Anemone Question / Revamp

[asharp13]

Hey RC!!

I am looking into getting a RBTA from my LFS that is a little bleached out. I'll try to get a pic of it up soon but my guy at the store told me it was becasue the anemone has lost some of the algae growing in it. Is this why the species looks so white? Also, is there any way to get the algae back into it so I can get him to stay alive in my tank?

Another note: I am looking at getting an anemone to host my clowns and I am probably going to purchase the RBTA either way becasue I absolutely love the look of it and my LFS is going to give me a steal of a deal. But, does anyone have any experience with getting clowns to jump in it? Would they enjoy a long tentacle anemone better? Sebae?

At my LFS they have long tentacle anemones but aren't sure what kind they are. They have brown feet with brown tentacles...some have brown and green tentacles? Is one in better shape than the other? Does anyone know what kind I am referring to so I can do some more research on the species? They also have one with a white foot, brown tentacles, and white tips? I have the same questions about this one.

Thanks in advance for helping the anemone newb!!!!

 

[dalston]

Hi,

I will try to answer each question as best I can but first would like to know some info on your system...

How long has your tank been setup?
What do you have for lighting?
What are your params?

I am looking into getting a RBTA from my LFS that is a little bleached out. I'll try to get a pic of it up soon but my guy at the store told me it was becasue the anemone has lost some of the algae growing in it. Is this why the species looks so white? Also, is there any way to get the algae back into it so I can get him to stay alive in my tank?

Short answer is yes, it is white because it has expelled all its zoo (host algea) which is the main energy source for the anemone due to bad lighting and below ideal environment it has been kept in. It will need good lighting and perfect water to come back, probably not a good choice in anemone if it is your first time caring for them.

Another note: I am looking at getting an anemone to host my clowns and I am probably going to purchase the RBTA either way becasue I absolutely love the look of it and my LFS is going to give me a steal of a deal. But, does anyone have any experience with getting clowns to jump in it? Would they enjoy a long tentacle anemone better? Sebae?

Really depends on the clowns that are to be hosted, while most species have been known to accept BTA in captivity, it may or may not happen for you. Pairing clowns with their natural host give us the best chance to form a relationship. What type of clowns do you own?

At my LFS they have long tentacle anemones but aren't sure what kind they are. They have brown feet with brown tentacles...some have brown and green tentacles? Is one in better shape than the other? Does anyone know what kind I am referring to so I can do some more research on the species? They also have one with a white foot, brown tentacles, and white tips? I have the same questions about this one.

As long as they are not white or transparent, their color is not a sign one is healthier than the other. They are all the same 'kind' just different color variations. If you want to reaserch this species more search M. Doreensis (scientific name). I will say this species is a little more unforgiving than a BTA. It prefers to anchor its foot in a nice deep sandbed while the BTA prefers the rockwork.

Thanks in advance for helping the anemone newb!!!!

You are more than welcome, hopefully it does

 

[asharp13]

Wow that was a lot of info thank you sooooo much.

my tank:
-24gal aquapod nano with pc lighting running 10k/6,700k and 420/460nm.
-the tank has been up for 7 months
- paramaeters are stable and good:
temp: 78-82
pH: 8.1
N&N: 0
Ammonia: 0
Phosphates: 0
dKH: 8-9
Calcium: 400-450

i bought a pink tip haitian anemone about a month a ago and when i got him he was ALL white with a bright pink foot and purpleish tips. now he is the same but his tentacles are starting to brown near the ends? is that a good/bad sign? does this mean i can maintain a more difficult species?

in terms of clowns i have two ocellaris' i don't know if they are true or false percs or whatever but i attached a pic

thanks again for the help it is much appreciated

 

[dalston]

Well the params look good and stability is a good thing

I am not familiar with the aquapod stock lighting but i'm assuming they are 32W bulbs? You may struggle with lighting, a BTA would be boarderline, it's less than ideal but I suppose as the lamps are so close to the surface of the water, it could be done. I would honestly look to uprade the lighting to provide the animal with a more ideal environment though. That being said, I wouldn't do any other species (most of which would outgrow your 24 in no time anyway). I will say that you should pass on the bleached one, if you do decide to go with a BTA, find a healthy one to begin with.

Your clowns are indeed ocellaris which are false percs, very nice too

EDIT: missed your question about the haitian! I have zero experience with this anemone but I would say that usually white going to another color (except clear!) is a good sign, it's a sign of the anemone regaining it zooanthelle (sp?) Maybe someone else with experience with this species can comment on this?

 

[asharp13]

yeah my bulbs are 32w and i am not too concerned with my tank size as i am moving in about 10 months and will be upgrading to a bigger tank in my new place.

so the fact that the haitian is accumulating zoanthelle, does that mean the struggling RBTA would too?

i understand that you would pass on the one at my LFS but the guy said hed give it to me for $15. i think i should at least try, if anything it dies with me rather than at the LFS ya kno?

is there anything i can do in terms of food, water additives, etc to promote the growth of the zoanthelle when/if i get this guy home?

 

[dalston]

Well for $15 It's probably worth a shot then, but remember, it's still a living creature and regardless of price, it deserves to be provided with optimum conditions. The best thing you can do for this anemone is give it good light and stable water (one of which it seems you have). I would also recommend feeding regulary with small amounts of krill or table shrimp soaked in selcon. Usually a bleached nem will require you to acclimate it to its new lighting by either cutting the photoperiod, or using screening. In your case however, this may not be needed as you already have low light. What lighting is it currently under at the LFS?

Again, if you do decide to take it home, watch it closely, a dead nem will nuke your tank if not removed in time, especially with a small water volume like yours.

 

[asharp13]

i am pretty sure they have 10k bulbs and acintics is what they guy said the other day but i will double check again. pc's i assume and they are about a foot above the tank. the tank that the RBTA doesnt appear to get very good light and the nem is positioned half way up the tank on some rock. honestly i think my tank looks a lot brighter all the way through than theirs

what do you mean by cutting the photoperiod, or using screening? do you mean just cutting the period that the lights are on by a couple of hours?

 

[Toddrtrex]

Are you going to keep the Condy in that tank? If so, I would pass on getting another anemone for it --- doubt that there will be enough room in a 24 for both of them. BTAs, can/will grow fairly fast and large.

 

[asharp13]

i plan on removing the pink tip haitian in a day or two, trading it to my LFS, and dropping the bubble in the same day hopefully

 

[Urchinhead]

Ask the LFS to feed the anemone. If it is eating that is a good sign plus it tells you what food the anemone is eating so you can feed it. That said and with your lighting I would suggest feeding it as much as you can. Per Karen from http://www.karensroseanemones.com/ feed until the anemone spits out the last piece of food given then stop. This plus good water and decent lighting will help your anemone recover.

 

[dalston]

what do you mean by cutting the photoperiod, or using screening? do you mean just cutting the period that the lights are on by a couple of hours?

Yes, cutting light by a few hours and gradually keep them on longer over a period of a couple weeks or so. I do like the screening method a lot better though. This is where you take a few sheets of black window screening and layer them on some eggcrate over the top of the tank, then remove a layer every few days. Todd has a great picture example on this method if you decide to do it.

 

[Toddrtrex]

............ Todd has a great picture example on this method if you decide to do it.

This is what I used when I purchased an LTA from an LFS that didn't have the best lighting -- it was going into my cube that had a 250 watt 14K MH bulb.

Yes, the light was too big for the tank --- was waiting for my new one to show up.

To show how much of an effect it has.... (( should note, didn't case any issues with my existing corals, SPS, I used 3 layers and removed a layer every 5-7 days ))

Granted, this is just carpet, but still gives the idea,

`

 

[asharp13]

thanks for the help all. but now i have a new problem haha but it is not at all major. the RBTA is anchored into an enormous rock at my LFS. i asked them to try to wiggle it out but it wouldnt budge so i told them to leave it for now as to not damage the foot. i would just take the rock home with the nem but it is as big as my tank haha.

i told them to start feeding it and am going to suggest that they rotate the rock tomorrow, hopefully making the nem unhappy and promoting it to reposition itslef...then SNATCH!!!!!!!!!! hopefully we can figure out how to get this guy out of there and home to me!!!