Ammonia in R/O water after a few days w/ movement

[Dudeman8092]

Hey everyone,

I've had a saltwater tank for over a year now and I've had a very bumpy ride along the way. This problem I'm speaking of currently is driving me crazy and its costing me more than I can afford. I currently have an RODI system (bought at the same time as setting up the tank, I make 50 gallons a week from it)which I just recently replaced all filters except the membrane. I found out that my local water supplier uses a large amount of Chloramine in the water which breaks down to ammonia, so I decided to get a good carbon filter to do the trick of removing the chloramine to process the ammonia better in the DI filter. My filter seems to be doing the trick, however after the water is in my Brute trash can with a pump to circulate flow, the ammonia content increases slowly from 0 up to about 2ppm over the course of a week. I also have another can I use for storage, a Blue Hawk 32 Gal. which shows the exact same readings. I thought maybe my ammonia test kit needed replaced so I went ahead and bought another kit which I'm still waiting on arriving. But I don't believe that is the issue either, since I can test the straight RO water and get 0 ammonia. Now getting to my tank, it has ripped a hole in my wallet severely, I've lost a lot of beautiful corals because of this and I've been spending money to try to combat the problem and I've had no luck. Prime is helping to transfer the ammonia to a non toxic form but its not a fix by any means.

I only have three small fish(clown, devil, cardinal) in my 37 gallon with a 20 gallon sump, and my ammonia will not go below .50 because of each time I add water to counter evaporation. Water changes help because the water is taken to the tank within 24 hours of being filtered, but still not doing the trick. Another thing I should add is I have 3lbs of DeNitrate and multiple other anti-ammonia media to combat it. Reef Octopus Skimmer seems to be working fine also and my nitrates and phosphates are under control. The filter sock and filter media in my sump have been cleaned in the past month but at separate times to keep bacteria growth constant.

Please help me with any information, I'm fighting a giant here.

 

[shermanator]

For chloramines, it's recommended to use catalytic activated carbon (usually refillable) and a special carbon block (PenTek ChlorPlus) after the sediment filters and before the RO membrane.

With a normal setup, it's difficult to remove all of the NH2Cl and you will end up with breakdown of NH2Cl into NH3 in your holding tank.

 

[Dudeman8092]

Thanks for the information, I have a chloroplus carbon block filtering now, however my unit only contains a sediment, carbon, di, and membrane so I don't have the option for the other carbon filter. Is there an option that I could add that as a external filter at all?

 

[Dudeman8092]

I just replaced the membrane about five minutes ago, hoping that will help. The previous membrane was not exhausted but I'm now at least getting 0.00 tds instead of 0.02. Here's to hoping the.02 is the culprit.

 

[shermanator]

I just replaced the membrane about five minutes ago, hoping that will help. The previous membrane was not exhausted but I'm now at least getting 0.00 tds instead of 0.02. Here's to hoping the.02 is the culprit.

You cannot detect chloramine via TDS (nor will DI resin pick it up). Presumably in your situation from the OP, chloramine was in your RODI water and broke down into ammonia that you can detect.

If you want to add an extra stage, BRS has some cheap single housings (with the 1/4" fittings). You can put one upstream of your unit and put the sediment filter in there. Then you can have two carbon stages.

Speaking of BRS, I think they even have some videos on dealing with chloramines that might be useful to watch.

 

[wooden_reefer]

You can use Prime or Amquel but I won't routinely.

You can process the ammonia in a freshwater environment before use.

Nitrification bacteria do not die quickly due to lack of amminia.

You can bag a medium and then put it in a topper ware and use it in a HOB filter box as needed.

Or you can use a pvc pipe section with holes and epoxy to a powerhead. Cap the other end. Then roll up a few layers of nylon panty hose onto the pipe section and tie with a nylon strip. You have to keep the whole setup moist while not in use.

 

[Dudeman8092]

I looked into the BRS videos and I chose to purchase a catalytic carbon filter to add as the second stage In my now 5 stage RO unit.

I had tried using media in the cans but it didn't help much, I typically use most of the water while doing change and since I've been having the ammonia issue, I haven't been storing much water besides top off. I've been using prime religiously to combat the ammonia but one it's expensive, and two I don't consider it a fix.

On another note, I live in camp hill pa, and I've noticed there are multiple law suites against the water companies here to stop the use of chloromine in our water, but all suites have failed so far. The more I learn about chloromine the more I don't understand how it can be regarded as a safe chemical. Anyways trying not to get too far off topic.

Thanks for the help so far.

 

[wooden_reefer]

My first read is that chloramine is less carcinogenic than chlorine.

 

[mr.feebles]

I looked into the BRS videos and I chose to purchase a catalytic carbon filter to add as the second stage In my now 5 stage RO unit.

I had tried using media in the cans but it didn't help much, I typically use most of the water while doing change and since I've been having the ammonia issue, I haven't been storing much water besides top off. I've been using prime religiously to combat the ammonia but one it's expensive, and two I don't consider it a fix.

On another note, I live in camp hill pa, and I've noticed there are multiple law suites against the water companies here to stop the use of chloromine in our water, but all suites have failed so far. The more I learn about chloromine the more I don't understand how it can be regarded as a safe chemical. Anyways trying not to get too far off topic.

Thanks for the help so far.

a) the concentrations at your tap aren't the same as at the dosing point

b) consider the alternatives (dysentery, etc)

 

[codyreed29]

Have you tryed simple using a water conditioner after rodi it can bind and de activate the chlorine or add some biological filtration like a freshwater tank and cycle it out.

 

[codyreed29]

Ammonia can be broken down in less than 24 hours in freshwater. Lol you might end up fighting off nitrates Which you tank will handle alot better than ammonia. Might get a little more algea but that 100 dollar acro will still be there.

 

[Yellow Eyes]

How do you know it is coming from the water?

Now I am not very experienced, but where is your water located? Is it near a source of ammonia (cleaning supplies). My thought is that you have water movement in the storage can, and if there is ammonia in the air, wouldn't it easily be brought into your water by surface agitation similar to how oxygen/co2 are brought in?

Just a thought since you said you can test you water and its 0 ammonia straight out.