Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

[Bax]

I recently aquired a 260 gallon peninsula style tank with an end over flow on one end, and a bullet style rounded end on the other. The dims are 83x 24x 30h in 3/4" material. I got it from the PO when a seam that connects the bullet section to the main panels began to seperate. If I'm willing to place the patched side to the wall, is there a way to patch this seam where it will be structurally sound? Appearance would not be critical as the patched seam would be against the wall and I'll figure something out to cover it.

You can see the patch strip that was used as a bandaid

Originally, I was just going to cut off the bullet end and patch in a new 3/4" end pannel, but, in addition to loosing capacity, the bullet end is cool!

I was wondering if routing the seam from the outside and filling with a heavier WO like 40 or 42 would do it? Even if I had to form and place a new 1/4" exterior patch piece over that new seam for saftey.

 

[noobtothereef]

quick question, making a frag tank, 48"x24"x12" deep, wih eurobraced top, would you make it with 3/8" or half? it will have just the eurobraced top and no center brace.

 

[Belgian Anthias]

It is posible with Adheseal from Innotec. It is a modificated silaan polymere. It is normaly used to seal car windows.
It is possible to make small acrylic aqua with it the same way you can make glass aqua with silicon. We did this with good results. It should work for bigger aqua also because the seal is very strong but we did not try this.
I don't know if this product is available in America, but you can always ask Innotec on http://www.innotec-industrie.be/be/Webshop/Kitten en lijmen/Adheseal /19/81/

 

[Belgian Anthias]

sealing acrylic

sealing acrylic

It is posible with Adheseal from Innotec. It is a modificated silaan polymere. It is normaly used to seal car windows.
It is possible to make small acrylic aqua with it the same way you can make glass aqua with silicon. We did this with good results. It should work for bigger aqua also because the seal is very strong but we did not try this.
I don't know if this product is available in America, but you can always ask Innotec on http://www.innotec-industrie.be/be/Webshop/Kitten en lijmen/Adheseal /19/81/

 

[crsaz]

I know this isnt a fabrication question bu I wanted to get your opinion on this(link) scratch removal kit. is there a better method you would recommend?

 

[troylee]

quick question, making a frag tank, 48"x24"x12" deep, wih eurobraced top, would you make it with 3/8" or half? it will have just the eurobraced top and no center brace.

3/8" material would be fine with a 3" euro around the perimeter no center brace... althou i would use 1/2" just for the ease of fabrication.....

 

[troylee]

i've been buying my acrylic from tapplastics.com but the larger sheets are expensive. if i wanted some bigger panels to build my own sump, what would be a good place to purchase these?

i live in CT and sometimes work in NYC. local would be best but i can order by mail if cheaper.

im sure there is plenty of plastics shops local... i wouldn't order any sheets the shipping is a killer!!!! check your local yellow pages under plastic suppliers or plastic manufacturing... even sign shops could point you in the right direction...

 

[zaheda]

Im thinking of having a 1m cube, 60cm high, acryllic tank. In South Africa most people use glass. I want to try acyllic and read all about guys with acryllic tanks. Will 10mm work, and what thickness base should be safe. What kind of bracing at the top, as well as overflow. Any pics with guys having a similar size tank would be great.

 

[troylee]

1/2" acrylic "12.7mm" would do the trick.... 3" euro brace.....

 

[crsaz]

oops forgot the link to the scratch removal kit

http://micro-surface.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_221_222&products_id=43

 

[troylee]

micro mesh are the best kits to use.....

 

[troylee]

I recently aquired a 260 gallon peninsula style tank with an end over flow on one end, and a bullet style rounded end on the other. The dims are 83x 24x 30h in 3/4" material. I got it from the PO when a seam that connects the bullet section to the main panels began to seperate. If I'm willing to place the patched side to the wall, is there a way to patch this seam where it will be structurally sound? Appearance would not be critical as the patched seam would be against the wall and I'll figure something out to cover it.

You can see the patch strip that was used as a bandaid

Originally, I was just going to cut off the bullet end and patch in a new 3/4" end pannel, but, in addition to loosing capacity, the bullet end is cool!

I was wondering if routing the seam from the outside and filling with a heavier WO like 40 or 42 would do it? Even if I had to form and place a new 1/4" exterior patch piece over that new seam for saftey.

if it were me and you wanted to save the bullet and make it useable again, i would valley out the seam maybe run a router down it with a 45* bit and cast the seam with weldon 42 and buff it back out like it was originally.....
it should hold but i can't gaurantee it, and im wandering why it failed in the first place......:sad2:

 

[Bax]

if it were me and you wanted to save the bullet and make it useable again, i would valley out the seam maybe run a router down it with a 45* bit and cast the seam with weldon 42 and buff it back out like it was originally.....
it should hold but i can't gaurantee it, and im wandering why it failed in the first place......:sad2:

troylee

Thanks, I was hoping that would be worth a chance. How deep should the seam be routed into the 3/4" material?

I have not water tested the tank yet but the original owner said it began to seperate slowly on the outside. Far enough that a piece of paper could be sliped into the gap. That's when the patch was applied. The original owner said it did not leak any more after the patch.

The tank was replaced by the builder. The builder now staggers the seams so they aren't right at the bend of the bullet as they are on this tank.

I really would like to save the bullet and the tank volume if possible, it's worth a try! :fish1:

 

[Baldwin]

I'm looking to build a 22x13x40 aquarium for water storage and mixing. I am a total noob, it's going to be in a cabinet so someone suggested that it would be a good idea to try and build it myself. I am looking for the cheapest way possible to do it, so building it myself may be the best bet. My question is what materials I need, where is a good place to get acrylic (how thick) and what procedure should I use?

 

[crsaz]

micro mesh are the best kits to use.....

Ok cool, One more question the tank originaly had a pond foam back ground, I have removed this after about 6 hours of carfully scraping but there is about a 1-2 mm thick layer left on the back, should I go at it with some fine grit sandpaper(if so what grit 600?) of should I just see if the micro mesh kits will take care of it?

olso the kit says it takes care of 100sqft, I will be cutting it close, should I order two or will they do more? the thank is 96"x30"x30" I will be buff it in-side and out.

 

[jimnrose]

I built 6 tank tops using 1/16" materialfor 24" x 9" sizes. Tey all warped despite adding ribbing. Sooooo, I need to fab some new covers but instead of guessing on the thickness, I'm hoping for direction. Jim

 

[BeanAnimal]

You are going to be hard pressed to stop warping... the acrylic absorbs water on the bottom side and is kept dry on the top side (air and lights). This is going to force the lower surface to expand and the upper surface to contract with considerable force...

That is, the lower surface will expand by about anywhere from 0.2% to 1% compared to the upper surface.
So the 24" length on the lower side will expand by almost 1/16" up to 1/4" !


Polycarbonate is slightly less absorbative.

Tempered glass is an option....

 

[jimnrose]

Beananimal, thanks for your input. I'll try to redefine the cut-out details (needed for the return water fittings) to allow for easier glass cutting. I'll also compare the price etc.
Other details:
- Light transmission would be about the same.
- glass or acrylic covers would reduce the gas exchange. I have a125g display (with your overflow box) directly feeding a 29g sump with Oct-x 200 skimmer plus a 29 g fuge. With the glass (or acrylic) covering the display tank reduce the oxygen content of the water. I'm moving 800 gph to/from the sump, plus 3 powerheads in the display. The return water also aggitates the surface water. Hope you followed this. (water is flowing over the weir in the over flow box, over the weir in the sump).
Jim

 

[jt48]

I'm about to drill a 1.75" hole in a 3/4" acrylic aquarium for a bulkhead using a hole saw. Any suggestions to avoid splintering or other problems? The bulkhead is for the return line so it will be in the top corner of the aquarium. Do I need to stay a certain distance away from the edge of the aquarium?

 

[mudskipper1]

James/Acrylics, I know I read somewhere that you mix your own solvent from a few different chemicals. I have access to Methylene chloride solvent from the Chemistry Lab I work in, as well as acetic acid. Was there anything else you include in your mixture? You also gave specific concentrations used. What benefits does mixing give over just using Methylene chloride or putting shavings in to increase viscosity? I just can't find that post.

Also, I am building a 15"x15"x13" display from 1/4" plexiglas G with a 2" brace around the top, but not having a good router, they will be 4 separate pieces welded together. Do you think this will be sufficient?

As I don't have easy access to a router, i was planning on sanding with a block and then scraping the edges before using the solvent. What method of bonding would be easiest for a pretty new guy to this. I helped build a few 55 gallon tanks several years ago, but they didn't have to look that good. Should I try to use the wire and pull method? or just go with straight capillary welding?

Thanks for your time.