Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
henrystyle
Member
Any answer for this? I want to do the same thing..
You can go as close to the top as you wish.
I make my slots with a router, if you're comfortable with them and taking one to your tank - they work well.
As long as you don't go "under a cross-brace" and your overflow is shallow like his - you shouldn't have to worry about added deflection in the back. The external box, once glue one, should provide the required structural rigidity. In effect, it'll act as the euro-brace, just 6" lower.
You don't want to put a long slot under or behind a cross-brace (as if extended to the back) as this deprives the "backbone" the cross-brace needs to hold the front.
Hope this makes sense,
James
hllywd
Premier World Traveler
I'm currently having a bad experience with www.reefersaquariums.com , anybody know anything about them? They were reccomended here on RC in a few different places, but all communication died after 2/15/10... here's my experience;
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1810462
Tim
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1810462
Tim
henrystyle
Member
Makes sense.. thanks...
Misos Anthropos
New member
Hey Acrylics,
My first actual post here!!
I'm a complete newb to SW but have caught the bug to have a nice tank. I'm thinking that I wanna start out with the biggest tank I can realistically ever have. Which seems to be a 120, 48x24x24.
Due to where I live I'm having trouble finding a place to buy that size tank without incurring outrageous shipping bills. Also there's a few things I wanna put in it before the eurobracing goes on. (my own design overflow since it will be a peninsula tank. I've been spending a lot of quality time with sketchup!!) Looking at prices it seems to me that I could build my own tank for far less than ordering it and having the mods done before I get it.
My question is, is this too big/complicated a job for a complete newb and should I just bite the bullet and spend the cash for a manufactured one?
Thanks
Larry.
My first actual post here!!
I'm a complete newb to SW but have caught the bug to have a nice tank. I'm thinking that I wanna start out with the biggest tank I can realistically ever have. Which seems to be a 120, 48x24x24.
Due to where I live I'm having trouble finding a place to buy that size tank without incurring outrageous shipping bills. Also there's a few things I wanna put in it before the eurobracing goes on. (my own design overflow since it will be a peninsula tank. I've been spending a lot of quality time with sketchup!!) Looking at prices it seems to me that I could build my own tank for far less than ordering it and having the mods done before I get it.
My question is, is this too big/complicated a job for a complete newb and should I just bite the bullet and spend the cash for a manufactured one?
Thanks
Larry.
Hi Larry,
If you have all the tooling and skills, should be able to build that tank for somewhere in the $500-600 range using 1/2" material. This is a size that is well within the realm of what the average hobbyist can build at home. It's not too big, not too heavy so you don't need a bunch of guys to help, and if something goes south - not going to completely break the bank, discouraging - yes, but won't break the bank. That said, if you don't have the skills & tooling, I'd recommend buying one.
Being totally honest:
Folks can read these threads and glean lots of useful bits of info but IMO what it really takes is practical experience and that's only achieved by practice. How to glue and control solvent, how to know if the machining is going well, timing, and what to do in case of problems, and all that kind of stuff cannot be *really* learned from a website as far as I'm concerned. I could tell you in written word, but until you've seen it, felt it, and done it yourself, it would be a mistake IMO to try to make a display tank.
If you haven't built anything from acrylic, you need to practice on smaller stuff prior to building a display tank IMO. Build a couple small display cases for something, start small, it's a process we all go through. Once you do that, maybe build a sump or something similar to get more of a feel for longer glue joints, solvent flow & reaction times, this sort of thing.
Now if you've built a few things and they've gone well, that there's a different story and I'd say go for it
HTH,
James
If you have all the tooling and skills, should be able to build that tank for somewhere in the $500-600 range using 1/2" material. This is a size that is well within the realm of what the average hobbyist can build at home. It's not too big, not too heavy so you don't need a bunch of guys to help, and if something goes south - not going to completely break the bank, discouraging - yes, but won't break the bank. That said, if you don't have the skills & tooling, I'd recommend buying one.
Being totally honest:
Folks can read these threads and glean lots of useful bits of info but IMO what it really takes is practical experience and that's only achieved by practice. How to glue and control solvent, how to know if the machining is going well, timing, and what to do in case of problems, and all that kind of stuff cannot be *really* learned from a website as far as I'm concerned. I could tell you in written word, but until you've seen it, felt it, and done it yourself, it would be a mistake IMO to try to make a display tank.
If you haven't built anything from acrylic, you need to practice on smaller stuff prior to building a display tank IMO. Build a couple small display cases for something, start small, it's a process we all go through. Once you do that, maybe build a sump or something similar to get more of a feel for longer glue joints, solvent flow & reaction times, this sort of thing.
Now if you've built a few things and they've gone well, that there's a different story and I'd say go for it
HTH,
James
RokleM
Premium Member
Agree completely. A lot of this is a science, but when it comes down to it people like acrylics are artists. There's the flow and feel you just can't read about and won't understand until you get to it.
A few easy things to start with are underwater camera boxes, small QT tanks, small fragswap tanks, sumps, etc.
Misos Anthropos
New member
Hi Larry,
If you have all the tooling and skills, should be able to build that tank for somewhere in the $500-600 range using 1/2" material. This is a size that is well within the realm of what the average hobbyist can build at home. It's not too big, not too heavy so you don't need a bunch of guys to help, and if something goes south - not going to completely break the bank, discouraging - yes, but won't break the bank. That said, if you don't have the skills & tooling, I'd recommend buying one.
Being totally honest:
Folks can read these threads and glean lots of useful bits of info but IMO what it really takes is practical experience and that's only achieved by practice. How to glue and control solvent, how to know if the machining is going well, timing, and what to do in case of problems, and all that kind of stuff cannot be *really* learned from a website as far as I'm concerned. I could tell you in written word, but until you've seen it, felt it, and done it yourself, it would be a mistake IMO to try to make a display tank.
If you haven't built anything from acrylic, you need to practice on smaller stuff prior to building a display tank IMO. Build a couple small display cases for something, start small, it's a process we all go through. Once you do that, maybe build a sump or something similar to get more of a feel for longer glue joints, solvent flow & reaction times, this sort of thing.
Now if you've built a few things and they've gone well, that there's a different story and I'd say go for it
HTH,
James
Thanks James. I kinda figured it may be beyond my non-existent skill level. I just hate to shell out that much money to have the tank custom built, I'm not real sure that anyone would even build it.
Its a little ways into the future though, so maybe I can find someone close to home.
TampaReefer79
Premium Member
You underestimate the power of $$.
Onto my current issues...I post here to get as many 'acrylic gods' into my current situation as possible...ANYONE with an opinion please post it! I'm about to buy a tank and am getting scared...
The tank is large - 8'x4'x30" and was made by ten a cor. The issue lies in the fact that this tank that is 8 feet long and 4 feet wide is made from 3/4 inch acrylic. It also utilizes 2 75 gallon surge tanks for water movement. Am I setting myself up for disaster by purchasing this tank? Shouldn't it be 1" acrylic? I don't know much about ten a cor, but I can't imagine they'd make a disaster waiting to happen and risk their reputation. All that said, I'm still worried. Does anyone here think that the 150 gallon surges every few minutes (more or less) will weaken the seams enough to blow the tank out? 3/4 seems small as I said, but maybe not?? PLEASE HELP! I could also run just a plain closed loop with the bulkheads that the surge tanks were using. ?? Here's a link to some pics of the tank:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1690813&highlight=600g+surge
So do ten a cor build tanks like...well tanks? I want to not have ANY worries about it...but I guess you always have worries with this much water in your house. lol I realize anything can happen at any time, but I just hope this isn't an accident waiting to happen. :hammer::hammer::hammer:
Thanks in advance!
PJ
Why did I have to edit my post and mispell ten a cor so it didn't get changed to *******???
PJ,
If the tank is braced well, it should be okay. By braced well, I mean it should have least 2 cross braces on the length (preferably 3,) and one on the short side as well as a perimeter flange measuring at least 4".
If not done this way, then it needs to have a perimeter flange measuring at least 6-8" plus at least one center-brace. If not, I'd pass if it was going to be used with surge tanks.
As a generality, companies don't make tanks to meet criteria such as surges, which will add stresses to every component of the tank. If a customer calls and talks about it with the salesperson, then perhaps, but generally speaking this is not the case. A customer buys the tank and then adds surges.
For the size tank it is, I'd recommend 1" anyway, but certainly with the surge system in mind. The tank made from 3/4" is okay, even 1/2" would hold water, the 3/4" will bow a little more than I want to see (up to about 1/4") but will hold water with the surges, again - provided it is braced well.
The seams are not the problem, provided they are good. The odds are that it will crack out at an access corner out to the front or back loooong before a seam blows.
As for specifics about the company, their builds, and why you can't mention their name...I can't comment on that.
HTH,
James
If the tank is braced well, it should be okay. By braced well, I mean it should have least 2 cross braces on the length (preferably 3,) and one on the short side as well as a perimeter flange measuring at least 4".
If not done this way, then it needs to have a perimeter flange measuring at least 6-8" plus at least one center-brace. If not, I'd pass if it was going to be used with surge tanks.
As a generality, companies don't make tanks to meet criteria such as surges, which will add stresses to every component of the tank. If a customer calls and talks about it with the salesperson, then perhaps, but generally speaking this is not the case. A customer buys the tank and then adds surges.
For the size tank it is, I'd recommend 1" anyway, but certainly with the surge system in mind. The tank made from 3/4" is okay, even 1/2" would hold water, the 3/4" will bow a little more than I want to see (up to about 1/4") but will hold water with the surges, again - provided it is braced well.
The seams are not the problem, provided they are good. The odds are that it will crack out at an access corner out to the front or back loooong before a seam blows.
As for specifics about the company, their builds, and why you can't mention their name...I can't comment on that.
HTH,
James
TampaReefer79
Premium Member
Thank you so much for the reply. Considering the fact that the tank is in PA and I'm in FL, I kinda have to buy it or not buy it. I can't drop by to look at it. lol The bracing you mention I'm just not sure about. I do know however that there are only TWO openings for lights on the top. Would you recommend hooking up a large pump to the holes drilled as a closed loop rather than use the surge tanks then?
Given the size/thickness and not too sure about the bracing, I'd tend to shy away from the surges. The tank may handle it quite well, may not. There's only one way to be sure and if you feel any risk about that at all...
James
TampaReefer79
Premium Member
James - do you have a phone number you can be reached at? Assuming you wouldn't mind me calling to discuss a little bit further in detail.
Thanks!
Thanks!
James
I just bought a All in one (AIO)custom tank. its 24L x 12D x 12H
1/2" Acyrlic
My issue is the AIO wall where the water flows into is to far out. Its 4" out which leaves me about 7" for rock and corals/ fish.
I want to push the AIO wall back about 2" but Im unsure how without making a mess.
Questions:
1-do you think its worth it for only 2"
2- How do I take the wall out without scratching the acrylic and re-glueing to the position Im happy with
3-Whats the Best way to cut the acrylic
Thanks
I just bought a All in one (AIO)custom tank. its 24L x 12D x 12H
1/2" Acyrlic
My issue is the AIO wall where the water flows into is to far out. Its 4" out which leaves me about 7" for rock and corals/ fish.
I want to push the AIO wall back about 2" but Im unsure how without making a mess.
Questions:
1-do you think its worth it for only 2"
2- How do I take the wall out without scratching the acrylic and re-glueing to the position Im happy with
3-Whats the Best way to cut the acrylic
Thanks
eran
New member
I bought some acrylic from a plastics company here that is cell cast but just has plain brown protective paper on it. No name or anything on it. My question is, will it be ok to use or will I have issues with it making strong seams??? If it matters it is 1/2" material.
The tank I am wanting to make is 44"x24"x16". All the pieces are 1/2" material but I still need to buy another sheet to make the eurobracing. I want to buy 3/8" because it is like $65 cheaper for another sheet. My second question is, should I use the 1/2" thick material that I already have cut for the bottom or should I use the 3/8" material for the bottom piece and the 1/2" piece that is originally had for the bottom to make the top eurobracing?? Does that sense?
The tank I am wanting to make is 44"x24"x16". All the pieces are 1/2" material but I still need to buy another sheet to make the eurobracing. I want to buy 3/8" because it is like $65 cheaper for another sheet. My second question is, should I use the 1/2" thick material that I already have cut for the bottom or should I use the 3/8" material for the bottom piece and the 1/2" piece that is originally had for the bottom to make the top eurobracing?? Does that sense?
