ReefBeforeGirls
New member
my build is kind of like yours! But instead of a very large tank in a very small condo, I have very tiny tank in a spacious one person closet.
Cheers!
Cheers!
A very large aquarium in a very small condo!
- Thread starter captngreg
- Start date
XTheMaxX
New member
I'm sure you'll have some good space saving ideas! This monstrosity is already looking to take over half of my kitchen!
One thing I have not come to terms with is quarantine & hospital tanks!
I just do not have the space !!!!!!!!!!
Buy a new house...
PD.- I'll start the stand tomorrow... yes yes... its me Abraham...
captngreg
New member
Equipment List:
2) Master DOC Skimmer 9440.000
Has two Hydrofoamer Silence 9420.04, recommended for aquariums up to 4,000 l (1,056 USgal.) of salt water.
(115 V / 60 Hz), 30 W, water flow rate: 2,600 l/h (686 USgal./h); air capacity: 1,700l/h (449 USgal./h), skimmer cup volume: 2 l (.52 (USgal.). 1 extra Hydrofoamer Silence 9420.04 spare
http://www.tunze.com/149.html?&L=1&C=AU&user_tunzeprod_pi1[predid]=-infoxunter055
Reason small footprint and no more than 24" high quality
2) Orphek PR156's w/ UV 120* optics
6) Orphek dimmable Nilus fixtures 120 optics 120 watts for a total of 960 watts
http://orphek.com/led/orphek-products/nilus/
Reason The large coverage area compared to other brands It appears to be the best on the market right now
2) EcoTech Marine MP60 Vortech Propeller Pump w/ EcoSMART Driver 60 watts each.
http://ecotechmarine.com/products/vortech/vortech-mp60/
Reason of all power heads type pumps these have the smallest foot print in the tank also backup for the closed loop system
2) Dolphin Amp Master Diamond Freshwater/Marine Abrasive Proof Pump - 4750 GPH (Type-4) 160 watt each to run the filtration system
1) Dolphin Amp Master Diamond Freshwater/Marine Abrasive Proof Pump - 6250 GPH (Type-4) 450 watt w/ a Hayward 115VAC Heavy duty Actuator mated to a three-way 2" Hayward true union valve
http://www.dolphinpumps.com/Products/Pumps/DiamondAmpMaster/DiamondAmpMaster.html
Reason This is the one of the biggest compromises of the build. I believe them to be the best direct drive pump available low heat transfer to aquarium water (type "“ 4 seals) should allow for years of trouble free operation. The bad they use a lot of electricity! I hope to someday upgrade to Abyzz pumps
1) Hayward EPM Series Electric Actuator
http://www.haywardflowcontrol.com/p...ator_10202_10053_2016873_-1_200277_11501_.htm
Reason wanted to be able to have reliable alternating current in the tank, went with an industry standard in automatic electronic valve control.
6) Small reverse flow reactors 2 with pelletized carbon 2 with PhosBan & 2 with RowanPhos
2) Neptune Apex controls + one a spare
http://www.neptunesys.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=43&Itemid=40
Reason good reviews simple easily expandable, meet my needs
2) ½ or ¾ HP compressors 230V 60Hz with Titanium chiller barrows split system
Reason need to talk to a refrigeration expert, hope to be able to get away with ½ HP for electrical consumption reason
2) 1000 watt Max Amps 4.2 230V 60Hz Titanium Heavy-Duty Industrial Immersion Heaters,
Reason use 230V no bell & whistles, all it does is heats & I can control it with my Apex vie a relay, here again industrial quality.
8) 6" 12 Volt Fans
2) Tunze Osmolator + 1 spare
http://www.tunze.com/149.html?&L=1&C=AU&user_tunzeprod_pi1[predid]=-infoxunter036
Reason has worked well for me in the past
2) "œJetstream 1" calcium reactors holds 2.5 liters of coral sand and has a
max output of 120 ml/min. Includes bubble counter and 115V/60 Hz pump. Measures 13" L x 6" W x 24" H.
http://www.schuran.com/english/calciumsea.html
Reason Very efficient CO2 usage have one already this keep the # of pump types lower
1) Brass CO2 regulator + 1 spare Brass regulator with two aquariumplants Carbon Doser Electronic Co2 Regulators -fully automatic -fully electronic -perfectly accurate
http://www.aquariumplants.com/CarbonDoser_Electronic_Co2_Regulator_p/co2.htm
Reason Seams like a good idea
1) Aqua UV 57 Watt 2 inch UV Sterilizer
http://www.aquaultraviolet.com/products/uvsterilizers/classic/57watt
1) Reeflo Blowhole BH1500 Water Pump Unique 3-speed AdjustaFlow switch FlowThru Design Nearly Silent operation Less than 6"x6"x6" footprint 1"x 1" threaded fittings Use for the UV's own closed loop, only run when needed.
http://www.reeflopumps.com/blowhole3speeds.html
Reason best quality in a small package
1) "œMy Reef Creations Small Nilsen Reactor" 4 1/2x18 Chamber BL-10 pump MRC touchpad control with LCD display
http://www.myreefcreations.com/product-lines/nilsen-kalk-reactors/index.html
Reason appears to be smartly designed
2) 1500 watt 230V to 110V transformers
1) SpectraPure® MaxCap UHE Ultra-High Efficiency 5-Stage 100GPD RO/DI System as primary
http://www.spectrapure.com/St_MaxCap-RO-DI.htm
Reason efficient use of water & filters
1) SpectraPure® MaxCap RO/DI System, 180gpd w/ Pressure Gauge & Purity Monitor w/ SpectraPure® Manual Operated Booster Pump Kits backup
This is a quick rundown of the equipment I plan on using in this build & why I chose them. I will readdress most the equipment again as I detail each subsystem of this build. As always your comments are always welcome & even encouraged. My criteria for choosing the equipment are as follows.
QUALITY, energy efficiency, space need to install, reliability.
2) Master DOC Skimmer 9440.000
Has two Hydrofoamer Silence 9420.04, recommended for aquariums up to 4,000 l (1,056 USgal.) of salt water.
(115 V / 60 Hz), 30 W, water flow rate: 2,600 l/h (686 USgal./h); air capacity: 1,700l/h (449 USgal./h), skimmer cup volume: 2 l (.52 (USgal.). 1 extra Hydrofoamer Silence 9420.04 spare
http://www.tunze.com/149.html?&L=1&C=AU&user_tunzeprod_pi1[predid]=-infoxunter055
Reason small footprint and no more than 24" high quality
2) Orphek PR156's w/ UV 120* optics
6) Orphek dimmable Nilus fixtures 120 optics 120 watts for a total of 960 watts
http://orphek.com/led/orphek-products/nilus/
Reason The large coverage area compared to other brands It appears to be the best on the market right now
2) EcoTech Marine MP60 Vortech Propeller Pump w/ EcoSMART Driver 60 watts each.
http://ecotechmarine.com/products/vortech/vortech-mp60/
Reason of all power heads type pumps these have the smallest foot print in the tank also backup for the closed loop system
2) Dolphin Amp Master Diamond Freshwater/Marine Abrasive Proof Pump - 4750 GPH (Type-4) 160 watt each to run the filtration system
1) Dolphin Amp Master Diamond Freshwater/Marine Abrasive Proof Pump - 6250 GPH (Type-4) 450 watt w/ a Hayward 115VAC Heavy duty Actuator mated to a three-way 2" Hayward true union valve
http://www.dolphinpumps.com/Products/Pumps/DiamondAmpMaster/DiamondAmpMaster.html
Reason This is the one of the biggest compromises of the build. I believe them to be the best direct drive pump available low heat transfer to aquarium water (type "“ 4 seals) should allow for years of trouble free operation. The bad they use a lot of electricity! I hope to someday upgrade to Abyzz pumps
1) Hayward EPM Series Electric Actuator
http://www.haywardflowcontrol.com/p...ator_10202_10053_2016873_-1_200277_11501_.htm
Reason wanted to be able to have reliable alternating current in the tank, went with an industry standard in automatic electronic valve control.
6) Small reverse flow reactors 2 with pelletized carbon 2 with PhosBan & 2 with RowanPhos
2) Neptune Apex controls + one a spare
http://www.neptunesys.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=43&Itemid=40
Reason good reviews simple easily expandable, meet my needs
2) ½ or ¾ HP compressors 230V 60Hz with Titanium chiller barrows split system
Reason need to talk to a refrigeration expert, hope to be able to get away with ½ HP for electrical consumption reason
2) 1000 watt Max Amps 4.2 230V 60Hz Titanium Heavy-Duty Industrial Immersion Heaters,
Reason use 230V no bell & whistles, all it does is heats & I can control it with my Apex vie a relay, here again industrial quality.
8) 6" 12 Volt Fans
2) Tunze Osmolator + 1 spare
http://www.tunze.com/149.html?&L=1&C=AU&user_tunzeprod_pi1[predid]=-infoxunter036
Reason has worked well for me in the past
2) "œJetstream 1" calcium reactors holds 2.5 liters of coral sand and has a
max output of 120 ml/min. Includes bubble counter and 115V/60 Hz pump. Measures 13" L x 6" W x 24" H.
http://www.schuran.com/english/calciumsea.html
Reason Very efficient CO2 usage have one already this keep the # of pump types lower
1) Brass CO2 regulator + 1 spare Brass regulator with two aquariumplants Carbon Doser Electronic Co2 Regulators -fully automatic -fully electronic -perfectly accurate
http://www.aquariumplants.com/CarbonDoser_Electronic_Co2_Regulator_p/co2.htm
Reason Seams like a good idea
1) Aqua UV 57 Watt 2 inch UV Sterilizer
http://www.aquaultraviolet.com/products/uvsterilizers/classic/57watt
1) Reeflo Blowhole BH1500 Water Pump Unique 3-speed AdjustaFlow switch FlowThru Design Nearly Silent operation Less than 6"x6"x6" footprint 1"x 1" threaded fittings Use for the UV's own closed loop, only run when needed.
http://www.reeflopumps.com/blowhole3speeds.html
Reason best quality in a small package
1) "œMy Reef Creations Small Nilsen Reactor" 4 1/2x18 Chamber BL-10 pump MRC touchpad control with LCD display
http://www.myreefcreations.com/product-lines/nilsen-kalk-reactors/index.html
Reason appears to be smartly designed
2) 1500 watt 230V to 110V transformers
1) SpectraPure® MaxCap UHE Ultra-High Efficiency 5-Stage 100GPD RO/DI System as primary
http://www.spectrapure.com/St_MaxCap-RO-DI.htm
Reason efficient use of water & filters
1) SpectraPure® MaxCap RO/DI System, 180gpd w/ Pressure Gauge & Purity Monitor w/ SpectraPure® Manual Operated Booster Pump Kits backup
This is a quick rundown of the equipment I plan on using in this build & why I chose them. I will readdress most the equipment again as I detail each subsystem of this build. As always your comments are always welcome & even encouraged. My criteria for choosing the equipment are as follows.
QUALITY, energy efficiency, space need to install, reliability.
captngreg
New member
Pluming List:
1) 2" three-way Hayward True Union Valve
9) 2" Hayward True Union Valve
17) 1-1/2" Hayward True Union Valve
11) 1" Hayward True Union Valve
9) ½" Generic Valve
24) 3/4" Penductor
2) 1" check valves
Plus untold #'s of Ts elbows plus flex & PVC piping.
I use threaded connections with Teflon ® Thread Sealants wherever possible. I find I never have a problem unlike using Teflon tape. I find no matter how will I plan I always end up changing the pluming around!
"œNever glue when you can squeeze in a screw"
1) 2" three-way Hayward True Union Valve
9) 2" Hayward True Union Valve
17) 1-1/2" Hayward True Union Valve
11) 1" Hayward True Union Valve
9) ½" Generic Valve
24) 3/4" Penductor
2) 1" check valves
Plus untold #'s of Ts elbows plus flex & PVC piping.
I use threaded connections with Teflon ® Thread Sealants wherever possible. I find I never have a problem unlike using Teflon tape. I find no matter how will I plan I always end up changing the pluming around!
"œNever glue when you can squeeze in a screw"
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captngreg
New member
Update on design;
I have decided on the new furniture for the living/aquarium room!
I think it goes pretty well with the woodwork that will be use in the aquarium design and also keeping a beach bungalow feel. The new furniture will be a lot smaller, & lighter then the stuff I have now making it easier to fit everything in this small space. I will be shipped via container from the port of Miami, along with a 1000 lbs of salt, propane gas backup generator for the aquarium plus the the sand. Hopefully everything will arrive before we are ready to add saltwater.
Before aquarium, & new woodwork
New furniture ordered; Dining room fabric will be a green color similar to the cushions on the couch.
I have decided on the new furniture for the living/aquarium room!
I think it goes pretty well with the woodwork that will be use in the aquarium design and also keeping a beach bungalow feel. The new furniture will be a lot smaller, & lighter then the stuff I have now making it easier to fit everything in this small space. I will be shipped via container from the port of Miami, along with a 1000 lbs of salt, propane gas backup generator for the aquarium plus the the sand. Hopefully everything will arrive before we are ready to add saltwater.
Before aquarium, & new woodwork
New furniture ordered; Dining room fabric will be a green color similar to the cushions on the couch.
captngreg
New member
The overflow boxes; are a little unique. I am trying to solve a few problems I have experience in the past. On the inside edge of each box there will be a slot that will accept plastic gutter guard. Plastic gutter guard is a stiff plastic mesh with approximately ¼" holes that you can buy at most hardware stores. The mesh is large enough to not easily clog but small enough, not to allow fish & all but the smallest snail through. Next I'm sure you noticed that the overflow box does not run all the way to the bottom of the tank. I am doing this because I have found that in a normal overflow box you cannot retrieve any animals that might get into them, these deep boxes tend to become a safe breeding ground for aipatasis anemones, & it's very difficult to clean the detritus from the bottom of the box. There are two returns, a 1" raising two inches off the bottom of the overflow box and a second 1-1/2" that has two 90 degree fittings. The 1" drain should take care of most of the return water but stay completely submerged under the water's surface. The 1-1/2" will drain the rest. This arrangement accomplishes two things, there is a back up drain & should be very quite. I will also be routing the returns, throw the overflow box. I do this because there is no room to route the piping on the outside of the aquarium and I will use the rockwork to hide the piping under the overflows. The overflow boxes will occupy approximately half of the end walls on each side of the aquarium.
captngreg
New member
Refugium Filter
Pic 1 General layout of the refugium filter
Pic 2 Return piping from the aquarium to the filter
Pic 3 Return piping from the aquarium to the closed loop
Pic 4 Piping from closed loop back to the aquarium
*Note I will be using flex PVC piping where ever possible to
eliminate 90s. I had to draw it out with 90 degree elbows because my
drawing program doesn't do compound curves. Sorry about that!
Pic 1 General layout of the refugium filter
Pic 2 Return piping from the aquarium to the filter
Pic 3 Return piping from the aquarium to the closed loop
Pic 4 Piping from closed loop back to the aquarium
*Note I will be using flex PVC piping where ever possible to
eliminate 90s. I had to draw it out with 90 degree elbows because my
drawing program doesn't do compound curves. Sorry about that!
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captngreg
New member
Refugium filter; Hear again I depart from the usual. My design use multiple compartments snaking back & forth instead of the more linear design found in most systems. The first compartment is where the Tunze protein skimmer are located. The output from the protein skimmers flows directly into the next set of back & forth up & down channels that serve as my cryptic zone. There is a slot between the two compartments to allow excesses water to flow in either direction. There is also a 2" Hayward true union valve that connects to a mirror refugium on the other side the closed loop pump. The cryptic zone contains loosely packed pieces of live rock and is shielded by a layer of black acrylic. This zone is a ½" higher than the next compartment. Next the water will flow into a refugium that will be lit by LED on a reverse lighting schedule. There are four 2-1/2" trays on the bottom of this area that will contain the Miracle Mud. The next compartment is design to be a multipurpose area. It can be divided into three sections if needed. You can use this space to expand the refugium, acclimate new arrivals or even raise coral frags. Lastly theirs the sump, the sump will contain the tritium heaters, temperature, PH, and ORP probes, Carbon, and PO4 reactors and a float switch for the auto top off, . This space is connected by a 1" raised floor under the first refugium area to a small compartment that is use to bridge the two refugiums with another 2" Hayward True Union Valve. The two 2" Hayward True Union Valve that are use to connect the two refugiums allow for any uneven water flow between the two returns as well as allowing the whole system to continue to work even if one of the two filter pumps fail. The water then enters one of two Dolphin pumps. There is a T off to a manifold that will supply water to the carbon, PO4, & calcium reactors and on the left side, supply water to the outside mangrove refugium. Next the water will flow into one of two tritium chiller borrows, and be piped up through the display tank & overflow boxes.
captngreg
New member
Return flows: are 1 ½" PVC, there will be a 1" check valve to break the siphon in case the pumps stops. The return flow pipe will rise above the tank approximately 18". The two return flows will connect together through a 1-1/2" Hayward true union valve. This valve will normally be closed. If by chance one of the filter pumps where to fail one could open this valve to supply water to the other half of the return system. Each side will have three tees connecting 1" return lines that will enter the aquarium all close to each other in the middle of the tank. I intend to cover all these return lines in rock & cement.
captngreg
New member
In a few more days I will be posting drawings of the closed loop subsystem. As well as a few sketches of the aquarium's anticipated flow dynamics.
Just need a little time to get everything drawn up.
After that I'll work on the lighting & hood design, with emphasis on passive cooling & air flow :debi:
Just need a little time to get everything drawn up.
After that I'll work on the lighting & hood design, with emphasis on passive cooling & air flow :debi:
captngreg
New member
Posting & sizing pictures here on Reef Central makes keeping a healthy reef look like child's play in comparison! LOL :spin1:
I have re-sized the overflow box & filter pictures to better fit this blog.
Wow !!!! I've been think & planning on this build for years! As I was reprinting & uploading the pictures I spotted a "œsingle point failure" A single point failure is any single piece of equipment that if it were to fail poses a significant danger to the system. The problem I spotted was the check valves; if one were to fail to open a significant amount of water would be drawn out of the aquarium and overflow the refugium/filter/sump. I add a Tee with a JohnGuest Speed fitting and a piece of tubing that will continually flow water into the tank. In the event of a pump failure it will also break the siphon.
Please if anyone spots a single point failure or foresee a problem, Please by all means speak up!
Thanks
Captngreg
I have re-sized the overflow box & filter pictures to better fit this blog.
Wow !!!! I've been think & planning on this build for years! As I was reprinting & uploading the pictures I spotted a "œsingle point failure" A single point failure is any single piece of equipment that if it were to fail poses a significant danger to the system. The problem I spotted was the check valves; if one were to fail to open a significant amount of water would be drawn out of the aquarium and overflow the refugium/filter/sump. I add a Tee with a JohnGuest Speed fitting and a piece of tubing that will continually flow water into the tank. In the event of a pump failure it will also break the siphon.
Please if anyone spots a single point failure or foresee a problem, Please by all means speak up!
Thanks
Captngreg
captngreg
New member
Closed Loop
The diagram of the closed loop is very difficult to follow, I need a 3D drawing program to make it clearer, and so I will talk you through it ---
In the back middle of the tank approximately 18" apart there will be two inlets for the closed loop. Diagram #3. They are 1-1/2" PVC to 1-1/2" through whole fittings. They enter a 2" 90 and connect together at a 2" T. Then the water flows down to the Diamond Amp Master 6250 pump. I use two returns so hopefully in the future I can upgrade the system to two Abyzz pumps. Once the water leaves the pump it goes directly into a Hayward three-way valve connected to heavy duty EPM3 actuators. I chose the heavy duty actuator modal because I wanted the option of rapid valve swing. This modal can reverse the flow in 12 sec. I know a person that successful use the light duty modal for many years but it took over a half a minute to reverse the flow. I believe this would be to slow to achieve the realist wave motion I want.
The water will enter the three-way Hayward valve and be alternately directed into two 2" lines. These return lines will split in to two more lines each leading to a 2" Hayward true union valve a 2" 90 then reduced to a 1-1/2" through whole fitting. This is where it's going to get interesting. The return water will run into a five-way 1-1/2" fitting, most of the opening will be using 90s to direct the flow pretty much in one direction. Each 1-1/2" opening will be reduced to ¾" and connected to an inductor to magnify the flow. The four outlet groups will alternate there direction of flow. So let just say every few minutes the far left group & the group of inductors just left of center will be pushing all the aquarium water to the right. A few minutes later the water will be flowing to the left. If the inductors only amplify the water movement by 2X that's over 1,200 gallon of water per hour going in one direction! I'm sure it's going to take a little tweaking to get the wave motion just right. The biggest problem I foresee in this whole build is, I don't have faith in my artistic skills to construct a live rock sculpture around theses inductors & piping similar to the beautiful rock work found in aquarium like Chinghai .
Some early pics of Chinghai'a rockwork
The diagram of the closed loop is very difficult to follow, I need a 3D drawing program to make it clearer, and so I will talk you through it ---
In the back middle of the tank approximately 18" apart there will be two inlets for the closed loop. Diagram #3. They are 1-1/2" PVC to 1-1/2" through whole fittings. They enter a 2" 90 and connect together at a 2" T. Then the water flows down to the Diamond Amp Master 6250 pump. I use two returns so hopefully in the future I can upgrade the system to two Abyzz pumps. Once the water leaves the pump it goes directly into a Hayward three-way valve connected to heavy duty EPM3 actuators. I chose the heavy duty actuator modal because I wanted the option of rapid valve swing. This modal can reverse the flow in 12 sec. I know a person that successful use the light duty modal for many years but it took over a half a minute to reverse the flow. I believe this would be to slow to achieve the realist wave motion I want.
The water will enter the three-way Hayward valve and be alternately directed into two 2" lines. These return lines will split in to two more lines each leading to a 2" Hayward true union valve a 2" 90 then reduced to a 1-1/2" through whole fitting. This is where it's going to get interesting. The return water will run into a five-way 1-1/2" fitting, most of the opening will be using 90s to direct the flow pretty much in one direction. Each 1-1/2" opening will be reduced to ¾" and connected to an inductor to magnify the flow. The four outlet groups will alternate there direction of flow. So let just say every few minutes the far left group & the group of inductors just left of center will be pushing all the aquarium water to the right. A few minutes later the water will be flowing to the left. If the inductors only amplify the water movement by 2X that's over 1,200 gallon of water per hour going in one direction! I'm sure it's going to take a little tweaking to get the wave motion just right. The biggest problem I foresee in this whole build is, I don't have faith in my artistic skills to construct a live rock sculpture around theses inductors & piping similar to the beautiful rock work found in aquarium like Chinghai .
Some early pics of Chinghai'a rockwork
captngreg
New member
UV
I am going to be using an Aqua 57 Watt ¾" inch UV Sterilizer on its own closed loop, powered by a Reeflo Blowhole BH1500 Water Pump . I do not normally run the UV; I believe the UV kills a lot of live food that the corals like to feed on. I keep the UV on standby just in case, I don't have room for a QT tank. As long as I keep excellent water quality I do not have a problem with Ick or velvet. If something does happen to my water quality or for some reason stress is induced into the fish population my Achilles does come down with ick. I have found if I get the water quality back to normal & turn on the UV the ick will go away in less than a week. I also turn on the UV if I introduce a fish that is extremely sensitive to ick. I will also have the ability to add a second UV if I think it becomes necessary.
I am going to be using an Aqua 57 Watt ¾" inch UV Sterilizer on its own closed loop, powered by a Reeflo Blowhole BH1500 Water Pump . I do not normally run the UV; I believe the UV kills a lot of live food that the corals like to feed on. I keep the UV on standby just in case, I don't have room for a QT tank. As long as I keep excellent water quality I do not have a problem with Ick or velvet. If something does happen to my water quality or for some reason stress is induced into the fish population my Achilles does come down with ick. I have found if I get the water quality back to normal & turn on the UV the ick will go away in less than a week. I also turn on the UV if I introduce a fish that is extremely sensitive to ick. I will also have the ability to add a second UV if I think it becomes necessary.
bboudreaux
New member
you mentioned a chiller, but my experience with leds has made that piece of equipment obsolete. in fact i use to keep my parameters stable with kalk in the ATO, but with lower tank temps evaporation has diminished greatly causing me to have to saturate my solution, and that is just bearly working for now. i fear i may have to get a calcium reactor. i think you will be able to get away with fans for cooling, as i live in se louisiana and my tank never gets above 80.5 degrees in summer.
