Algae Issues Thread

griss

RC Mod
Staff member
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Do you have an algae problem? Read any previous posts in this thread first, if that doesn’t help, please post the following:
Tank Size
Filtration in use (canister, sump, wet/dry, protein skimmer, etc)
Lighting
How long has your tank been setup
What inhabitants you have
Water parameters
- ammonia

- nitrite
- nitrate
- nitrate
- alkalinity
- calcium
- pH
- Magnesium

* If possible, post a close up picture of the algae under white light.
 
great thread. there's lots of work that can be done in tank rehab work

I know of collections fifty pages long of tanks being fixed left and right, by rip cleans, running as recently as yesterday with new jobs. there's demand for live time tank fixes

= w be fun to do some work live time for ReefCentral

add that mode to the mix. if you have a nano reef, there's a way to fix your invasion by cleaning it in a way you never thought of, solely because the tank is a nano. large tanks have to follow other rules, they're inaccessible compared to the size tank you chose

you can leverage that easy access into never being invaded, gallonage matters tremendously when accepting remediation choices

cleaning your tank is part of the rehab, it removes the irritants harming/irritating corals and fish (re: allelopathy from invaders, search it out)

full cleaning, not hesitant partial cleaning, allows surface area restoration=
better surface area=better nitrification, waste turnover rates. better ORP balances in the system (loose analogy to waste acids/reduction vs boosted oxygenation benefits)

there's more benefit, but that's the majors. knowing that nano reef owners have a secret access to being uninvaded that large tankers don't have is handy

just because you havent found how to prevent a tank invasion does not mean you have to entertain one. you get to quit cleaning when you're better at prevention, and the whole time your tank looks great.

a direct work example of a rip clean/before and after time one day.

shadow1.jpg



showdow2.jpeg


that's Shadow_K's rip clean.

as we take partial guesstimate measures to fix our tanks, our animals bathe in irritants compared to totally clean water systems. the secret to being invasion free in a nano reef is clean it, until you don't have to. corals deserve your best effort, simply allow no invasion. that's not done above by siphon hose on the gravel heh

scrub in, we're putting your reef through skip cycle surgery for all to see, and we already know the outcome.
 
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I was going to ask for some help with algae ID, if that’s even what this is. I was looking for the best place to post it and I think that is here.

It seems to be growing only on my gorgonians. It’s basically choking them off. It’s long and stringy, I’m concerned it’s dinos.

I have the lights turned off right now hopefully will choke it off.

Any help would be appreciated
 

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I was going to ask for some help with algae ID, if that’s even what this is. I was looking for the best place to post it and I think that is here.

It seems to be growing only on my gorgonians. It’s basically choking them off. It’s long and stringy, I’m concerned it’s dinos.

I have the lights turned off right now hopefully will choke it off.

Any help would be appreciated
So what happens when you vacuum that off? Does it resist or come off easily? Does it grow back over night or takes a while?
 
The fact that it’s not on the sand/rocks and only on the Gorgs has me thinking it’s not Dinos. But, I’ve been wrong before.

What are your nitrate and phosphate levels? Some thinking is zero levels of those two allows Dino’s to out compete other organisms.
 
I had a similar goop that loved my montis but mine was blobby not stringy. Same yuk brown though. It's been around in pockets and on frag racks for years.It's hard to say if it infests the coral and causes damage or the coral is hurting first and the goop seizes the opportunity. Either way I think these goops only flourish in microbiol weak environments. I started dosing Aqua Forest life source once a week at half dose and the goop is completely gone for the first time in years. As a bonus all my red cyano that lingered here and there is gone too. My montis have started regrowing right over the dying edges. Don't know if you want to try it, it's a weird messy product, but I'm a believer in this stuff.
 
Funny you mention the weak microbial environments. I was just reading that as well. I guess it wouldn’t hurt to go with it and see what it does. It’s very weird that it’s nowhere else except these gorgs

As far as parameters go, I’m a little ashamed to say I’m not sure. Short of testing during the cycle I tend not to do a lot of other testing. It shouldn’t be too far out of whack, I don’t have a lot of import and the bioload is relatively small. I don’t feed much either. Unless it’s coming from the source water which I haven’t tested either…

I will do some testing at some point and report back. I need some ULR reagents for the Hannah.

Right now I have the tank covered with a blanket to see if it makes any progress. Tomorrow I have to set up those new pumps so I’ll leave it covered until then.

Did you get the aqua forest from BRS?

Thanks friends.

Edit:
Found the stuff. Ordered.
 
I spot details in the pics that indicate eutrophic conditions on the sandbed unless that's a reflection. Can u post a standard front facing pic that shows the sandbed loading if any. Areas of gray or darker pigmenting are focus areas

White rock systems that have open spaces not covered by brain coral flesh for example are open to other colonizations. Part of the benefit of a matured system full of coralline and coral is that those surfaces are rejecting of competing pressure from invaders compared to open white rock zones in between corals.

Newer setups need special guiding vs matured ones. From the full tank shot we can assess maturity of the host areas for any waste pockets or target mass.

I'm always curious to see the nutrient reserves that exist in many challenge tanks that feed opportunists. To truly win in some systems you fix them from the bottom up. Curious to see pics


Lighting intensity and spectrum are top adjustments to be made in many cases. Things other than species ID are the key details in my opinion. Need to see the tank in daytime soon to correctly see the target

Too bright and too white lighting is a top cause of various outbreaks and provides mechanical selection of invaders that outpace our ideal surface microfauna.
 
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I spot details in the pics that indicate eutrophic conditions on the sandbed unless that's a reflection. Can u post a standard front facing pic that shows the sandbed loading if any. Areas of gray or darker pigmenting are focus areas

White rock systems that have open spaces not covered by brain coral flesh for example are open to other colonizations. Part of the benefit of a matured system full of coralline and coral is that those surfaces are rejecting of competing pressure from invaders compared to open white rock zones in between corals.

Newer setups need special guiding vs matured ones. From the full tank shot we can assess maturity of the host areas for any waste pockets or target mass.

I'm always curious to see the nutrient reserves that exist in many challenge tanks that feed opportunists. To truly win in some systems you fix them from the bottom up. Curious to see pics


Lighting intensity and spectrum are top adjustments to be made in many cases. Things other than species ID are the key details in my opinion. Need to see the tank in daytime soon to correctly see the target

Too bright and too white lighting is a top cause of various outbreaks and provides mechanical selection of invaders that outpace our ideal surface microfauna.

Hello, thank you for your time.

The pics I posted are of the tank with no lights on at all. Just ambient light in the room and the iPhone camera.


This is a link to my build thread where there are some various pics including the light I’m using as well.

I can try to get more pictures today.

I will also adjust my light down today as well.

Currently it ramps both channels blue and white up to I think 70% max blue and 30% max white which occurs around noon and back down to 0 at about 2000. Lights come on at 5% starting at 0700. I’ll double check this today.
 
Here is a shot of the goop in a container. Not sure if this is helpful. I’m gonna get some under the microscope at some point.
 

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