Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Hi all,
I was going to drill some large holes in a piece of acrylic in order to have filter socks in a sump I'm building. I purchased a 4" hole saw, any advice on how to go about drilling the hole?
My plan was to slowly go in from both sides using dish soap and water as lubricant. Does this sound right? Should I be doing anything else to make this go smoothly?
Thanks in advance.
Kaipo
I was going to drill some large holes in a piece of acrylic in order to have filter socks in a sump I'm building. I purchased a 4" hole saw, any advice on how to go about drilling the hole?
My plan was to slowly go in from both sides using dish soap and water as lubricant. Does this sound right? Should I be doing anything else to make this go smoothly?
Thanks in advance.
Kaipo
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
It varies depending on material, thickness, bonding technique, etc. IIRC for solvent weld joints (versus WO-40) 1/4" material a few days, 3/8" material a few more days to a week or so, 1/2"-3/4" a couple weeks, etc. That is what I have been doing at least.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
I have a few questions on this sump build.
Sump is 40 x 16 x 16, walls 3/8" plex-g (the general purpose Arkema stuff) and top/bottom 1/4" plex-g. up/downs are 10" tall, first 2 are 1/4" last one 3/8", and the teethed baffle is 3/8" thick and 11" tall w/1" teeth.
#1 question is about the euro. I was planning, as shows above, to do a 2" brace all around with 2" radiused corners on all for 3 cutouts. But is this overkill? Could I get away with a simpler brace without the crossbraces? Would it need to be wider?
#2 question. I have built a couple three sumps so far. I have been building them by putting all the baffles in after bonding the sides to the back, then flipping it and bonding all to the front, and doing the bottom seam all around and and bonding the baffles to the bottom in one shot (pinning all areas, including the baffles). This makes for having to work very quickly. I am thinking I should not put pins in the bottom joint under the baffles, just do the main joint around the edges and once the pins are pulled I would make a pass across the bottom baffle joints since those are not structural, they just need to not let (much) water past them.
Thanks in advance
Sump is 40 x 16 x 16, walls 3/8" plex-g (the general purpose Arkema stuff) and top/bottom 1/4" plex-g. up/downs are 10" tall, first 2 are 1/4" last one 3/8", and the teethed baffle is 3/8" thick and 11" tall w/1" teeth.
#1 question is about the euro. I was planning, as shows above, to do a 2" brace all around with 2" radiused corners on all for 3 cutouts. But is this overkill? Could I get away with a simpler brace without the crossbraces? Would it need to be wider?
#2 question. I have built a couple three sumps so far. I have been building them by putting all the baffles in after bonding the sides to the back, then flipping it and bonding all to the front, and doing the bottom seam all around and and bonding the baffles to the bottom in one shot (pinning all areas, including the baffles). This makes for having to work very quickly. I am thinking I should not put pins in the bottom joint under the baffles, just do the main joint around the edges and once the pins are pulled I would make a pass across the bottom baffle joints since those are not structural, they just need to not let (much) water past them.
Thanks in advance
Acrylic Tank Base ?????
Planning a tank, and would like some feedback.
Tank size 32'' long 26'' wide 14'' tall, all side will be 1'' acrylic, bottom will be 3/4'' acrylic. 50gal.
There will be a Hang on side filter chamber on both the left and right side of the tank, each chamber will hold 5gal.
Is it safe to set it on a plywood base that is 30'' x 24'', the plywood base will have 1 1/2'' square blocks elevating the plywood.
I would like to create the illusion of a tank floating in mid air.
Will the smaller base create structural concerns for the acrylic seams??
Planning a tank, and would like some feedback.
Tank size 32'' long 26'' wide 14'' tall, all side will be 1'' acrylic, bottom will be 3/4'' acrylic. 50gal.
There will be a Hang on side filter chamber on both the left and right side of the tank, each chamber will hold 5gal.
Is it safe to set it on a plywood base that is 30'' x 24'', the plywood base will have 1 1/2'' square blocks elevating the plywood.
I would like to create the illusion of a tank floating in mid air.
Will the smaller base create structural concerns for the acrylic seams??
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
I would say your illusion of a tank floating in mid air will be quickly converted to a reality of 50 gallons of water on the floor and a bunch of scrap acrylic.
You need to fully support any acrylic pressure vessel evenly across the entire bottom. Except for that one ATM made for Tanked that had the viewing portal in the bottom....right?
You need to fully support any acrylic pressure vessel evenly across the entire bottom. Except for that one ATM made for Tanked that had the viewing portal in the bottom....right?
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
James,
I've been working on a tank made of 3/4" Plex-G. We set the vertical joints with little issue. The top euro looked good except for right at the joints of the vertical panels in each corner where I forgot to scrape off the little bit of solvent that goos out when you pull the pins and then adjust the panels to be flush (oops). It's not horrible, but quite a few small bubbles right there on the corners. Much to worry about? Top is 1/2".
But, this is the real reason for my post below. We set the bottom joint and bubbles seemed to 'form' in a few spots as we ran the solvent in. As we filled it, the joint looked good and filled, then the bubbles would just form almost out of nowhere. Here's a few pictures. Tell me if this is really anything to worry about:
The tank is 48 x 19 x 30 H, 3/4 walls, 1/2 top/bottom, euro has 2.5" perimeter w/6" center, 2.5" radius corners. Used pins method, wiped both panels with denatured alcohol, blew off with air compressor, then canned air after pins, joint was still wet when be pulled the pins too so there was a nice fillet all around. Solvent was straight MC w/5% to 6% AA.
The only thing I can think of is maybe we should have shimmed the pins a little more aggressively all around to get them really tight. We really only needed to shim the corners and a little on the ends - table is a little crowned in the middle (maybe 1/8" higher), but the double-sided foam MDF boards seem to take care of a lot of that. Also I had one bad bubble (second pic) that seemed like the solvent didn't want to fill in, it was filling in at the inside and outside edges like a "U" then the solvent closed in around it making the bubble. Strangely this was over the crown in the table.
Could this be dust particles? I have noticed that it's kind of hard to clean the edges perfectly because of static. Even after wiping with alcohol and compressed air and canned air, I can't always get all the dust off. Is there a trick?
Is this joint doomed, or just unsightly?
Being the largest thing I've built to date, I am discovering that I may need to make some modifications to my table or technique, or both. I hope you can shed a little light on this...thanks in advance.
EDIT: PS the bubbles in Pic #3 are elongated because the joint floated after we pulled the pins, and we noticed it just in time to re-adjust it...
I've been working on a tank made of 3/4" Plex-G. We set the vertical joints with little issue. The top euro looked good except for right at the joints of the vertical panels in each corner where I forgot to scrape off the little bit of solvent that goos out when you pull the pins and then adjust the panels to be flush (oops). It's not horrible, but quite a few small bubbles right there on the corners. Much to worry about? Top is 1/2".
But, this is the real reason for my post below. We set the bottom joint and bubbles seemed to 'form' in a few spots as we ran the solvent in. As we filled it, the joint looked good and filled, then the bubbles would just form almost out of nowhere. Here's a few pictures. Tell me if this is really anything to worry about:
The tank is 48 x 19 x 30 H, 3/4 walls, 1/2 top/bottom, euro has 2.5" perimeter w/6" center, 2.5" radius corners. Used pins method, wiped both panels with denatured alcohol, blew off with air compressor, then canned air after pins, joint was still wet when be pulled the pins too so there was a nice fillet all around. Solvent was straight MC w/5% to 6% AA.
The only thing I can think of is maybe we should have shimmed the pins a little more aggressively all around to get them really tight. We really only needed to shim the corners and a little on the ends - table is a little crowned in the middle (maybe 1/8" higher), but the double-sided foam MDF boards seem to take care of a lot of that. Also I had one bad bubble (second pic) that seemed like the solvent didn't want to fill in, it was filling in at the inside and outside edges like a "U" then the solvent closed in around it making the bubble. Strangely this was over the crown in the table.
Could this be dust particles? I have noticed that it's kind of hard to clean the edges perfectly because of static. Even after wiping with alcohol and compressed air and canned air, I can't always get all the dust off. Is there a trick?
Is this joint doomed, or just unsightly?
Being the largest thing I've built to date, I am discovering that I may need to make some modifications to my table or technique, or both. I hope you can shed a little light on this...thanks in advance.
EDIT: PS the bubbles in Pic #3 are elongated because the joint floated after we pulled the pins, and we noticed it just in time to re-adjust it...
I'm going to be attaching a 30"x5"x6" external overflow box to my acrylic tank. I have gotten my pieces cut and the sides routed for a smooth surface. I'm ready to glue the pieces to make the box.
My questions are (based on my plan outlined below):
1. When applying the Weldon 3 with the hypo needle how much am I suppose to squeeze out while running it across the joint?
2. Should I apply the weldon first and then use the right angle to prop up the piece to 90 degrees?
3. After pulling out the fishing lines do I need to add weight?
I will be using Weldon 3, with a hypo-25 needle, and the material is Plexiglass G 3/8" material. Any tips or pointers will be helpful.
I will be attempting to use the pin method.
Here is my plan:
1. Lay the bottom piece flat (30" x 5") and place a side piece on top (4 5/8" x 6") (perpendicular of course).
2. Place two pieces of fishing line between the joint.
3. Use a plastic right angle (with corner piece broken away) to get a 90 degree joint. (Corner piece is broken away so it will not touch the joints)
4. Apply the weldon 3 with the hypo 25 needle.
5. Let is sit for 30 seconds and pull the two fishing lines out.
6. Let it dry for 1 hour.
7. Then use similar methods for the rest of the joints.
My questions are (based on my plan outlined below):
1. When applying the Weldon 3 with the hypo needle how much am I suppose to squeeze out while running it across the joint?
2. Should I apply the weldon first and then use the right angle to prop up the piece to 90 degrees?
3. After pulling out the fishing lines do I need to add weight?
I will be using Weldon 3, with a hypo-25 needle, and the material is Plexiglass G 3/8" material. Any tips or pointers will be helpful.
I will be attempting to use the pin method.
Here is my plan:
1. Lay the bottom piece flat (30" x 5") and place a side piece on top (4 5/8" x 6") (perpendicular of course).
2. Place two pieces of fishing line between the joint.
3. Use a plastic right angle (with corner piece broken away) to get a 90 degree joint. (Corner piece is broken away so it will not touch the joints)
4. Apply the weldon 3 with the hypo 25 needle.
5. Let is sit for 30 seconds and pull the two fishing lines out.
6. Let it dry for 1 hour.
7. Then use similar methods for the rest of the joints.
Last edited:
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
I don't know where you came up with fishing line, but don't use that. Use 28 guage wire from Home Depot (in the picture frame hanging section) or garbage bag twist ties, strip the paper off.
You squeeze out enough to fill the joint ahead of the direction you are moving the needle tip.
Step 1: yes
Step 2: pins, not line
Step 3: do this before step 2. Fit the joint together as it would be when finished, put the right angle joint in place and secure the side piece to it with clamps. Then put the pins in. This way 1) the piece won't slide around the second you fill the joint and 2) once you pull the pins the joint will be where it will end up (flush fit)
Step 4: when you say hypo needle, you using a squeeze bottle with the needle, not a syringe, correct?
Step 5: you only probably need about 15 seconds soak time. 30 seconds would be the longest I would wait with WO3. A good rule of thumb is when you start to see the air pull into the joint as the WO evaporates, you're almost too late (but still OK)
Step 6: probably OK, but if you can, wait minimum 2, preferably 4 and overnight if you can. Your external box is not where you want to cut a corner, so I personally would wait as long as you can.
Step 7: Yuuuuup.
For an internal/external box, you can bond the bottom or back/front on last (the 4th side of the box), either way as long as you end up with a square bonding edge.
You squeeze out enough to fill the joint ahead of the direction you are moving the needle tip.
Step 1: yes
Step 2: pins, not line
Step 3: do this before step 2. Fit the joint together as it would be when finished, put the right angle joint in place and secure the side piece to it with clamps. Then put the pins in. This way 1) the piece won't slide around the second you fill the joint and 2) once you pull the pins the joint will be where it will end up (flush fit)
Step 4: when you say hypo needle, you using a squeeze bottle with the needle, not a syringe, correct?
Step 5: you only probably need about 15 seconds soak time. 30 seconds would be the longest I would wait with WO3. A good rule of thumb is when you start to see the air pull into the joint as the WO evaporates, you're almost too late (but still OK)
Step 6: probably OK, but if you can, wait minimum 2, preferably 4 and overnight if you can. Your external box is not where you want to cut a corner, so I personally would wait as long as you can.
Step 7: Yuuuuup.
For an internal/external box, you can bond the bottom or back/front on last (the 4th side of the box), either way as long as you end up with a square bonding edge.
Floyd,
Thanks for your response.
I should have clarified the hypo needle. Its a squeeze bottle with a needle and the needle size is hypo 25.
I got the fishing line idea from Acrylics. I believe it was in one of the posts he replied to me in this thread. (Found it....Post #1160)
I'm still a little confused on the amount of WO. When you say fill the joint ahead, am I supposed to squeeze out to fill the entire joint contact area while sliding along the edge?
Also, I could not locate plastic right angles so would a steel or metal right angle on the opposite side from where I'm applying the solvent work? Will the WO stick to the metal square (or right angle)?
Thanks again.
Thanks for your response.
I should have clarified the hypo needle. Its a squeeze bottle with a needle and the needle size is hypo 25.
I got the fishing line idea from Acrylics. I believe it was in one of the posts he replied to me in this thread. (Found it....Post #1160)
I'm still a little confused on the amount of WO. When you say fill the joint ahead, am I supposed to squeeze out to fill the entire joint contact area while sliding along the edge?
Also, I could not locate plastic right angles so would a steel or metal right angle on the opposite side from where I'm applying the solvent work? Will the WO stick to the metal square (or right angle)?
Thanks again.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
Ok how do I explain this. You set up the joint with the pins in it (the pins are only 1 or 2 mm into the joint - don't make a dam). You start with the needle at one end and drag it along the joint (bottle leading the needle). As you go along the joint, the capillary action will cause the solvent to wick ahead of the point of the needle. The more/harder you squeeze out, the faster the 'bead' of solvent will move. If you get ahead of the 'bead', you risk inducing a bubble.
Fill the squeeze bottle about 3/4 full, then point away from you and squeeze out most of the air. Invert and let up squeezing to keep solvent from dripping out as you bring the needle to the joint. Start squeezing until the solvent wicks in (you can see it happening) and then once it's 'ahead' of you, start sliding the needle along the joint. Don't let up on the pressure at the end until the needle is off the joint or else you may suck the solvent out of the end of the joint. If you have to go back over the joint for any reason, make sure all the air is out of the needle before you put it to the joint or you can blow a bubble into the joint.
Don't use anything that will be in contact with the other side of the joint. It will bond. Steel framing squares are not very square. You could use them, but I would not. Plus you can't really clamp to them. It is worth doing it right vs doing over.
On the fishing line...huh...I guess I didn't see that one. Go ahead and use it then! I just figured the solvent would dissolve it. Well, you learn something new every day.
HTH
Bud
Fill the squeeze bottle about 3/4 full, then point away from you and squeeze out most of the air. Invert and let up squeezing to keep solvent from dripping out as you bring the needle to the joint. Start squeezing until the solvent wicks in (you can see it happening) and then once it's 'ahead' of you, start sliding the needle along the joint. Don't let up on the pressure at the end until the needle is off the joint or else you may suck the solvent out of the end of the joint. If you have to go back over the joint for any reason, make sure all the air is out of the needle before you put it to the joint or you can blow a bubble into the joint.
Don't use anything that will be in contact with the other side of the joint. It will bond. Steel framing squares are not very square. You could use them, but I would not. Plus you can't really clamp to them. It is worth doing it right vs doing over.
On the fishing line...huh...I guess I didn't see that one. Go ahead and use it then! I just figured the solvent would dissolve it. Well, you learn something new every day.
HTH
Bud
triggers_150
New member
Hello,
Just wanted some feedback on the thickness of a tank.
48"x36"x30"
Do I need 3/4" front and back and the sides and could I use 1/2" for the top and bottom?
Thanks for the help,
Just wanted some feedback on the thickness of a tank.
48"x36"x30"
Do I need 3/4" front and back and the sides and could I use 1/2" for the top and bottom?
Thanks for the help,
mls228
Member
Possible Tank issue - Repair
Possible Tank issue - Repair
This weekend I wet tested the tank I've been planning to use for my new (and 1st reef setup.) It held water with no leaks. It's a ~90g acrylic DT with a 120g sitting below it in the basement with an external beananimal on the acrylic DT. The acrylic DT was purchased used about a year ago.
I literally lost sleep last night over what I noticed...
A 1.5" long white area of the joint/seam along the vertical back left edge. The blue back is a single rectangular piece that spans the width of the tank, the sides and front are a single piece with curved edges that butt up to the back. It may or may not have been there before I purchased the tank, at this point I don't know.
1. Can I reinforce this by using a cut piece of acrylic and a weld-on a "lap" joint on the exterior?
2. Would I need to then to also weld-on a piece to the inside seam?
pics...
External Bean
Possible Tank issue - Repair
This weekend I wet tested the tank I've been planning to use for my new (and 1st reef setup.) It held water with no leaks. It's a ~90g acrylic DT with a 120g sitting below it in the basement with an external beananimal on the acrylic DT. The acrylic DT was purchased used about a year ago.
I literally lost sleep last night over what I noticed...
A 1.5" long white area of the joint/seam along the vertical back left edge. The blue back is a single rectangular piece that spans the width of the tank, the sides and front are a single piece with curved edges that butt up to the back. It may or may not have been there before I purchased the tank, at this point I don't know.
1. Can I reinforce this by using a cut piece of acrylic and a weld-on a "lap" joint on the exterior?
2. Would I need to then to also weld-on a piece to the inside seam?
pics...
External Bean
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
Well, that's not good....
I would wait until James chime in on this one before taking my following advice...(I'm guessing he's really busy - haven't seen a response in a while)
but IMO you need the internal gusset more than the external one. The internal one should be a pretty hefty piece, probably 1" square or triangular, and the full length of the seam, top to bottom. Also (not sure on this one) but before you do that, you might want to fill the white area with some weld-on #4 or #3 and put a couple of bar clamps on the joint to stop the bleeding and leave that for a day or so, then add the internal gusset (probably using WO40 or possibly 16, but preferably 40) then add an external strip.
At least, that's what I would do.
I would wait until James chime in on this one before taking my following advice...(I'm guessing he's really busy - haven't seen a response in a while)
but IMO you need the internal gusset more than the external one. The internal one should be a pretty hefty piece, probably 1" square or triangular, and the full length of the seam, top to bottom. Also (not sure on this one) but before you do that, you might want to fill the white area with some weld-on #4 or #3 and put a couple of bar clamps on the joint to stop the bleeding and leave that for a day or so, then add the internal gusset (probably using WO40 or possibly 16, but preferably 40) then add an external strip.
At least, that's what I would do.
