Plumbing Phase
Plumbing Phase
Now that you've seen how I built my stand and canopy, here's some insight to how I did my plumbing.
When I purchased the 120gal tank, I did so without it being reef-ready.
I didn't want to have to deal with working with someone else's overflow. I wanted the overflow to take up as little real estate in the tank as possible. And I wanted the returns to be through the back of the tank. I wanted it to maintain that nice clean look.
I debated with doing a coast-to-coast BeanAnimal overflow, but I didn't know how it would work with the returns coming in from the back also. As I researched other options, I found that Gl@$$h0les had an overflow box with returns built in. When I contacted them about it, I found out that it had been discontinued. But I had found they made a very nice looking overflow box that took up very little space in the tank.
I purchased the 1500gal Overflow Kit along with two 3/4" Loc-line Return Kits.
Having never drilled a hole in a tank before, I was nervous about wrecking a $450 tank. Was I ever wrong! Drilling the four holes was extremely simple and easy. My advice is to take your time and let the drill bit do its job.
I placed the overflow box in the center of the tank. This does make it a little inconvenient when it came to installing the box, but it's where I wanted it. One return went on either side of the overflow box; still located towards the center of the tank. This all goes back to my OCD about having a clean and refined appearance. I didn't want to see the plumbing pipes behind the aquarium, unless I was looking back there.
For plumbing the drains and returns, I bought black pvc pipe (OCD).
With the black pipe, it is hardly noticeable in the shadow created by the lights and the tank. And I should mention I painted the back of the tank black.
The two drains are 1-1/2" diameter pipe that empty into the skimmer chamber of the sump. During the initial set-up phase, I was having trouble with noise and bubbles from the drains. Having done some research and some trial-and-error set-ups, I found that having reverse dursos on the outlet of the drains helped.
I should tell you about my sump design before I get any further.
I wanted my sump to feature a frag grow out section.
My corals are ever growing and I'm continually fragging them. And I'm not really a fan of having frag racks in the display tank. And I was hoping to not have a second set-up just for frags.
I designed my sump as a raceway.
Water enters on the left end, travels across the front half, falls over to the back half and then gets returned from the center in back.
I purchased a 40gal breeder tank during PetCo's dollar-per-gallon sales.
For my glass baffles, I cut the pieces myself form 1/4" thick glass.
You will notice that two of the glass baffles are notched. I took my glass to a local stained-glass cutter and he cut the two notches for $20. I then sanded the edges with a hand sander to polish the cut edges.
To glue the baffles in place, I used Momentive RTV 100 Series clear silicone.
I used masking tape to keep the silicone beads nice and clean.
After a day to cure, I ran a leak test and everything was sealed tight.
It's really hard to tell from these pictures, but here it is.
The first chamber (on the left) is the drain/skimmer chamber. The water level is at 9" deep for the skimmer and it overflows only in the front half of the sump. Since the above photo was taken, I added another baffle to force the water flow down in the frag chamber.
Water flows across the frag chamber to the right side of the sump and the goes over the baffle to the rear right corner. This is my media chamber. Or it could work for using chaeto algae as the flow through this chamber does tumble very well.
From there it goes under and over a bubble trap to the return chamber located in the middle of the tank.
I have yet to set-up the frag chamber for my frags. But I hope to use it soon.
To return water back up to the tank, I am using a Reef Octopus Water Blaster HY-5000 pump. A very quiet and energy efficient pump.
I used a Cepex ball valve on the main return and unions and gate valves on my two return lines.
The returns go through the back glass and have Loc-line pipe and flares for directing the water flow.
There are no anti-siphon holes or check valves used. I have plenty of extra room in my sump for when the power shuts off and the tank drains. (I've tested this over and over again just to be sure.)
Here's a look at the entire inside of the stand when I finished the plumbing.
