Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
if you're asking me where to buy cheap acrylic, I couldn't tell ya. I don't do cheap
I buy good stuff or I don't bother.absolutely, 3" all around, minimum.
James
US Marine Coral
New member
Would a 48x14x12High 1/2in acrylic tank have a problem with bowing?
as a rimless tank - yes
There is an insane amount of info in this thread, and I want to get through it eventually, but can someone point me to a good "acrylic 101" ? I know a google search will give me a million places to look, but I'd prefer looking at something that someone with some knowledge has checked out to be accurate....I'd just like to get my basics down first.. Not only how to, but with some layman term descriptions of how the bonding actually works and stuff... (with all the splits, I don't have any idea if I've scanned right past something like that )
bigbear4x43
New member
if you're asking me where to buy cheap acrylic, I couldn't tell ya. I don't do cheap
absolutely, 3" all around, minimum.
James
didnt mean cheap material but cheap price for same kind of good qty of material prices i know you get what you pay for looking for good product but save money everyone prices are diferent
Do a search for all threads with me as author and look for "DIY Tank, step by step" I've only done 3 or 4 threads, so should be easy to find. If you have any questions, please feel free to post in that thread
James
The best way is to develop a relationship of some sort with a local distributor or fabricator. Like any other industry, pricing is all about relationships.
Might also help to know where you are located
James
I do, but you can get away with using thinner on the bottom. I'd recommend 1" for everything else
James
vthondaboi
Premium Member
Ok so the top three brands of cell cast so far have been Polycast, Acrylite GP(seems to be discontinued right?), and Plexiglass G.
I found some Arkema G which is supposedly Plexiglass since they got bought out but is it the same quality?
Next best I found so far is Lucite or Chemcast. Would you recommend any of the extruded stuff over these two?
I found some Arkema G which is supposedly Plexiglass since they got bought out but is it the same quality?
Next best I found so far is Lucite or Chemcast. Would you recommend any of the extruded stuff over these two?
Acrylite GP hasn't been discontinued as far as I know, just now made in China. They say they've made improvements over the original Chinese stuff, but I haven't played with it yet so don't really know.
Haven't seen "Arkema G" but should be the same stuff. See if it's made in Mexico as well.
FWIW, Arkema bought Plexi-Glas quite some time ago
If you found Lucite L sheet, it's good stuff but rarely made over 1/4". If you found Lucite CP or CPX, it's just extruded. CPX has a slightly higher mole wt but still nothing near a cast material and the surface quality left a lot to be desired.
If indeed you found Lucite L, then use that if the thickness works for ya.
As for Chemcast, I don't consider it for these applications. I've seen *far* too many tanks blow out that used this material.
After Polycast, Acrylite GP, Plex G, and the Lucite L, I'd be looking at Acrylite FF which is the best of the extruded materials, by far IMO.
James
serpentman
part time superhero
Wondered if I might borrow your expertise Acrylics for a moment. I am picking up a used 300g for a FOWLR project. The overall tank dimensions are 96"L x 24"W x 30"H. The tank has been up for several years and is in good shape. The only concern I have is the acrylic thickness. Based on what I can remember, it was 1/2" with eurobracing and there was a slight bow to the front.
Should I be concerned? Is there anything I can do to add structural integrity?
Should I be concerned? Is there anything I can do to add structural integrity?
If it's actually 1/2", I would walk, no, run away, but just my personal opinion. That tank should be made from 3/4" at an absolute minimum. 1/2" will hold, but...
And no, nothing you can do will make it any better
Yep, sure can
MC is the primary active ingredient in most acrylic solvents. Straight MC will set and cure very quickly, but if done well - will produce stronger bonds than Weld-on acrylic solvents.James
Mek works, but not too well. If you have a local lab supply house, get a little bottle of glacial acetic acid (min 99%) and use between 5-10% acid solution. This will slow the reaction down and make the solvent flow better in the joint.
Do not exceed 10% acid, it'll make the joint look grainy and not clear.
For acrylic, look in the yellow pages under Plastics, distributors, sheet, rod, & tube or something to this effect. Every major city has a few distributors to choose from. Just make sure you get good acrylic; Polycast, Acrylite GP, or Plexi-Glas G, these names only and in this order of preference. If you are building something that doesn't need to be holding water, then extruded is fine and Acrylite FF is by far the best IMO.
HTH,
James
James, thanks again. I'm replacing three 1/8" tank covers (20" x20" directly over three opening in my acrylic 125g tank) lodue to warpage and change in my return plumbing.
I need the covers to protect the LED's from corrosion (salt).
Plan to use 1/4" panels plus ribs in both axis to reduce the warpages.
I guess all acrylics are hostile to the humidity and the thicker the bette plus cross ribs will reduce the warpage.
Jim
I need the covers to protect the LED's from corrosion (salt).
Plan to use 1/4" panels plus ribs in both axis to reduce the warpages.
I guess all acrylics are hostile to the humidity and the thicker the bette plus cross ribs will reduce the warpage.
Jim
Unfortunately, it'll still warp
I've made lotsa covers out of 1" acrylic and they warp too.. IMO use polycarbonate for covers. Polycarb is nearly as clear as acrylic and virtually unbreakable James
