Algae Identification and Assitance

Wow...sounds drastic...but I like the challenge. I will give this a shot...I will take some pics this evening and document the experience. As of today...I was running only the T5's and have my flow from the Tunzes and CL at 100%. I will have to closely monitor the corals. Obviously I will need to continue feeding but will continue current protocol of 1/2 sheet Nori, Pinch of Flake, and one small cube of mysis.

So if I got this correct we are looking at 3 days of no light in Display or Fuge followed by one day of T5's? Should I ramp the hours on the MH once this 4 day cycle is complete?
 
Lights out will help (with most nuisance algae. However, to keep the algae away, you still need to reduce nutrients as well, GFO works wonders here, however if cyano, once established, it can be tricky to get rid of. I've found GFO seems to prevent it from growing, but it can be more tricky to completely eliminate what's there. Lights out is a good way to "mop up" the remaining algae, but I strongly recommend GFO and other means of nutrient reduction.

Other methods of nutrient reduction could be: Wet skimming, GFO, macro algae, reduced feeding (if possible - don't starve your fish), increased water changes, vacuum to remove existing algae can be very useful, when it dies it can release nutrients and toxins.

Also, DSB's and other means of denitrification can help, but I would stick to DSB's and RDSB's other more advanced methods often have issues.

Once nutrients are reduced the lights out will have a more permanent effect, but you will also need to keep up with nutrient reduction after. If nutrients are already low, it could just be residual algae and lights out may be enough, but a few extra steps never hurts.

Good luck!
 
Here are some pics post sand cleaning. As you can see in the second pic there is a light brown covering beginning to form almost immediately following cleaning.

I started the 72 hour dark cycle tonight. I will keep you posted.

BTW....I noticed a few more snails who perished within the algae zone.....wouldn't this lend itself to more of dino than a cyano?

All fish and coral are happy as can be...keep your fingers crossed.

110682mini-PostClean1.jpg


110682mini-PostClean2.jpg
 
M

No worry

ClayWagner


That's def. cyanobacteria...without a doubt.

I'll say the same thing as before. There is Doubt they are cyano. Many micro algae produce bubbles and are slimmy, .ie. Cyano, Dino's, Diatoms etc.

There are variations of color to this organism so don't assume that it has to be "red slime" to be cyano.


I think many of us are aware of that. Cyano can be almost any color, blue green, green , dark green , red, pinkish, maroon, black brown to dark brown and black.

Here are some examples of cayno mats over run with diatoms producing the dark brown color. A color not very common to cyano themselvies but is more so in thermal springs.

http://www.uta.edu/paleomap/homepage/Schieberweb/microbial_mat_page.htm


rpeeples

BTW....I noticed a few more snails who perished within the algae zone.....wouldn't this lend itself to more of dino than a cyano

Usually rpeeples but not always. Have you taken any out yet and rubbed it between you fingers to see if it is gritty feeling ??

a light brown covering beginning to form almost immediately following cleaning.

And almsot always an indication of Diatoms :)
 
I vote for dinoflagellates...have you done a search on here and read about other reefers battles with it? In my opinion it is NOT cyano or diatoms...there is a long thread on here specifically about a form of dinos that kills snails...
 
Boomer...no one is right or wrong here so don't go contradicting everybody's opinion except your own. The characteristics of this particular incident leads towards a cyano outbreak (sheet, bubbles, fast growing even when broken/vacuumed out), but does not rule out any individual algae. Regardless of which specific algae organism I believe rpeepers utmost goal is to eliminate the algae, and when push comes to shove, eradication techniques of almost all algaes are the same and I feel that my way will help (non-photoperiod and as he claimed he will limit nutrients with less food input). I don't understand how you make accusations towards me when I clearly was supporting your theory "diatoms have a hard silica wall and are thus very different in appeance and texture, although I'm not entirely aware if they can coincide in the same place but some information I've read in the past suggests that they can in fact be symbiotic organisms." Also, you might want to find a source that denotes a marine environment and not a spring fed creek (freshwater and much different temperatures ~70F). rpeepers let's see some update pics soon ;) If this doesn't work then we'll move to other solutions.
 
Boomer...no one is right or wrong here so don't go contradicting everybody's opinion except your own.

Well then why is it Ok for you to do it ? In your last post you said, in so many words, it is 100 % they must be cyano. I dont' think you, me or anyones knows that for sure is my point.

Also, you might want to find a source that denotes a marine environment and not a spring fed creek (freshwater and much different temperatures ~70F)

No not really you may want to check some text books on it. There is not much difference.

I don't understand how you make accusations towards me when I clearly was supporting your theory

What accusations towards you. There are none. Please point them out. I guess I'm not suppose to disagree is your point.
 
Last edited:
I said they may be Dino's.

However, Dino's usually are not fond in low flow areas but high flow areas. Cyano and diatoms are more common on the bottom and glass, especially diatoms on the glass. You often see dinos' covering lift tubes power heads and corals. And his algae does not really look like and Dinos', as they ae really not snoot like. And raising the Mg++ up high or using Kalk to keep the pH @ 8.6 often works for Dino's.

A good pic of Dinos' in a ref tank

Dinoflagellates.jpg


On method for removing cyano at times that works is to set up a power head with high current. Both cyano and dinos' can kill especially if substances are released when they are being removed. Dead or dying snails does not mean it is some algae. Everyone here is jumping the gun so to speak on ID and what killed the snails

There are many methods for removing various micro algae. They are not all the same but m2434 last post is the best way to go for any of them, to keep things in check, especially with an unknown.
 
Oh crud i think I started a trend - my apologies again:lol:

Also, I've read cyanotoxins can also be toxic to snails, I'm not sure how likely this is....
 
Thanks again for all the feedback and educational debate ;)

I will take some updated pics when I return home this evening as last night was the start of the test period. As of this morning I changed out a filter sock, all lights are off, and the skimmer is skimming wet.

I also dropped some $$ on new filters for my RODI system just as a precautionary measure to exclude my TopOff Water as a possible contributor to this problem. I really don't believe it is as if I did have silicates in the water wouldn't my TDS Meter display >0 PPMs?

Quick question regarding the RODI......Should you run your DI Filter after the TFC Membrane or before?
 
DI should be the last stage of your system, it completely (or should) removes all TDS that the sediment, carbon, and RO left behind. Again, Boomer, regardless of what it is, let's try and help rpeeples destroy whatever algae it is.
 
m

Also, I've read cyanotoxins can also be toxic to snails.

Yup ;)

So know we have Diatoms, Dino's and Cyano that can kill :) Not to mention, some snail release their own toxin, when the population densities gets to high. Many snails die as there is not the proper algae for them to feed on and the poor cyano's, etc., get blamed for it in both cases. When snails die from someone mucking yup the bottom within a few hrs them we can more or less blame them.

rpeeples

I see Clay posted as I was posting so he has you set straight on the DI placement

I really don't believe it is as if I did have silicates in the water wouldn't my TDS Meter display >0 PPMs?

It depends on the form of silica it is. You could have high silica as there are silica's that have no charge, thus do not show up on a TDS meter.

An old thread on Silica and RO/DI

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1226849

Also

Silica in a Reef Tank
http://advancedaquarist.com/issues/jan2003/feature.htm
 
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