baffle overflow that leads into the return section.
This level is where I've been running my system since starting it. And there is more then enough room to handle the flow back during a simulated power outage.
I know that typically the float switch/valve is in the return chamber, and I understand why. But in my application running the level high enough for the skimmer, I've notice that my water level is the same across all 3 chambers of my sump when everything is running. As water evaporates it lowers over all 3 sections of the sump until it begins to cascade and flow/drop over the baffle into the return section. Then the level acts as everyone would expect. The return chambers lowers until it is empty.
I was thinking of mounting my float valve through the acrylic divider between sections 1 and 2 of the sump at the correct height. This would allow me to mount the valve without drilling through the exterior of the sump, at the correct height, and have an easy/direct approach to run my 1/4 inch tubing from the ATO container to the back of the float valve.
- Is there any reason why filling my sump to this level (2 or 3 inches above the 1st bubble trap baffle to return chamber) would be a bad thing or cause problems?
- Any reason that putting my float valve in the center section instead of the return chamber would be an issue?
- If I eventually try to run kalk in my ato, do I want drip post skimming? Or is the skimmer any issue or concern when dripping kalk (if I do). For now it will be straight Ro/Di until I feel the need to supplement Alk and Ca. But I'm trying to plan best for the future.
- And let me know if I missed something else or there are any better ideas out there. I would really love to get this leak stopped and the ATO barrel plumbed into the system. At this point, I really just need to figure out the float valve placement and I should be good to go. Fixing the leak will be easy once I drain the barrel for a few minutes. :thumbsup:
And I was thinking about it more. I guess a 10-20 gallon water change is a pretty small % of the overall system to see any big changes. Really, I should maybe try a 35 gallon change and see how that effects the system. Because that would be closer to a 20% change. And the tests have shown the levels slightly increase each water change.
:beer:
And that's a somewhat small addition. Nothing we need to break the bank on.
