AlgaeFix Marine to control Hair Algae

[Ardeus]

I'm on the 6th dose and algae growth continues - I continue to scrub them with a tooth brush.

There are several types of algae and there's also a new problem: huge amounts of cyano that I didn't have before. They started to take over corals and macro algae.

I'm running a powerful GFO and my nitrates and phosphates are undetectable by Salifert tests.

 

[RegalAngel]

Will AlgaeFix Marine work in a setup with carbon in the filtration system?
I would like to treat for "Brown" algae which AlgaeFix will kill, but have carbon.

What do the directions indicate?

 

[HighlandReefer]

This is the label from the AlgaeFix Marine label (Nothing is mentioned that carbon be removed):

"Benefits: AlgaeFix marine effectively controls these types of saltwater algae: Green algae (Cladaphora), "Red Loine" (Oscillatoria/Spirulina major), "Brown algae" (Cyclotela) in marine aquarium containing live corals, invertebrates and fish. When used in salt water will not harm snails, clams,scallops, shrimp, anemones, sea cucumbers, feather dusters, coralline algae, soft corals, hard corals and other invertebrates. Does not discolor the water or cause foaming.

Directions for use: It is a violation of federal law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling. Add 1 ml (1/5 tsp. for each 10 US gallons (38 L) or 5 ml (1 tsp.) for each 50 US gallons (190 L) or 50 ml. (10 tsp.) for each 500 US gallons (1,890 L) of aquarium water. Repeat dose every 3 days until algae is controlled. Siphon or scrape any dead algae from aquarium. Once algae growth is under control, add one dose per week. Weekly doses of AlgaeFix Marine will control Alger growth and reduce aquarium maintenance.

Precautionary Statement
Hazards to humans & domestic animals.

Caution: Harmful if swallowed or absorbed through the skin. Avoid contact with skin, eyes or clothing. Wash thoroughly with soap and water after handling. Note: This product contains a chemical known to the state of California to cause cancer.

First Aid: If on skin, thoroughly wash with soap and water and remove contaminated clothing. If in eyes, hold eye open and gently flush with water for 15 minutes. If Swallowed, call a Poison Control Center or doctor immediately for treatment advice.

Storage and Disposal: Do not contaminate water or feed. Do not reuse empty bottle. Rinse throughly before discarding in trash."

 

[PhreeBYrd]

I'm on the 6th dose and algae growth continues - I continue to scrub them with a tooth brush.

There are several types of algae and there's also a new problem: huge amounts of cyano that I didn't have before. They started to take over corals and macro algae.

I'm running a powerful GFO and my nitrates and phosphates are undetectable by Salifert tests.

The cyanobacteria is likely a result of excess nutrient availability from other algaes dying or from their inability to consume nutrients at their prior levels. Make sure you have sufficient water movement and redirect flow onto any problem cyanobacteria. Also make sure your skimmer is operating at optimal production - in this case, optimal means running on the wet side.

Scrubbing your problem algae with a toothbrush is doing nothing but breaking it apart and spreading it around. I suggest regularly siphoning out what you can (without brushing). This is best done immediately before each AlgaeFix dose.

 

[goochesfish]

Does anyone think a UV sterilizer will kill algae spores? I've done 9 doses, have no new growth, am scrubbing and siphoning. Hair algae not all gone but much improved. I cannot get to tufts behind rock work. I am losing snails and my Chevron looks skinny. Yesterday it got stuck to the closed loop intake but he has survived another day and is eating. I really want to go to weekly doses so i can buy new turbos snails.

 

[HighlandReefer]

UV can kill algae cells, I am not sure about other forms that algae take (spores), which are usually more protected with heavy outer membranes. One problem with UV is that the algae attached will not pass through the UV unit.

 

[Ardeus]

PhreeBYrd: Thanks for the tips.

I had a large beautifull and dense forest of macroalgae in the tank and they are almost dead now and cyano is everywhere in massive amounts suffocating many corals.

Green algae continues to grow at least as fast as before and almost need daily removal.

When I use a tooth brush to clean the rocks, I filter the water for an hour or so and then remove and clean the sponge.

I will continue just cleaning the tank, maybe get a refugium and throw Algaefix in the garbage before the situation gets even worse.

Nitrates and phosphates are still undetectable.

 

[newsalt]

Adding 8th dose tonight. I'd say 50% of the algea is gone, but some is stubborn. It's not fading and is still well attached to the LR. Is this typical? Also, is it better to dose after the lights go out, or does it matter?

Stopped dosing AlgeaX because I was getting cyano. I started using Fauna Marin AlgeaX because I had success with it on a previous tank, but not this time. HA is still there and cyano is getting worse. I don't know what to do.

 

[HighlandReefer]

Once the AF kills algae, then what is left in many cases is the cyano. Cyano can be very stubborn. Cyano will live off the organics as well as the inorganic nitrate and phosphate. Cyano will consume these as fast as they are added in fish foods and released from your sand bed and rock. Limiting your feeding and removing any organic debris (dead algae, left over food....etc) will aid in controlling cyano. If cyano is growing on your sand bed, then cleaning your sand bed regularly will help remove nutrients before the cyano can get it. Better filtration helps a lot.

FWIW, AlgaeFix is not the cause of the cyano, other than removing algae as a competitor for nutrients. The cyano was already present in your system.

This is Boomer's battle plan against cyano:

"Some added thoughts from over the years from many

The only known fish to eat Cyano is Amblygobius stethophthalmus and it needs to be the real one not its close relative that is often Mis-ID with it.

A 2- 3 month scheme

1. Water changes. 25% weekly.

2. Bare bottom refugium only for cheato nutrient export and not for critters.

3. Siphon, sump, refugium, etc. every week during water change and clean all filter you have.

4. Blow off all the Cyano and settled stuff you can so it can be siphoned off.

5. Clean out skimmer and cup every week.

6. Carbon, 1 cup per 50 gallons / 2 wks. Try to use ROX

7. GFO -HC , change every month.

8. Purigen, every month

9. Soak frozen food in RO/DI and discard water before use. This is especially true for brine shrimp. Matter of fact I use to pour off the water, and then fill it back up, to repeat it until there was only whole brine shrimp in the container.

10. Read what is in the food and look for things low in phosphates.

11. Keep the pH in the very low 8's or very high 7's, as Cyano will out compete other algae's in higher pH water.

12. The # 1 limiting nutrient for Cyano is N, not P based on studies in various microbiology texts.

13. During these water changes and blowing stuff off and siphoning it up run a Diatom filter with a second cake of PAC (Powdered activated carbon).

14. Increase water flow where Cyano are growing, as they do not like high currents.

15. Shutting of all lights, almost total darkness for 48 hr. every few days.

Last resort is Chemi-Clean by Boyd.

99.9 % of the time if nothing eats it and it looks like yours it is Cyano."

 

[PhreeBYrd]

Stopped dosing AlgeaX because I was getting cyano. I started using Fauna Marin AlgeaX because I had success with it on a previous tank, but not this time. HA is still there and cyano is getting worse. I don't know what to do.

My suggestion is to stop adding algaecides to your tank. I don't know exactly what's in AlgaeX, but if you've been using both AlgaeFix and AlgaeX, together or in succession, you are inviting catastrophe.

Cyanobacteria is not the end of the world, and it's very easy to control. Very seldom does it do any damage, and most of the time it will subside on its own if you do nothing but skim aggressively and do normal water changes with high quality, zero-nutrient replacement water.

Cyano is a bacteria, albeit an unusual one. It is always present in most every reef tank, and it only becomes an issue when the balance of nutrients and nutrient consumption gets skewed. It is extremely light sensitive. You've probably noted that it appears to be gone after the lights have been out, but by evening it is back. If your tank day becomes shorter, the cyano does not have time to reach problem levels. It does not tolerate high water movement.

The cyanobacteria is consuming the nutrients in your water which were previously being consumed by other organisms (often, algae). In other cases, it may be feeding off a sudden nutrient increase resulting from death or uneaten food. As a bacteria, its life cycle is short. Aggressive skimming continuously removes the dead bacteria along with the nutrients they have consumed. Corals which consume bacteria as food, including most sps and many soft corals, will consume cyano (but only if it's suspended in the water column where they can reach it).

Adjust/increase your water flow.
Skim aggressively (wet).
Adjust your lighting period if necessary.
Reduce feeding, and make sure your food is not adding excessive nutrients.
Make sure your replacement water is not a source of nutrients.
A large cleanup crew of snails, hermits, urchins, etc. can help keep the cyano from settling anywhere.
Above all, be patient. It may take a couple of weeks or more to clear.

Many reefers have reported success in controlling cyano outbreaks by using K-Z's Coral Snow. I'm not quite clear why it works, but do know that it's a completely safe and biocide-free option.

 

[newsalt]

PhreeByrd, thanks for that explanation. I was not using AlgeaFix and AlgeaX together. There were several months between them. I decided to stop all algaecides and do what you suggest.....especially being patient.

 

[Merfin70]

Well should anyone be interested, I finished my use of AlgeaFix after 5 doses. Certainly affected my GHA enough for me to be able to pluck and siphon successfully. By dose (4) it was nice and pale and easier to deal with from a finger pinch and a hose. Once everything was short enough, introduced (2) mexican turbos that made short work of the remaining algae. For me a success.

 

[HighlandReefer]

George,

Good to hear you had success using AF.

 

[Merfin70]

Thanks Cliff for keeping this thread moving along. Ones like these are invaluable when you come upon the unfortunate situations like I did and need some help in the right direction. Very useful info that allows one to make their own informed decision based on the experience of others.

 

[HighlandReefer]

Your welcome.

As Randy says, "Happy Reefing"

 

[revclyburn]

Please try and keep this thread alive. It is important to everyone, even those that have never had to deal with the hair algae monster. I'm currently dosing Algaefix with some results but with a lack of time lately and no really clean up crew its hard to beat it. I will eventually. Gonna stop the dosing in a week or so, dump all my sand, get some new sand, increase my clean up crew and reduce me lights. I have new bulbs and that must have triggered my current bloom. What would be the best clean up crew for a 55g reef? I think they work better than any algae killer out here. Any suggestions? I've been down this road before and know what I want, but i don't keep up with things like I used too, maybe there are some new critters products others are using.

Rev

 

[HighlandReefer]

Which fish & clean-up crews that work best seems to vary with the species of algae you have. In some cases a fish will eat an algae well and then for other reefers, the same specie of fish won't touch it. Go figure. :lol:

In other cases a fish will eat the algae if it is kept low and when it gets taller the same fish won't touch it.

I have had good luck with tangs and foxfaces, except with Derbesia algae.

 

[goochesfish]

I would say I have success with 11 doses but I'm afraid to stop. I added more snails 2 turbos and 10 astreas in addition to my existing trochus and emeralds. I will stop though and see what happens after a week.

 

[RegalAngel]

I had a few questions regarding AlgaeFix Marine, and asked API:

Q1. Does carbon in one's filtration system remove AF?
"There is no need to remove the carbon during the treatment as it will not remove the algaecide from your aquarium water."

Q2. How long does it take for AF to degrade?
"The Algaefix Marine will degrade from your system in a 24 hour period after it is added to the aquarium."

Q3. Should I add AF weekly since I have very little algae or use the regular schedule?
"You can add Algaefix Marine as directed as a maintenance dose each week to start off or start the regular recommend treatment for full algae blooms.
During the treatment the Algaefix will work at destroying the cell wall of the algae cell to kill the algae off."


If you have any other questions or wish to discuss this further, please email back or give us a call at 1-800-847-0659.

Best Regards,
Nathan Fekula
Technical Service and Research
Mars Fishcare

50 EAST HAMILTON ST
PO BOX 218
CHALFONT, PA 18914-0218

 

[sanamyan]

Has anybody any experience on using AlgaeFix against Dictyota algae?