Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

Hi James,
Is it possible to cut a tank this size down levelly so a new top could be put on?
Is that something I could do or are special tools needed?
Thank you,
Sean
 
Hi James,
Is it possible to cut a tank this size down levelly so a new top could be put on?
Is that something I could do or are special tools needed?
Thank you,
Sean

I would do it. Cut off with a circular saw then setup a guide for a router. Probly still have to dress the corners to get everything flush. To me, biggest issue would be fastening the router guide. Guess you could do it with clamps then move them. Noob here, guessing, but a lot of years of wood working, so I'm curious to see what James says.
 
Sorry I missed this... it's usually best if left alone. The friction induced heat from trying to repair can often stress the material making it even worse.


HTH,
James

Thank you for the advice. Do you think this could still happen if I wet sand it with micromesh?

Thanks,
 
Hi James,
Is it possible to cut a tank this size down levelly so a new top could be put on?
Is that something I could do or are special tools needed?
I would do it. Cut off with a circular saw then setup a guide for a router. Probly still have to dress the corners to get everything flush. To me, biggest issue would be fastening the router guide. Guess you could do it with clamps then move them. Noob here, guessing, but a lot of years of wood working, so I'm curious to see what James says.
Pretty much the same thing, just that I'd *personally* do the whole thing with a router, but yup :) Big bar clamps or double faced-tape to hold the router fence, and then micro-adjusting it to get it planar. You don't have to worry too much about the top being *perfectly* level, just level enough to be flat and get a good joint on the new top.
With the above said, if you are not completely comfortable with the tooling need - don't try it - things can go sideways real quick.

Thank you for the advice. Do you think this could still happen if I wet sand it with micromesh?
No, probably not. But Micro-Mesh is not real practical for material removal. Remember, crazing is actual fractures in the material and you'd have to sand down to below the lowest point of these fractures - this means a good bit of material removal. Even removing a few thousanths of an inch in a large area can induce a good bit of heat.

James
 
Double-faced tape is brilliant. :)

James runs a different router than I do. ;)

Pretty much the same thing, just that I'd *personally* do the whole thing with a router, but yup :) Big bar clamps or double faced-tape to hold the router fence, and then micro-adjusting it to get it planar. You don't have to worry too much about the top being *perfectly* level, just level enough to be flat and get a good joint on the new top.
With the above said, if you are not completely comfortable with the tooling need - don't try it - things can go sideways real quick.
>snip

James
 
No, probably not. But Micro-Mesh is not real practical for material removal. Remember, crazing is actual fractures in the material and you'd have to sand down to below the lowest point of these fractures - this means a good bit of material removal. Even removing a few thousanths of an inch in a large area can induce a good bit of heat.

James[/QUOTE]

Thanks,
 
Sean, I would guess there is someone in your local area who could help you with it? Maybe in a local reef club? or perhaps a local fabricator - if it's worth it to you :)

James
 
We have no acrylic shope here anymore.

Maybe I will take the old shotgun to it and see what happens.

It would make one hell of a nice refugium/growout tank thouh. :(
 
We have no acrylic shope here anymore.

Maybe I will take the old shotgun to it and see what happens.

It would make one hell of a nice refugium/growout tank thouh. :(
buckshot will simply bounce off 1" unless you're talking like .30cal pellets, then not so sure. Would be interesting to try 1oz slugs though ;)
..wish you were closer :( I'm hopeful you can find someone to help ya out

James
 
How did it crack in the first place? Or did I miss that?

Keep looking for someone within driving range that may be able to help you with it. Thefe has to be somebody!
 
CJ, it cracked in a corner of an access cutout, the eurobrace was only 2" with no crossbracing and the radius in the corner was very small (1/4") so the load was concentrated in a very small area.

.. and yeah, has to be someone around there..

James
 
..wish you were closer I'm hopeful you can find someone to help ya out

Closer so you can help him fix the tank or shoot it.... I know how you LOVE your guns James ;)

ps... I heard the 1000 gallon for Westside is being delivered on Sat the 23rd, are you going to be there?
 
Quick question for you James, I used weld-on 4 for the first time in awhile (ran out of your recipe) and I had a problem. The solvent went into the joint just fine... pulled the pins in about 30 seconds or so and left it to dry. When I returned, it looked as though only the middle of the joint (1/2" material) had a nice melt. Both the outside and the inside looked like all of the solvent evaperated and left a very poor looking joint. I am thinking I pulled the pins too soon before the material had a chance to really melt and didn't form any sort of a dam of melted acrylic to keep the solvent in the joint. Does that sound right/make sense? Do you think something else could have happened?

Thanks
Mike
 
Hmmm maybe my Weatherby mag then. ;)

I'll try and check the Raleigh area.

In your estimation, how long would it take to cut something this size down (60"x48")?

Thanks,
Sean
 
Closer so you can help him fix the tank or shoot it.... I know how you LOVE your guns James ;)

ps... I heard the 1000 gallon for Westside is being delivered on Sat the 23rd, are you going to be there?
Umm, both? :D Actually wouldn't mind helpin' him out a bit if I could. Wouldn't take but an afternoon or so to do it.

As for the tank..umm yeah, might be ;) hope he's got plenty of helpers, sucker is heavy :D

Quick question for you James, I used weld-on 4 for the first time in awhile (ran out of your recipe) and I had a problem. The solvent went into the joint just fine... pulled the pins in about 30 seconds or so and left it to dry. When I returned, it looked as though only the middle of the joint (1/2" material) had a nice melt. Both the outside and the inside looked like all of the solvent evaperated and left a very poor looking joint. I am thinking I pulled the pins too soon before the material had a chance to really melt and didn't form any sort of a dam of melted acrylic to keep the solvent in the joint. Does that sound right/make sense? Do you think something else could have happened?
Try pulling the pins sooner actually, I'm not a big fan of soaking the joint as long as some others are :)
..and yeah, mine's made for a specific material at a specific temperature, blah blah.. ;)

Hmmm maybe my Weatherby mag then. ;)

I'll try and check the Raleigh area.

In your estimation, how long would it take to cut something this size down (60"x48")?
Rifle rounds definitely go through - part of the job every now and then :D

I'd guess it would take about 3 hours to get a good gluable edge. 2 hours *if* the planets are aligned correctly, the sun is shining in just the right way, and the gods are happy.. :)

James
 
Acrylics, I want to make a 14"x14"x14" rimless acrylic cube. The water level will probably 12" high. Would I be safe using 1/4" thick acrylic?
 
+2 :D

(16x16x12) No bowing yet.
04.09.2011-6.jpg
 
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