Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

[Floyd R Turbo]

anything really, WO #3, #4, #16, etc should be fine. A paper-thin gap is fine. I'm not sure I understand "binder paper" as being any different from regular looseleaf or printer paper, so if it's not, then that's fine. Wick in the solvent and put a little weight on it (5lb should be plenty) and that should seal it up nicely

 

[Aquatron]

Thank you for your input i think binder paper dates me yes same as print paper.

 

[noplay180]

Whats the best way to remove baffles from sump

Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Cleanly? Nothing LOL. You pretty much have to hack them out with a sawsall or an oscillating tool.

 

[camaroboy8691]

floyd , been reading your thread for a while now . and originally building a wooden tank with acylic ends , but work , and alot of other things got in the way of that project and canned the wooden tank i started . but i already have 1" acrylic arkema brand .

so my question is , im planing on using the 1" i got , its 4x8 sheets , and building a 72" wide 36" tall 48" deep tank , this will get the most out of my 2 sheets , but i need to order 2 more sheets for the top and bottom ............... so my question , will 1/2 be enough for top and bottom or should i go with 3/4 material ?

in the past i did have a ten e cor tank that was 1/2 top and bottom and 3/4 sides , it was a 4 deep 96 long 30 tall tank , so im guessing what i want to do will be ok , but i always like to ask just incase .


thanks !

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Probably 3/4 would be fine for the bottom and as for the top, it depends on the size of the access holes / width of the euro. Probably a better question for James/Acrylics, you might try sending him a PM and see if he'll post an answer for you

 

[Jacob Sellers]

Minimum Dry time for Weldon 16

Minimum Dry time for Weldon 16

I had to patch a small leak in my sump what is the minimum dry time for Weldon 16 before water can be added? thanks.

 

[camaroboy8691]

Probably 3/4 would be fine for the bottom and as for the top, it depends on the size of the access holes / width of the euro. Probably a better question for James/Acrylics, you might try sending him a PM and see if he'll post an answer for you

i cant send him a pm ... all booked up from others .


im thinking i might just go with 3/4 top and bottom.... if im thinking right , ill only do 2 cut outs on top ..... roughly 2ft wide and 3ft long , this will give me 6" on sides , and then if i space them right ill have 1ft inbetween the 2 cutouts and then 1ft on each end of those . which should be plenty .


that 4x8 tencr had 3 2x2 cutouts in it .

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Depends on the type of repair and how you performed it. More info please, pics if you have them

 

[wastedtime]

This is a really informative thread.
I am looking at making 2 acrylic tanks with the following dimensions :

1. 14" x 14" x 8.5" ~ 7.2 Gallons
2. 24" x 18" x 9" ~ 16.8 Gallons

Can I get away with using 1/4" Acrylic ? Do I need to brace them ? I would like to avoid bracing if possible.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Depends on which is the height and which is the length. Cyro calculator results:

14 h x 8.5 l -> .216
8.5 h x 14 l -> .195

9 h x 18 l -> .231
9 h x 24 l -> .254

1/4" is .236 so as you see, you're pushing it. I personally would never make anything rimless unless is was minimum 3/8". The larger one I would do 1/2". Then make sure you're using top material and best practices on prep and bonding methods.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Depends on which is the height and which is the length. Cyro calculator results:

14 h x 8.5 l -> .216
8.5 h x 14 l -> .195

9 h x 18 l -> .231
9 h x 24 l -> .254

1/4" is .236 so as you see, you're pushing it. I personally would never make anything rimless unless is was minimum 3/8". The larger one I would do 1/2". Then make sure you're using top material and best practices on prep and bonding methods.

EDIT: those are for rimless. Add a eurobrace and the 9 x 24 goes down to .169

 

[wastedtime]

Got it .. thanks for your help. moving up from 1/4" to 3/8" and 1/2" makes a significant difference in costs.. but I think its worth paying for now.. rather than having to deal with water on the carpet.

 

[legg_man]

I have a large Aquatic Systems Design calcium reactor that has a pesky leak at the bottom where the tube is attached to the black base. The tube is 1/8 inch acrylic and fitted to the grooved base. I have tried weld on 16 & 4 to seal the inside seal—didn't work. I think there might have been some moisture in the seam when we tried to seal it each time. I am not able to pull it apart to reseal the whole thing. I am going to take it to work and blow it out with compressed air to get it nice and dry. Then try to reseal it.

Should I:

Try weld on again

Try superglue gel (I am not worried if it whitens the acrylic—just want it to work).

Use epoxy putty

Use any combination of the above products

Try something totally different


Thanks,

Larry

 

[dahenley]

if its clean and dry. then i would try WO3/4 and wick it into the joint. then. the next day. i would place a bead of WO16. the 16 will shrink and possibly craze. but it would work better then epoxy and what not. but there must of been moisture to prevent a good seal.

 

[mmljarc]

Have a question for the acrylic experts here, I have never worked with it before. I got a 6 foot (6x2x30") tank over the weekend, and the previous owner dropped his end while helping me load. So, there is now a crack in the rear corner. The crack did not go through to the inside, but I can catch the edge of the crack with a fingernail on both the side and back of the tank. I have ordered some Weld-0n 4 which I plan on using a syringe to inject into the crack on both sides. After that dries, I am planning on using Weld-On 16 to put a 1/2" square rod (about 2 inches long) on the inside of the tank butted against this corner. Fortunately, no rush to fill with water (I have been waiting 10 years to buy this size tank, what's another week, right?)

Pictures of crack:




Clicking on pics will take you to a better resolution..


Thanks!
Jim

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

So he dropped the tank, and you still took it? Bad move man. That is the last place you want a crack. It's at one of the highest pressure point in the tank. I would have told him to keep the tank and walked away.

 

[mmljarc]

Yep, that would have been the smart thing. Do you think my proposed repair will work?

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

I think I need better pictures from all angles

 

[kgross]

The crack does not look that bad, but to repair it, I would be gluing some 3/4 inch square material inside the corner from inside the tank. That would reduce the pressure on that part and help spread the load. The problem of course is what happens if the crack decides to start growing.......