depresed34
Premium Member
Super Reef Octopus XP8000 question diy?
Super Reef Octopus XP8000 question diy?
has anybody made large cone skimmer?
Super Reef Octopus XP8000 question diy?
has anybody made large cone skimmer?
Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
I'm doing a small modification project to some tanks I picked up. I've done some acrylic work before successfully, and used WO-4 to do it.
However I went by the acrylic shop today and they were out of WO-4, they only had WO-3, and he wasn't sure when he'd be getting more 4 (he said they were back ordered).
He also said they very recently reformulated WO-3 in an attempt to better comply with California law and it now has a longer set time and should be fine. I picked up the can (I can always return it) but I am a little concerned. Thankfully this is a small project (building an external overflow box), but does what he said have any truth to it, and should I proceed or wait until he's able to get some more #4?
However I went by the acrylic shop today and they were out of WO-4, they only had WO-3, and he wasn't sure when he'd be getting more 4 (he said they were back ordered).
He also said they very recently reformulated WO-3 in an attempt to better comply with California law and it now has a longer set time and should be fine. I picked up the can (I can always return it) but I am a little concerned. Thankfully this is a small project (building an external overflow box), but does what he said have any truth to it, and should I proceed or wait until he's able to get some more #4?
I can't comment on a different set time, but yep - IPS has changed it's formulation several times in the last few years to meet southern California's "environmental standards". For a while they were putting out a special solvent just for CA labeled WO-4SC if I recall correctly.
WO3 works just as well as 4 and is just as strong, if not stronger, just that the working time is a little shorter. Maybe do a couple of practice joints to see if it works for ya?
James
PaPa_Johnny
Premium Member
James, thanks for you reply that's kinda of what I'm thinking
that the seams are very questionable. I was hoping you had better news for me.If I add a piece of 1/2" (or should it be thicker?) material at each corner as a gusset, (say 3/4" wide) what do you think the safety of the sump will be? I have to completely break down the tank to remove the sump and I am not sure if it's worth the risk of reusing this POS sigh. If the side separated like that, and it appears to be running down the entire side, the bottom could next yes? It's to bad I bought this so long ago........
Provided you can get the gussets to glue in there, should be okay, but, if the joints are breaking clean because bad material was used - no way of knowing how long the "fix" will last.James, thanks for you reply that's kinda of what I'm thinkingIf I add a piece of 1/2" (or should it be thicker?) material at each corner as a gusset, (say 3/4" wide) what do you think the safety of the sump will be?me too
could be, very difficult to say, but yep - other joints could go as well
Not knowing what your budget concerns are, I'd try the gussets and start saving for a new sump - best to at least be prepared
James
805reef
New member
i have some 1/2" acrylic that i am trying to do a project with for my feeder... what would you suggest is my best option for cutting it? I have a dremel & circular saw, but no special blades for either. i would need to make both long cuts all the way across the piece of acrylic, and also will need to cut a square hole out of the middle of one of the pieces.
evoracer
New member
Question for the experts here:
I have a tank that is going to be top-down view. It is made from 1/2" acrylic. I want to enlarge the opening, leaving about an inch around the top. This means I need to cut off about an inch or so. I have at my disposal a router, a jigsaw, and a circular saw. I was thinking I would use the jigsaw or circular saw to rough cut the opening. Then cut a template out of MDF to the exact size I want and use the router to finish the hole. Then go over the opening with a 45 degree knockdown bit on the router. If I use the circular or jigsaw what type of blade would you recommend? Thanks in advance!
I have a tank that is going to be top-down view. It is made from 1/2" acrylic. I want to enlarge the opening, leaving about an inch around the top. This means I need to cut off about an inch or so. I have at my disposal a router, a jigsaw, and a circular saw. I was thinking I would use the jigsaw or circular saw to rough cut the opening. Then cut a template out of MDF to the exact size I want and use the router to finish the hole. Then go over the opening with a 45 degree knockdown bit on the router. If I use the circular or jigsaw what type of blade would you recommend? Thanks in advance!
First, I would like to say that I have read every page of this awesome "class" on working with acrylic and would like to thank the "experts" for continuing to answer questions and help the continuous stream of "newbies" out!
Here's my problem....I've been practicing on some scrap from the local plastic shop and some WO#4. I had the shop cut my pieces, routed the edges, used the pins method and have been getting horrible dry-looking joints. I've tried numerous thickness pins, wire; varying soak times, right angle jig...everything I've read about here.
So last night, I remembered a question from a while back and decided to look on the bottom of my can of #4 and low and behold it says "Mar 05"...could this be part of the problem? Also, the brand of acrylic is Marga CIPTA (I know it's not one of the "top 3") but has anyone had any known problems with this brand?
Again, thanks for the help!
Travis
Here's my problem....I've been practicing on some scrap from the local plastic shop and some WO#4. I had the shop cut my pieces, routed the edges, used the pins method and have been getting horrible dry-looking joints. I've tried numerous thickness pins, wire; varying soak times, right angle jig...everything I've read about here.
So last night, I remembered a question from a while back and decided to look on the bottom of my can of #4 and low and behold it says "Mar 05"...could this be part of the problem? Also, the brand of acrylic is Marga CIPTA (I know it's not one of the "top 3") but has anyone had any known problems with this brand?
Again, thanks for the help!
Travis
troylee
In Memoriam
well if you dont need to glue it, use the circular saw...your best bet would be borrow a router thou...
troylee
In Memoriam
sounds good but i hope 1" is enough strength to hold the tank...it was built with a 2" euro for a reason thou....anywho to answer your question bosch t101a0 blades work very well and cut clean....
troylee
In Memoriam
for sure it is.... alot of skimmer parts etc. are made from a pvc sheet....
troylee
In Memoriam
First, I would like to say that I have read every page of this awesome "class" on working with acrylic and would like to thank the "experts" for continuing to answer questions and help the continuous stream of "newbies" out!
Here's my problem....I've been practicing on some scrap from the local plastic shop and some WO#4. I had the shop cut my pieces, routed the edges, used the pins method and have been getting horrible dry-looking joints. I've tried numerous thickness pins, wire; varying soak times, right angle jig...everything I've read about here.
So last night, I remembered a question from a while back and decided to look on the bottom of my can of #4 and low and behold it says "Mar 05"...could this be part of the problem? Also, the brand of acrylic is Marga CIPTA (I know it's not one of the "top 3") but has anyone had any known problems with this brand?
Again, thanks for the help!
Travis
you have 2 problems there..
#1 the mc. has long evaporated in that wo4 "toss it"..
#2 that material is okay from my exp. but i never built a tank with it because it never glues real clean....
what are you building with it?? reactors and such it would be okay but i would'nt use it for a pressure vessel....
The old solvent could certainly have something to do with it, however that won't be the end of the issues with this material. It's not a bad material for what it is and the price, but not designed with "easy" gluing in mind. It has a higher than normal molecular weight so it won't break down very easily with solvents. The higher mole wt makes it less prone to crazing which is desired, but bad solvent joints are an inherent side effect.
This is one of those reasons that we recommend only the 3 brands - consistency
HTH,
James
I'll go back today and pick up a new can.
I'm not making anything particular right now...I just got the shop to give me some scrap to practise my gluing...
Thanks!
Travis
The old solvent could certainly have something to do with it, however that won't be the end of the issues with this material. It's not a bad material for what it is and the price, but not designed with "easy" gluing in mind. It has a higher than normal molecular weight so it won't break down very easily with solvents. The higher mole wt makes it less prone to crazing which is desired, but bad solvent joints are an inherent side effect.
This is one of those reasons that we recommend only the 3 brands - consistency
HTH,
James
Oh, I'm definitely going with one of the "big 3" when I build something for real...thanks to the "consistency"
of James' recommendations for those brands!
henrystyle
Member
big 3 is big money!Oh, I'm definitely going with one of the "big 3" when I build something for real...thanks to the "consistency"
troylee
In Memoriam
tanks are one of the cheapest things in this hobby... spend the extra money, or you will regret it....
Yep, IME the tank is 10-12% of the entire system and about the only think you can't allow to fail. Just about everything else can fall apart and the animals will be okay, but not the tank.
Making it 12% of the system rather than 11% seems like a rather cheap insurance policy, and not doing it seems rather, well, dumb
James
Hey guys...
I'm getting some bad looking seams and I was hoping that a few of you could maybe give me some pointers and getting better...I've tried waiting anywhere from 15 to 45 sec using WO4 and tried pins and small guitar strings as well.
The only thing I haven't tried is a different applicator, I'm using the little bottle with a 25gauge (I think) needle. Oh, and I route my edges and clean them when I'm done so the edges should be fine...I think it has to be my technique.
Anyway, here's the pics and THANKS in advance for your help!
and a second piece...
I'm getting some bad looking seams and I was hoping that a few of you could maybe give me some pointers and getting better...I've tried waiting anywhere from 15 to 45 sec using WO4 and tried pins and small guitar strings as well.
The only thing I haven't tried is a different applicator, I'm using the little bottle with a 25gauge (I think) needle. Oh, and I route my edges and clean them when I'm done so the edges should be fine...I think it has to be my technique.
Anyway, here's the pics and THANKS in advance for your help!
and a second piece...
