I am also thinking of doing a bigger tank. 72x30x30. According to the builder. I would need a 1/2". Again no rimless. There will be attached top with cut outs and a center brace.
I am also thinking of doing a bigger tank. 72x30x30. According to the builder. I would need a 1/2". Again no rimless. There will be attached top with cut outs and a center brace.
but their info is garbage.. dunno why they can't learn any better?As I do agree that this thread is full of info. Just seeing if everybody uses the Garf site to get there tank builds info and general size of the acrylic since they provide it.
not gonna hurt, but what purpose would this serve?also the way I am thinking about making the 40 breeder and 280 gal tank. The 40 breeder I would like to do a 3/4" top around the edge of the side panels for my bracing.
yes it will bow a little, bit not badly. Your bracing scheme won't help in this though; if just doing a single cross-brace, should make the flange (euro-brace) wider - something more like 4-4.5".The 72"x30"x30", I was thinking of doing two holes in the top. The center bracing being about 6-8" wide and sides of the top being 3" wide. (all of this as you are looking from the top of the tank.)
Will 3/4" still bow a little also?
i have some questions about edge finishing, before assembly.
is there a recommended scraper i could get at home depot?
after the edges are scraped, how should i polish the edges? i have read that flame polishing can lead to future issues.
thanks.
I will pretty much never recommend anything less than 2"I mainly wanted the 40 breeder to be a QT. I might set another one up for a nano reef later. If I set another one up for a reef. Would it be safer for a 1 - 1.5" euro-bracing?
make it wider is the pretty much the only thing that has any effect. It won't help the bowing in the middle of the panel very much, you simply need thicker material for this, but will help immensely at the top and also strain on the joints.What would help with the bracing to help minimize the bowing? Other then increase in thickness.
as previously mentioned, the pieces should be routed smooth and consistent and that's the only edge prep that you should need. Scraping edges is laborious and of only marginal benefit.i have some questions about edge finishing, before assembly.
is there a recommended scraper i could get at home depot?
you don't. Simply routed and then glued. Any polishing; flame or buffing or whatever is done after everything is complete.after the edges are scraped, how should i polish the edges? i have read that flame polishing can lead to future issues.
as previously mentioned, the pieces should be routed smooth and consistent and that's the only edge prep that you should need. Scraping edges is laborious and of only marginal benefit.
you don't. Simply routed and then glued. Any polishing; flame or buffing or whatever is done after everything is complete.
Anyone who says to flame polish prior to gluing is either A) an idiot or B) trying to mess you up. It can/will lead to instant crazing the second any solvent cement is applied.
James
no. not at all.. what are the specific dimensions of the tank?so I called a company to get a price quote for the dimensions of a 40 breeder at 3/8" thickness. For Polycast it came to $500 (est.) and Plexi G $250 (set.) with rough freight charge. Does that sounds about right.
Broken case fee..lmao, what a crock.. the fact is they don't keep it around and will have to order a sheet and they simply don't want to so they give you a price high enough to convince you to use the Plex G.. which is fine, but I still call BS.The dimensions I was are 36" L x 18"W x 16"H with 3/8" thickness. I know I need to compensate for the thickness. This was just get a quote. They also were going to charge me a broken case fee for the polycast because I wont be buying a case. Which I don't like personally. But I didn't know what the price difference was of the two types of acrylic.