Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

[noobtothereef]

Shouldn't need to, just build yourself an overhead router base. This will enable you to get all edges to within a coupla thousanths with very good edge quality

James

Im assuming your talking about the same type of router jig used to square tube ends? I cant believe i didnt think of that, i have actually made one of these to true some tubes. This one will have to be a little taller lol

also for the router i mentioned above i believe this baseplate for work for making the overhead router table jig
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?...leBase&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=Google

 

[ChiiBear]

How thick should acrylic be based on X inches of height?

Does total volume of water make a difference? Meaning, does a 4x2x2' (LxWxH) tank allow for thinner acrylic than a 8x4x2' tank since there's less water even though both are only 24" tall?

I found these questions in "New acrylic FAQ thread" thread. Were they answered here? I couldn't find the answers. Thanks!

 

[Acrylics]

james or others, im looking for a video or a tutorial for doing "butt" joint casting acrylic,

Good luck finding anything actually good or useful on this. What you are asking is for someone to really give away and broadcast trade secrets which for practical purposes - simply ain't gonna happen....just bein' honest with ya

building a tank, 36" depth for 96" and then the end 24" will be 54" deep, i am wanting to build the entire tank out of 1", will that be sufficient for the 54" depth on the end "step" of the tank? all bottom seams on the tank will be double seamed with an additional 1"x2" strip on the bottom inside corner for added bonding area, the jump in cost from 1" to 1.25" acryic is huge, the end that is 54" deep will be a drape formed bullnose so no corner seams, am i crazy??

Would need to see an actual drawing to make any determinations on this. But, "double seaming" does not add strength as a generality and *can* actually weaken the initial seams.

Also, i will be cutting my own sheets as the plastic shop doesnt want to fuss with cutting it for any less than $1000 in case they mess it up, so ive been searching for a good saw and blade, i have a 7 1/4" circular saw but its too small for the blade im looking at. The blade im looking at is an amana 8" circular saw blade for cutting acrylic found here
http://www.amanatool.com/circular-saw-blades/non-melt-lb86401.html
heres the saw im looking at
http://www.dewalt.com/tools/saws-circular-saws-dw384.aspx
the saw is 15 amp but im not sure if it ill be powerfull enough to cut 1" acrylic and might have to look into a more powerfull saw, but then again im used to rough cutting acrylic ith a wood blade and expierience melting to some degree and drags the blade , the ne blade should take care of this.

heres the router i am debating on getting
http://www.milwaukeetool.com/tools/...eed-feedback-circuitry-and-soft-start/5625-20
3 1/4hp so it should have plenty of power to route the 1" and thicker acrylics
now i need to find the best router bits, i will need a bit for trimming the saw cut edges and also a bit using a bearing to trim the edges once assembled, both being capable of cutting the 1" thick material. Any ideas?

I simply can't recommend a handheld saw for cutting 1" material in a straight line, just can't. Really should be done on a large table saw or panel saw.

As for routers and bits, I use Port Cable 3 1/4hp routers pretty much exclusively as do most fabricators that use these thicknesses often. For the flush trim bits, I use Whiteside solid carbide spiral upcut bits, usually run around $65-85 depending on where you buy, but IMO these are simply the best. For edge prep bits, I use 1.5" diameter 2 flute straight cutters, bigger diameter means faster cutting speed and better chip clearance. I don't worry about brands for these as long as they are good cutters. The original cutting edges are often poor and you really should find a good saw guy who can get resharpen the cutters to better than new. It's a worthwhile investment in time IMO.

James

 

[Acrylics]

I found these questions in "New acrylic FAQ thread" thread. Were they answered here? I couldn't find the answers. Thanks!

Yep, answered in this thread, but you may have to go back a ways or look at the previous threads. This particular thread has been split a few times over the years. I don't know when they were answered but I do remember answering it.. Let me know what size you are doing and I can usually give you thickness requirements.

HTH,
James

 

[ChiiBear]

Yep, answered in this thread, but you may have to go back a ways or look at the previous threads. This particular thread has been split a few times over the years. I don't know when they were answered but I do remember answering it.. Let me know what size you are doing and I can usually give you thickness requirements.

HTH,
James

I currently have a TruVu 75g RR, 48 x 18 x 20H, 3/8" thick wall and top, 1/4" bottom, with two openings 17"x 8.5" each and two filter slots 12" x 2", 10" x 2" on the top. After 4 years, maybe around 1/8" bowing in the middle, I'll say I'm pretty happy with it. I actually did not notice there was a bowing until I put a ruler against the front tank wall.
I'm going to upgrade to TRuVu 100g RR, 48 x 24 x 20H with two opeings 18" x 14" at the top, no filter slots, wider but not taller than my 75g. TruVu said it'll be the same thickness, that is 3/8" thick wall and top, 1/4" bottom.

The quote for a 1/2" goes up roughly 90% more than that of 3/8", I guess it's probably material cost plus that it is now a custom made and not a standard one.

1. Will I experience the same amount of bowing with the different width and openings?
2. Is it worthwhile to go to 1/2", consider 90% jump of the cost.

Thank you so much, James!

 

[Acrylics]

I currently have a TruVu 75g RR, 48 x 18 x 20H, 3/8" thick wall and top, 1/4" bottom, with two openings 17"x 8.5" each and two filter slots 12" x 2", 10" x 2" on the top. After 4 years, maybe around 1/8" bowing in the middle, I'll say I'm pretty happy with it. I actually did not notice there was a bowing until I put a ruler against the front tank wall.
I'm going to upgrade to TRuVu 100g RR, 48 x 24 x 20H with two opeings 18" x 14" at the top, no filter slots, wider but not taller than my 75g. TruVu said it'll be the same thickness, that is 3/8" thick wall and top, 1/4" bottom.

The quote for a 1/2" goes up roughly 90% more than that of 3/8", I guess it's probably material cost plus that it is now a custom made and not a standard one.

1. Will I experience the same amount of bowing with the different width and openings?
2. Is it worthwhile to go to 1/2", consider 90% jump of the cost.

Thank you so much, James!

I don't know the costs you've been quoted, but for whatever it's worth, the material cost difference for the whole tank would be about $50. As you surmised, the difference for them is probably that it goes to the custom shop, which does take more time and more skilled workers are required.

The bowing will be the same 'cuz the front top flange should remain at 3" with the same 6" center brace. If you want to upgrade and it's not too much money - go for the upgrade. But if your happy with your current tank, I couldn't argue with ya stickin' with the same Even 1/4" will hold water - it's what they use for their 55gal tanks (48 x 13 x 20"H)

James

 

[ChiiBear]

Thank you so much, James!!!

 

[noobtothereef]

got aanother question james/acrylics, using wledon #4 , weldon #16 and weldon #40 on acrylic to pvc and pvc to pvc create as strong of a joint as acrylic to acrylic?

 

[blackizzz]

James, i it wasnt akrifix 116 But akrifix 192 =P bad memory
Got Any experience of this? This is very messy and tough to apply and not like weld on; /


Sent from my iPhone 3Gs using Tapatalk

//Blackizzz

 

[theshiver]

Acrylics/Troylee can this be repaired ??

Acrylics/Troylee can this be repaired ??

This is my 600 120x36x30 it has never been setup just a water test when I bought it that is how this happened the stand was not full length what a dumd a## move anyway thanks for looking

 

[noobtothereef]

now that i read that it was on a stand that wasnt full length i can see why the seam started seperating,

 

[theshiver]

Yes not the smartest move but I checked all the other joints and they are crystal clear

 

[theshiver]

Bump

 

[theshiver]

Still needing expert advice on tank repair thanks

 

[gindobuck]

after reading a couple diy frag tank builds, i finally decided to build my first frag tank.
i was hoping to build a frag tank with the dimensions 44x17x12 LxWxH
would 1/2 thick acrylic be good perfect, too much?
also do you recommend using weldon 4 or something that bonds slower?

 

[gindobuck]

i was leaning towards the 1/2 cause i heard it would be easier to weldon if i was gonna use weldon 4. especially if this is my first build.
so just to confirm would my 5 plates have this dimension if i was going to build a 44x17x12 1/2 thick acrylic with a 3 inch eurobrace?

bottom- 44x17x1/2
2 sides-long- 44x11.5x1/2
2 sides-wide- 43x11.5x1/2

euro brace
2 brace long- 44x3x1/4
2 brace wide- 38x3x1/4

 

[Acrylics]

Still needing expert advice on tank repair thanks

Personally, I'm not buyin' the idea that filling this on a shorter stand caused this. There is no reason for a joint to separate like that, none whatsoever. Given that, IMO the rest of the tank is suspect.

i was leaning towards the 1/2 cause i heard it would be easier to weldon if i was gonna use weldon 4. especially if this is my first build.
so just to confirm would my 5 plates have this dimension if i was going to build a 44x17x12 1/2 thick acrylic with a 3 inch eurobrace?

bottom- 44x17x1/2
2 sides-long- 44x11.5x1/2
2 sides-wide- 43x11.5x1/2

euro brace
2 brace long- 44x3x1/4
2 brace wide- 38x3x1/4

not sure at all where the 43" & 38" numbers are coming from...

If I were making this, the cut would be as follows:
2 pcs. 44.25 x 11" front/back
2 pcs. 16 x 11" ends
2 pcs. 44.25 x 17.25" top/bottom
...all out of "good" 1/2" acrylic, meaning Polycast, Acrylite GP, or Plexi-Glas G, in this order of preference and *only* these brands.

I don't like the idea of making the top from 4 separate pcs, IMO should be made from a single piece and route out the inside.
Also, the way you have the cut list; you'd have to flush-glue all joints, this is a mistake IMO. Should leave a little at each eand and then flush-cut that little flange off after the solvent cures.
..and Weld-on 4 is fine, you *generally* won't find anything slower on the market today.
If you need a bit of a tutorial, search for a thread I did a few yrs ago called "DIY Tank, step by step" with me as author. I've only authored 3-4 threads so should be easy to find

HTH,
James

 

[txmike2]

going to do a 24"X24"X12" LxWxH tank will 1/4" be ok with a 3" euro brace?

 

[Acrylics]

going to do a 24"X24"X12" LxWxH tank will 1/4" be ok with a 3" euro brace?

Yep, should be fine, just be sure to use good material, meaning Polycast, Acrylite GP, or Plexi-Glas G, in this order of preference and *only* these brands IMO

James

 

[txmike2]

cool it is good stuff Acrylite GP .Thanks