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anemone question
- Thread starter jamest0o0
- Start date
The chance of one of those animals running into an anemone and being eaten depends on the species. Some anemones, like BTA's aren't very sticky and not too likely to eat other aquarium occupants, on the other hand, Haddoni are notorious for eating fish, etc. Gigantea are very sticky too, they just are more rare, so not too many complaints of them eating things.
As far as coral that can be kept with anemones, some people do it very successfully. Others say that it is something that will eventually comprimise the health of the anemones or coral or both. From what I've read, sps are less likely to be toxic to anemones, and soft corals, especially sarcophytons, are likely to be a problem. Regularly changing (weekly) small amount of activated carbon is supposed to mitigate the effects of allelopathy between animals.
And for your last question, certainly with BTA's, regardless of color variant, it seems to be safe to keep several together. In general, I think that multiple individuals of the same species will likely not present any problem. Anemones of different species can be kept successfully, but a very large tank should be used if that is going to be the case. Also, to be on the safe side, it would be wise to use activated carbon as one would with soft corals to lessen the effects of allelopathy if any exists.
As far as coral that can be kept with anemones, some people do it very successfully. Others say that it is something that will eventually comprimise the health of the anemones or coral or both. From what I've read, sps are less likely to be toxic to anemones, and soft corals, especially sarcophytons, are likely to be a problem. Regularly changing (weekly) small amount of activated carbon is supposed to mitigate the effects of allelopathy between animals.
And for your last question, certainly with BTA's, regardless of color variant, it seems to be safe to keep several together. In general, I think that multiple individuals of the same species will likely not present any problem. Anemones of different species can be kept successfully, but a very large tank should be used if that is going to be the case. Also, to be on the safe side, it would be wise to use activated carbon as one would with soft corals to lessen the effects of allelopathy if any exists.
I currently have 1 royal grama, percula pair, yellow damsel, 1 fire shrimp, snails, hermits.... plan to get a few more things..... anyway I was wondering if I would be able to add an anemone to my tank in a few months once I meet all the requirements, but I don't want it harming anything in the tank and was also wondering if there were a few corals I could also stick in my tank with it... thanks
In a 55 gallon, you probably aren't going to want to add much more in the way of fish. BTA's are the hardiest of the host anemones, and though not a natural percula host, very often perculas go to them in aquariums. If there is a beginner host anemone, the BTA is it--if you can get a tank-cloned BTA (either green or rose), they are quite hardy. BTA's can wander some at first until they find a spot with the right water flow, light, and place to anchor their foot. They love to have their foot in a hole in the live rock. If you give them that and good light and random water flow, they are very stationary. I would say add the anemone before you add any coral and let it find its place and give it a little while to make sure it is going to stay put. Then you could perhaps add a few other things. I've had mushrooms (rhodactis & actinodiscus) with my RBTA for years without any problems, I just don't let them touch one another. I will say that star polyps will make BTA's retract if they come in contact. Star polyps grow rapidly and are invasive, so I wouldn't recommend them myself.
You don't mention your light system, but as you know, all the host anemones require strong lighting. T-5 ho or MH would probably be your best bet in a 55 gallon. PC would be fine if you keep the anemone in the top half of the tank or so. The sand dwelling anemones (LTA, H. crispa, S. haddoni) would probably need MH or T-5.
You don't mention your light system, but as you know, all the host anemones require strong lighting. T-5 ho or MH would probably be your best bet in a 55 gallon. PC would be fine if you keep the anemone in the top half of the tank or so. The sand dwelling anemones (LTA, H. crispa, S. haddoni) would probably need MH or T-5.
ahh so much to chose from.... I don't know what to do with my tank.... I'm a big fan of having interesting, unique livestock, I've wanted a FOWLR, but figured 55 is too small to get anything that interesting? and I will admit I am very much intimidated by all the requirements of reefs, and I don't know much about anemones, but have always liked them... any suggestions lol?
Well, I really like anemones, so perhaps I'm biased. If I were you, I would get a nice size BTA (either green or rose, whichever you prefer, preferably tank-bred clone) and give the perculas some time to take up with it. BTA's can become large and make for a very interesting accent/specimen animal. With the fish you have and an anemone, I think you would find your tank fascinating. A BTA is a good place to start the venture into reef animals, i.e. cnidaria.
What kind of lighting do you have? Protein skimmer? Water change schedule?
What kind of lighting do you have? Protein skimmer? Water change schedule?
A HOB skimmer, depending on the type, can be fine. You would want to check out a lighting system. As far as water changes, I think 15 or 20% would be better. Also, I am partial to either ReefCrystals or Instant Ocean brand salt. But, different people have success with differen't things, there isn't only one way to do things. Do you run carbon? You will want to use some type of filtration most likely where you can put either carbon, chemipure, polyfilter, etc.
I currently use t-5 ho on one tank and MH on another. If you decide to go with a BTA, you would be fine with t-5 ho with 4 bulbs. Although more expensive, t-5 with individual reflectors make a significant difference in terms of light intensity. So I would recommend you get a fixture with those. I personally have a Tek light, though there are several brands that have the individual reflectors. As far as running carbon, you can simply hang a power filter on the back of the tank, I have a Hagen Aqua clear, there are lots of brands, and just put activated carbon in it. To be successful with an anemone and the fish you have, all the equipment you need is: a good light system, a filter (can be hang on, canister or internal power filter), a protein skimmer (which you have) a thermometer (keep water between 78-82F) and a couple of power heads for water circulation. I'm sure you already have the thermometer and power heads. You would want to cover the intakes of the powerheads with sponge filter to prevent your BTA from wandering into it (if you decide you want to go with an anemone). Water changes are the best way to maintain good water quality. It is a good idea to test your water weekly, a basic test kit that does ph, alkalinity, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, and calcium. You could probably get by without worrying about Ca and alkalinity if you are diligent with your weekly water changes. Also, after the tank has cycled, you realistically will not need to check ammonia and nitrites.
I personally have used tap water successfully for many years, but perhaps I've just been lucky. Recently I did purchase a RO/DI unit and I like it. No observable changes in my aquariums, but it is an added safety to ensure control over the water used for water changes.
I think a good book, like Bob Fenner's The Conscientious Marine Aquarist is a good beginner's book. Also, RC and WetWebMedia are great resources for information. In the many years that I've been keeping fish (since I was about 5) I've had very few lfs personnel that really knew what they were talking about. There are some, but many just want to sell you stuff and don't know what they are talking about.
Also, what kind of substrate do you have? How much live rock do you have or do you plan to have?
I personally have used tap water successfully for many years, but perhaps I've just been lucky. Recently I did purchase a RO/DI unit and I like it. No observable changes in my aquariums, but it is an added safety to ensure control over the water used for water changes.
I think a good book, like Bob Fenner's The Conscientious Marine Aquarist is a good beginner's book. Also, RC and WetWebMedia are great resources for information. In the many years that I've been keeping fish (since I was about 5) I've had very few lfs personnel that really knew what they were talking about. There are some, but many just want to sell you stuff and don't know what they are talking about.
Also, what kind of substrate do you have? How much live rock do you have or do you plan to have?
The likelihood of a shrimp being eaten by a BTA is slim--with some other species of anemone it would be more of a risk.
How long has your tank been up and running? What does the ammonia, nitrites and nitrates test? I would wait until a nice growth of coralline algae is beginning in the tank and you see little microcrustaceans, like gammarus and mysids swimming around and little bristle worms in the sand. I personally don't like any detectable nitrate, and so, I have a deep sand bed of fine aragonite to keep the nitrates down.
How long has your tank been up and running? What does the ammonia, nitrites and nitrates test? I would wait until a nice growth of coralline algae is beginning in the tank and you see little microcrustaceans, like gammarus and mysids swimming around and little bristle worms in the sand. I personally don't like any detectable nitrate, and so, I have a deep sand bed of fine aragonite to keep the nitrates down.
sorry missed that last post... it's been up about 2 months... nitrates actually have been a bit high.... i have a little less than half of the bed (below the live sand) is crushed coral... also I have been looking for any bristle worms and can't seem to find any in ym tank.....
For nitrate reduction, you will want about 4 or 5 inches of fine aragonite. I'm not sure how putting fine sand over crushed coral will go as far as nitrate reduction. It might be okay assuming the crushed coral was fresh when you put it in the tank. How deep is the crushed coral and how deep is the live sand? I would definitely wait until the microcrustaceans are numerous before adding an anemone. A good skimmer will help keep nitrates down indirectly by removing waste before it has a chance to become nitrate. Good water flow and barely skimming the top half inch or so of the gravel periodically also helps keep nitrates down. You don't want to disturb the deeper parts of the sand bed, but just the top. You can also add a stirring animal like a few nassarius snails, they keep the sand bed from becoming to filled with stuff. What brand of HOB protein skimmer do you have?
well I put the crushed coral in my tank awhile ago when I was ignorant and a LFS told me to... but theres about idk an inch or 2... and then like 2-3 inch of live sand..... I started going back to an old LFS that has been open since I was born and the people I talk to there always know what they are talking about... they will try to save me money as much as possible and I get all the same answers from them as I do on here so I am happy with that.... but anyway how long does it usually take for those micro crustaaceans to come about in a tank? anyway honestly I forget the brand of skimmer I have I bought it awhile ago and my mom threw out the box(being only 16)... It might say somewhere on it though... I'll go check
The little "bugs" as they are sometimes referred to will generally be apparent after a few months. Live rock generally has some on it and then they multiply from there. Your fish will eat the mysids and gammarus, but some will survive under and around the live rock. The bristle worms will not be eaten by the type of fish you have, and you can usually see right after the lights go out.
