Algae: Fighting the good fight!

Clowny88

New member
So I'm fighting algae, have been for awhile, trying to find the source of the problem, not just carbon dose or slap a band aid on and call it a day. I dont have a heavy bioload and i dont see where nutrients would be coming from to feed algae. Here's what I've got.

Tank: 75g with corner overflow. 55g sump teed off feed (left chamber 50% flow, chaeto... Right chamber 50% flow, Reef Octopus 110 skimmer, center chamber bare bottom with live rock and return). No filter socks. Tank was started last December as a 40g, transferred everything to the 75 but rinsed sand first.

Parameters: pH 7.8, nitrates 0, phosphates 0, temp 78-80... Using API test kits, yes yes I know, but whether NO3 or PO4 were showing readings or not, we know its there somewhere feeding algae growth.

Livestock: 2 clowns, 1 firefish, soft corals (Xenia, gsp, zoas), 4 RBTA's.

Lighting: 2x 165w black boxes. Moonlight for 14 hours, Blues (50%) for 12 hours, Whites (40%) for 10 hours. *Just changed lights 2 weeks ago, but cleaned tank and still seeing same rate of algae growth.

Clean up crew: 20+ total... 7 blue leg hermits, 3 emerald crabs, 10 or so snails (including one monster Tonga). Hard to tell because snails always fall down and die. 1 sand sifting star.

Water: RO from supermarket, always tests <5 ppm (usually 0-3).

Flow: Besides return, 2x 850gph Hydro Koralia power heads on each end. Left side pointing down towards the sand, right side pointing up towards overflow.

Feeding: Frozen brine, PE mysis, or Rods. Fed every other day or every third day. Anemones get fed bigger chunks from Rods. I don't rinse my food but i do use tweezers to put the food in the tank (that way I'm leaving that water/thawed junk behind).

Rock: 125 lbs+. All but one 10 lb piece was live rock. 30 lbs from Craigslist, the rest from LFS. Sump has about 30 lbs, dt 90 lbs.

Additives: No dosing, but running GFO in a reactor (fed from and returned to skimmer chamber). Added Chemiclean several months ago due to cyano. Worked like a charm and did a massive water change after.

Water Changes: 10 gallons every 2-4 weeks. Vaccuum sand every time. After water is mixed, I let it sit for 1-2 hours before adding.

Salt: Using Instant Ocean, contemplating change to Reef Crystals.

Problem Areas: Rocks at each end, sand in the front portion of the tank (back side of the tank behind rocks, sand is crystal white).

Recent Changes...
- Added new lights (2 weeks ago). Prior to that had 1 LED bar and 1 50/50 CFL (10 months old).
- Changing sump. Originally went straight to skimmer chamber, then chaeto/rock/fuge chamber, then return. Now goes 50% left (chaeto), 50% right (skimmer), return in the middle with live rock.
- Ran chemiclean several months ago.

My half baked theories:

1) Not enough flow. Even though I'm not overfeeding and have a low bioload, I'm not getting enough circulation to keep nasties suspended in the water column. As a result they collect on rocks in low flow areas, causing algae growth. Not getting enough exported out of the tank to the sump.

2) Sump design is flawed. I moved 50% of my return away from the skimmer, relying on chaeto to export some nutrients. If the chaeto isn't doing it's job efficiently, thats a problem. The center chamber also has some detritus settled at the bottom. Could this be feeding bad shtuff to the DT?

3) Die off. Snails die all the time, like one every 1-2 weeks. They tip over and die. I've had some big turbos in there too. Could this really cause such a spike in a larger system like this? I also seeded twice with pods in the spring, yet I don't see this booming pod population. Could there have been a die off here as well that cause a nutrient spike?

4) Rocks leeching. I doubt this based on how I got them, but can't rule it out.

5) CUC not big enough. Whenever I think of beefing up my CUC though, that means more waste. I don't have a bristle worm factory in my tank so I figured I don't have a lot of extra stuff to compete for.

I'd love to hear your thoughts!
 
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Algae requires one main nutrient besides water and light: phosphate.
Unfortunately rock and sand contain it. Some contain more than others. It soaks out into the water over time, and keeps doing it until it is fully 'conditioned.'
GFO reactor will uptake the phosphate. Toss the medium once monthly until you see real limprovement, then slow down and let the last load finish the job. It may take quite a few months for a really bad load.
 
Algae requires one main nutrient besides water and light: phosphate.
Unfortunately rock and sand contain it. Some contain more than others. It soaks out into the water over time, and keeps doing it until it is fully 'conditioned.'
GFO reactor will uptake the phosphate. Toss the medium once monthly until you see real limprovement, then slow down and let the last load finish the job. It may take quite a few months for a really bad load.

For almost a year though? Even with cured live rock from the LFS? I reload my GFO reactor monthly but I haven't seen much improvement. Do you think I should move my reactor to the DT rather than the sump?
 
For almost a year though? Even with cured live rock from the LFS? I reload my GFO reactor monthly but I haven't seen much improvement. Do you think I should move my reactor to the DT rather than the sump?

That won't make a difference. What's most likely happening is the GFO is getting used up in a very short time maybe the first few days. Then you leave it online exhausted for the rest of the month. You feed for the rest of the month and the GFO isn't helping you because it is already exhausted. So basically you are back to square one each month.

Its expensive i know but start changing the media once a week for a month and see if that helps.
 
That's what is frustrating about GFO.... Having no idea if its used up or not. I haven't been getting a lot of tumble and I wish I knew if the media was working, used up, etc.
 
Measure the effluent from your GFO reactor. If it's the same as the tank the GFO is exhausted. In my tank the PO4 will go up in the tank as the GFO is exhausted but in your case the algae is probably preventing that.
 
The reason I ask that is, you can tell when GFO is exhausted when you have to clean your glass every couple of days. With proper use of GFO you should be able to go a week or more without cleaning your glass.
 
The reason I ask that is, you can tell when GFO is exhausted when you have to clean your glass every couple of days. With proper use of GFO you should be able to go a week or more without cleaning your glass.
I've been cleaning it every couple days, even right after I reloaded GFO. Maybe the key is "with proper use". I have to open the valve all the way just to get s little tumble. Used to be I created a sandstorm if I did that before. Something can't be right.
 
Just a couple thoughts to add to everyone's good ideas.

Some Astraea and trochus snails are suited for cooler water. While they can tolerate large temp swings like they experience with the tides, they don't do well in our tank's long term warmer climates. Maybe try a diff source or species if all the dead soldiers came from the same vendor.

Hermits need a variety of shells to swap around between to lessen (but not eliminate) their murderous tendencies toward snails.

Get the dead snails out right away, they will drive up your nutrients as they rot. Your sand sifting star doesn't have much chance of survival, I'd return him before he starves and fouls the water.

Every third days is not enough fish food IMO. I feed at least 3x a day. Not to put to fine a point on it, but if my toilet was broken I wouldn't stop eating to fix the problem. You can feed larger stuff that's easy to see if it gets missed like a flake or pellet to hold the fish over, nothing in your tank needs pods or any of the small bits but the algae really likes it. I'd let the coral live on poop and feed the nem and fish stuff that you can target easily like you are doing with the tweezers. Idk what nems need tho

"Water tests 5ppm" - of what?

Your in-tank flow is on the low side and coming from only 2 points. You can def add a ph, or switch to 3-4 small ones for better distribution

You can measure how much waters actually moving through your sump by counting how long it takes your overflow to fill a 1 quart jar, then multiply by 4 and that's your minutes per gallon. If that converts to less gallons per hour than 5x the DT volume, I'd increase the flow through the sump.

I'd be changing 10g a week with a little turkey baster blasting of the rocks beforehand, pulling out as much algae as possible (and removing it from the tank, not just flicking it into the water column to compost into more fertilizer even tho that's really tempting to do) skimming wet, and playing around with the flow. My $.02
 
The only thing I want to add is about hermit crabs. The only good ones IMO and IME are scarlet leg hermits. The blue legs are murderous sob's and will actually kill just to be killing. The scarlet legs are very peaceful and do a great job on cleaning rocks and sand. But a very important FYI when you get them and first put them in your tank they will appear dead for a few days. They are not and will start moving about doing their job in a few days. I honestly thought they were dead because the just sat there. But if you touch them they will pull their legs in and then will come back out but just sit there.

I pulled all of my blue legs out and they are in my sump. Don't have a clue how many are left and I really don't care. But I no longer have hermits killing my snails.
 
My dwarf blue legs have been good lads so far, maybe because they are the dwarf variety. The only snail loss I've had was a suicide and a bad batch of 3 turbos, still got the others.
 
Just a couple thoughts to add to everyone's good ideas.

Some Astraea and trochus snails are suited for cooler water. While they can tolerate large temp swings like they experience with the tides, they don't do well in our tank's long term warmer climates. Maybe try a diff source or species if all the dead soldiers came from the same vendor.

Hermits need a variety of shells to swap around between to lessen (but not eliminate) their murderous tendencies toward snails.

Get the dead snails out right away, they will drive up your nutrients as they rot. Your sand sifting star doesn't have much chance of survival, I'd return him before he starves and fouls the water.

Every third days is not enough fish food IMO. I feed at least 3x a day. Not to put to fine a point on it, but if my toilet was broken I wouldn't stop eating to fix the problem. You can feed larger stuff that's easy to see if it gets missed like a flake or pellet to hold the fish over, nothing in your tank needs pods or any of the small bits but the algae really likes it. I'd let the coral live on poop and feed the nem and fish stuff that you can target easily like you are doing with the tweezers. Idk what nems need tho

"Water tests 5ppm" - of what?

Your in-tank flow is on the low side and coming from only 2 points. You can def add a ph, or switch to 3-4 small ones for better distribution

You can measure how much waters actually moving through your sump by counting how long it takes your overflow to fill a 1 quart jar, then multiply by 4 and that's your minutes per gallon. If that converts to less gallons per hour than 5x the DT volume, I'd increase the flow through the sump.

I'd be changing 10g a week with a little turkey baster blasting of the rocks beforehand, pulling out as much algae as possible (and removing it from the tank, not just flicking it into the water column to compost into more fertilizer even tho that's really tempting to do) skimming wet, and playing around with the flow. My $.02
Great stuff, thanks. So for water flow, would you add a 3rd powerhead similar to the two already there or would you upgrade one of the two? I was planning on updating one to a Jebao rw8, but maybe I should just be adding a third to match the other two?

<5ppm I was referring to was my TDS reading BTW.
 
I would also up your water changes to 10 gallons once a week until your problem is resolved.

+1. I have an 80g with about a 15g sump and I do 2 Home Depot buckets weekly about 10 gallons. I think 10 gallons every 2-4 weeks is not enough.

Also I let the water mix for 24 hours with powerheads in the buckets.
 
do you have an extra ph you use to mix water, or for qt?
you could just throw that in for a couple weeks and see what happens. I use the cheap ph's so idk much about rw's.

TDS 5 is high. Maybe look at that a little closer. At less than $200 a good rodi will pay for itself in under a year in your case, and the convenience will likely result in more frequent changes.
 
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