AgentSPS' 300 Gallon ***DreamReef***

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13284920#post13284920 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by thirschmann
Do you foresee a problem with detritus building up under the live rock? Might be a good idea to include a tray at the top you can put filter material in.

Cool sump design. I've always been fascinated by cryptic zones as well.


Well the drain line runs all the way down to the bottom of the rubble tower. There is a 3" gap between the bottom and the first tray which the rubble sits on top of. With this much current, I don't anticipate a lot of the detritus will settle on the bottom of the rubble tower. It will probably end up in the bubble chambers where it will be relatively easy to siphon out. We will see!!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13284920#post13284920 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by thirschmann
Do you foresee a problem with detritus building up under the live rock? Might be a good idea to include a tray at the top you can put filter material in.

Cool sump design. I've always been fascinated by cryptic zones as well.

Can you just throw an army of hermits in there for the detritus?
 
Some progress photos of the sump from manufacturer....

outer walls framed:

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The crating job is perfect. In the end, the product ended up just like it came from my house. Im glad you chose this route.

I cant wait to see water in it. It's love all over again. ;) For myself, I cant think of anything that would out do this tank. Im not sure what I can do to be 100% satisfied again.

Nice M3 by the way! Didnt realize you love cars too.
 
Thought I would share my experience restoring acrylic. So being the type A anal perfectionist that I am, I had to have absolutely flawless acrylic on my overflow. Rockwork had produced some pretty deep scratches and I was not sure that my new aqauscaping would cover them. The process was fairly labor intensive but I am pleased with the results.

The basic process is to sand down the scratches using progressively finer and finer grit sandpaper. I started with 300 using a power sander and went all the way up to 2000 by hand.

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My sump manufacturer recommended going one direction (not circular motion) for one grit and the opposite for the next. This allows you to determine when you have canceled out the scratches from the previous grit. Its easier said than done but worked fairly well.

Here are some pics of the process:

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The finer sandpaper gets really muddy. I was surprised that the slurry has a very strong smell like acrylic solvent.

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Finally after hours of sanding we get to the polish. There is a special grit paste made for acrylic but I elected to just try my car stuff first. I worked great!

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This is a random motion orbital polisher.

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I was relieved to see the shine come back! Few!

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ALL DONE! 1 full days work!

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Now I was able to sleep again knowing there were no scratches left…. OCD sucks!!
 
Are you not afraid that something in the polish you used could have an adverse effect on your tank? The acrylic looks amazing but I would be scared to death about using that on the inside of my tank.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13313463#post13313463 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ziggy953
Are you not afraid that something in the polish you used could have an adverse effect on your tank? The acrylic looks amazing but I would be scared to death about using that on the inside of my tank.

I am not too concerned as the polish dries into a powder and is buffed off. Any (if any) distillates that might be left are volatile and gas off shortly after (especially with the 110 degree heat in the garage). I will also have to do a water test with hose water when plumbing is done. That will help wash off anything else left over. Whatever residue that might be left is minimal and probably not present in high enough levels to affect 300 gals of water enough to harm anything.
 
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