Adding phosphates to your tank.

CyanoMagnet

New member
I don't plan to do this. But I have heard other people adding phosphates to their tanks to achieve balance of P and N. How do you add phosphates? What do you use that is?
 
:eek1:

Just feeding the critters in your tank will provide an abundance of phosphate. About the only way possible to have too little P would be aggressive use of large quantities of phosphate removers, in which case just use less phosphate remover. It's far more likely to reduce N too far in a tank.
 
I can't think of an idea much worse than that, to be honest. Short of dumping in some bleach, this is about the best way I can think of (at least potentially) to really screw up an aquarium.

The idea here stems from a GROSS misinterpretation of Redfield ratios and nutritient stoichiometry in algae. First and foremost, Redfield ratios apply to marine phytoplankton, not necessarily to benthic reef algae. While marine phytoplankton average N:P ratios of 16:1, benthic reef algae tend to be closer to 30:1. However, among different algal taxa and under different conditions those ratios can and do vary from 8:1 to over 45:1. Redfield's genius was in explaining how and why nutrient levels in the deep sea have the 15:1 ratio that they do--phytoplankton populations over long periods of time and including thousands of species come out to a mean ratio of 16:1. Their cells are the primary source of N and P to the deep sea. With a bit of denitrification, you end up with the 15:1 ratio observed. If the N:P ratio in the tank water (and these are molar ratios, not mass ratios) is higher than 16:1 that DOES NOT mean that the algae in the tank are P-limited. If the ratios are lower than 16:1 that DOES NOT mean the algae are N-limited. They could just as easily be light-limited, or Fe-limited, or grazing-limited, or limited by all sorts of factors.

As I said, this is gross misapplication of some very interesting and very relevant ecological theory.

Chris
 
I agree with Bill and Chris,adding phos. is nothing but potentialy hazardous.I've been hearing a lot of people talking about nitrate dosing too.NSW has an (N) level of 0.050 mg/l,way lower than any aquarium.The only thing it will help is algae blooms.
 
I do remember reading about how in clam farms (tridacna) they are fed nitrate sources to keep growth going strong, though that's hardly if ever required for a home aquarium that has continual additions of nitrate and phosphate in large, uncontrolled quantities from the addition of food.

There was a great article in last month's(?) Coral magazine about the C:N:P ratios. The cover of the mag had coral fluorescence.

We've been touched by his noodley appendage... (MCsaxmaster's avatar :p)
 
I've done it before to fix a tank that had used excessive GFO to the point the his macro algaes were crashing, while nitrates were in the 10ppm range.

I used Monopotassium Phosphate. Its a salt commonly used in the foods we eat, or it can be purchased from hydroponics shops.

I did the calculations and added an amount to boost phosphate to 0.08ppm. Things in tank started to open up and look more healthy. In just a few hours it tested undetectable again. I told him to keep boosting it each time it was undetectable until his macro algae and corals started to look healthy again.

After his tank was looking good again, let it fall naturally as the macros grow. I also told him to not add 5lbs of GFO to his 100gal reef in a high flow media reactor all at once again...

Many times I have dosed potasium nitrate to my SPS reef when phosphate becomes >0.04ppm. The burst of macro growth in the fuge rapidly causes the phosphate level to drop.

Best Wishes,
-Luke
 
Do you have a namebrand? I can't see anyone walking in the supermarket and going "wheres the monopotassium Phophate kept ma'am?".
 
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