anemone lighting

Different species of anemone have different requirements, even individuals of the same species may have different requirements depending on the depth and turbidity of the water they were collected in. However, all host anemones require from moderately bright to bright light by reef standards. The least least light demanding species would be Entacmaea quadricolor and Macrodactyla doreensis, all the way up to the most light demanding being Heteractis magnifica and Stichodactyla gigantea. High intensity lighting such as T-5 HO and MH is likely the best bet. Also, if kept near the bulbs and the bulbs aren't old, PC can be fine. As far as the watts/gallon rule of thumb, it's generally not considered too helpful. What's more important is the distance from the light source and the light source itself (i.e., Kelvin, wattage, fixture quality and age of the bulbs).

What kind of anemone species are you considering? You describe yourself as newbie, it's good that you're researching the topic before you actually get an anemone. There is good information in the "anemone faqs" at the top of this forum. Also, alot of RC members with experience keeping anemones that are more than happy to give you information and advice.
 
i was thinking between several different anemones. The sabae which i like because it hosts the clown fish i would like the percula true clown. I like the maroon and yellow striped clowns but i heard they get up to 6 in. I have a 36 gallon tank. Im thinking thats too small. Too bad they are my favorite. However i heard they are hard to keep alive and one of the more difficult types. Long tentacled and bubble tipped anemones seem like the beginners path. But I dont really like the clowns they host. As for lighting my tank is 16in deep and i was thinking of getting a Current 48 in. Satellite 2x65 watt SunPaq with Lunar Lights.
 
H. crispa are hard to find in good shape to begin with. Often times they are bleached (or worse yet, dyed some neon yellow or pink). Like most anemones, once they get past the first few months and become established, H. crispa can be quite hardy, from what I've read. If you devoted your 36-gallon exclusively to a H. crispa and a pair of clowns, you should be okay. The lighting you are considering might be on the low side for anything but the most shallow of tanks. H. crispa tends to dig into the sand, so it would most likely be on the bottom of the tank. A fixture with T-5 HO and individual reflectors would be a better choice for a 16 inch deep tank, in my opinion.

You could realistically keep a pair of maroons in a 36 gallon with a nice big RBTA or GBTA. Maroons are the largest species of clown and therefore, you would want a good protein skimmer, along with good husbandry (i.e. regular water changes) to successfully keep the maroons and maintain good water quality. I would again say go with T-5's or MH instead of 2 65-watt PCs.

Before adding an anemone to a tank, you want the tank to fully cycle and all readings, including nitrates to be very low, preferably undetectable. A well established anemone can put up with less than perfect water quality, however, a new anemone is less hardy and less forgiving when it comes to water quality. You might be able to find a nice large RBTA clone (check your local reef club). Tank-raised clones are quite hardy and much better bet than a wild caught H. crispa from your lfs.

Do you have a protein skimmer? Sump? Refugium? All of these are helpful in maintaining good water quality, especially with large eaters like maroons. Chaetomorpha in the sump or refugium will absorb a good bit of nitrogenous waste, as will activated carbon. A protein skimmer will go a long way to eliminate waste by-products as well.
 
I agree with all that Gary has said. And to add, I would suggest going with a BTA ( cloned being the best bet ). In addition to the difficulties in finding a healthy H. crispa, they can/will get very large -- too large for 36 gallon tank. Many many years ago I had one in my 75, it pretty much took up 1/3 of the tank.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13975773#post13975773 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Darkstar22
Would a RBTA or GBTA be ok in a 20L with 2x65W PC's......1-10000K, and 1-7100K Blue?

i would say no to this.......not cause of the lights but at how big a RBTA can get...... before my nem split he' was the size of a dinner plate..seriously 14" or so accross he was massive
 
Darkstar, 20L, as in 20 liter?, definitely too small. If you're asking about a 20-gallon long, then maybe. Karen, from Karen's Rose Anemones, suggests for a BTA a tank no smaller than 20 gallons. Eventually it would be wall-to-wall anemone, which isn't necessarily a problem. You couldn't expect to keep anything more than a clown with it and then you would have to be on top of the up-keep of the tank. I would say a protein skimmer would be imperative. If you could have a 10 or 15 gallon sump with chaeto, that would help a lot. And, your lighting would be just fine.

If you're not interested in hosting clowns, Epicystis crucifer is an nice anemone that is hardy, tolerates high nutrient load and would love the lighting you describe. But, I'm not dissuading you from a BTA, if you are good at husbandry, you should be okay w one.
 
Thanks garygb. It's a 20 gallon long, and the nem would be for hosting a Maroon clown. This tank is in the planning stages. No water in it yet.
 
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