Adding Sump to 75 Gallon Setup

Reefer2727

New member
Hi All,

Looking for some advice for my 75 gallon marine setup. I am relatively new to the saltwater world. Have kept freshwater and planted tanks for years and figured I was ready for a new challenge.

Long story short, I switched from freshwater to saltwater essentially on the fly and 2 years later I realize that I need a sump. There was never a good time to break my tank down and have it drilled and all I have read on overflow boxes scared me.

As it stands....in the 75 I have around 65 Lbs of live rock and an Aquamedic Turboflotor Multi SL protein skimmer hanging on now, but will end up in my sump. It is mainly fish only right now knowing that my water quality could not support many corals. I know my filtration is a nightmare and need to make a move. I am running an Eheim 2213 and an Eheim 2217. Both canister filters. After some research, it is clear why my nitrates can never get below 25 ppm. Sounds like my canister filters are nitrate farms or traps. I don't have the time to clean the 2 filters weekly. I was thinking I may be better off just replacing the media in the canisters with bio balls or something. Or perhaps taking them right out of the equation. I am using a little aquaclear hang on filter with no media to simply agitate the surface to try to avoid the protein layer.

So many questions, here are a few for now:

Am I better off without the canister filters?

What size hole is standard for drilling?

How many holes and where should I put them?

Is drilling something I should attempt myself?

Is a 29 gallon sump a good choice? I think I am looking at moving about 900 gph when the sump is functioning.


Sorry this was so long. So many questions. Looking forward to hearing some advice.

Thanks
 
Am I better off without the canister filters? Yes, I think you are. Also, putting bio balls in there would only keep your nitrates high. If you want to reduce nitrates, I'd pull the canister filters and focus on keeping your water quality high by skimming well and doing regular water changes. Also, reduce feeding to help reduce waste that is breaking down into nitrates.

What size hole is standard for drilling? You'll probably want a 1.25" bulkhead, so drill the appropriately-sized hole for the bulkhead you end up wanting to install.

How many holes and where should I put them? You might as well drill two holes for drain lines. I wouldn't drill a hole for the return because you'll be drilling the back of the tank, so you'll want to have the drain lines run up and over the top of the tank to return the water from the sump. I'd put the holes in the upper back corners of the tank. Keep them a few inches from the edges of the glass, since you don't want the glass to shatter or crack. You CANNOT drill the bottom of your tank, since the glass is tempered.

Is drilling something I should attempt myself? It's quite easy to do as long as you're patient and have confidence in what you're doing. Try visiting www.Glass-Holes.com for supplies, tips, tricks, etc...

Is a 29 gallon sump a good choice? I think I am looking at moving about 900 gph when the sump is functioning. Fit the largest sump in there that you can. I'd think about lowering your flow to around 500gph. More flow equals more noise and a greater chance of micro bubbles. Also, slower flow will give your protein skimmer more time to skim the water, though it probably won't be enough of a difference for you to notice visually.

-Joe
 
Thanks for the reply schneijt. Much appreciated. You recommend drilling 2 holes for the sump drain, one in each corner. This seems like a good idea. Is it best to angle them to meet before the sump or would it be better to have the drain water enter the sump at both ends and have the return in the middle? It is going to be a DIY sump so anything is possible.

As for the canister filters. Hard to believe my only filtration will be the skimmer and live rock. I did have a feeling that I am doing more harm than good considering I rarely clean the canisters out. I have a few concerns about flow without them. Do you think it would be we to run the filters with absolutely nothing in them? Almost have them act as powerheads until the sump is running?

The glass-holes.com website was very helpful. Being from Canada, I am looking to get my supplies more locally to save a few bucks.

I also like the idea of 500 gph. I had it in my head to run a higher flow when I was thinking about not drilling and going with an overflow box kit. I had heard that with a heavy flow you can push those air bubbles out of the u tubes to avoid flooding disasters. Also makes for a cheaper return pump.

Any advice on return pumps? I assume that an external return sump pump in a drilled sump tank would be better than a submersible? I was surprised to see how pricey external pumps were. I think I may go the cheaper route on this one.

Thanks Again.
 
there is no reason you can't use a submersible return pump.
as for flow in your tank, i'd just powerheads are for, you goal is to find the right balance to keep all the detritus suspended so that it can be pulled out of the tank via the overflow, but not so much flow you have constant sandstorms; it also depends on what corals you keep, some like alot of flow, some like just a little.
if you still want to use the canister filters you can use one of them to run carbon.
 
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