(Another) DIY LED Controller - Simple Arduino Style

[katchupoy]

Hi again katchupoy I have checked out the availability of the BuckPuck drivers down under and I find that Cutter Electronics deal with them. They do the range from 350 to 1000 mA so I think I'll get some of those and stop messing around with these from Mornsun.
The BuckPuck 3021 D-E "“ 1000 looks like it will fit the bill if my choice is incorrect can someone come up and give me directions for driving Cree XP "“ G R5 "¦"¦5 LEDs in each channel 4 channels of White and 1 channel of royal Blues so 5 drivers should work out just fine.
I feel if I can use equipment that others are using I have a better chance of getting things working.
Thank you for the WELCOME to the site. Malc

@Capt.Malc,
I was not suggesting that you buy the Buckpuk, since i have no experience with them too. But I what I was saying was, its very similar to what you already have... Maybe just play with the code....?

What will happen if you reverse the values of these???

int bluepercent[11] = { 0, 1, 2, 5, 8 ,12, 18, 27, 44, 80, 255 };
int whitepercent[11] = { 0, 1, 2, 5, 8 ,12, 18, 27, 44, 80, 255 };

btw those values above are for analog drivers... since you have the PWM then you need to use the values below...

//int bluepercent[11] = { 0, 26, 52, 78, 103, 128, 154, 180, 205, 230, 255 };
//int whitepercent[11] = { 0, 26, 52, 78, 103, 128, 154, 180, 205, 230, 255 };

But you need to reverse it? 255 first then going down...???

Try that first.

C

 

[katchupoy]

Hi Katchupoy,

For your second controller build can you active the push button to create menu?

so we can input and change time.

thanks

Ladybugs, I believe someone already did? if you re-read this thread, I believe one of the code experts here already did add menu system.

Unfortunately, im not that good with coding. But if you're not in a hurry, sure I wan to add that feature too...

Imagine if I can add stuff to it via menu, i can actually exclude the RTC clock from the parts list and not use it anymore.

But yes, i will add that, maybe 2 years from now? just kidding... well it took me 19 months to add the temp feature... actually Im not even there. Busy assembling it and at the same time updating the website in real time. haha.

C

 

[katchupoy]

@Leximith,

You created your own code?? you might be an expert! May I ask you to stay with us here for a little while since I will be asking a lot of code questions soon.

I already assembled my No.5 and already loaded the original code, and so far no issues. Im about to alter now the original code to add this temp feature. Hope you can hang with us here...

BTW,

Welcome to my thread.... Im glad another expert could join us and hopefully help us.

C

 

[katchupoy]

@Leximith,

You created your own code?? you might be an expert! May I ask you to stay with us here for a little while since I will be asking a lot of code questions soon.

I already assembled my No.5 and already loaded the original code, and so far no issues. Im about to alter now the original code to add this temp feature. Hope you can hang with us here...

BTW,

Welcome to my thread.... Im glad another expert could join us and hopefully help us.

C

 

[Leximith]

Hi katchupoy

Thank you for the kind welcome, I must say though am by no means an expert . I've certainly played around with the code for some time now, but have had me fair share of frustrations as well when things haven't worked the way I'd intended.

I'd be happy to stick around and help out where I can. Have been subscribed to your post for a while now and used it to learn from before starting my own code.

I think your idea of just reversing the values is a good one to start off with, if that doesn't fix the problem then a more complicated method could be used.

Thanks for the great thread

Cheers

 

[Capt.Malc]

Many thanks katchupoy & Leximith for your speedy replies, Ok to start messing around with the program now I have it working with small LEDs I don’t want to push my luck.
Alright on the BuckPuck Dimmer and I understand but I have seen others on the forum mention them in place of the Mean Well ones and of cause I now find I can purchase them here in Australia so to change the drivers over is no problem and the old Drivers can be installed in the small 40 Gallon tank (next project). I have not seen any mention of the ones I have been trying to use from Mornsun on the forum so that must stand for something.
At least with having the same method of drive instead of being 180 degrees out in driving them will put me in a better picture and for $20.00 each for the drivers put it down as a learning curve.
When I start the small tank I will have gain some experience as not to get the dimmers first then try and program them but look on the net and place like Reef central.com for guidance.
I’ll get 5 drivers and let you know how I go in the future and many thanks for being there.
Many thanks .

Malc…..

 

[katchupoy]

CaptMalc, Im sure you are aware that using these Puck drivers needs an additional power supply. Do you have it already? The reason Im asking is, why not go with MeanWell direction? or acquiring MeanWell is not practical down there?

C

 

[ladybugs]

I'm not in hurry, coz i buy the stuff one by one .

Katchupoy if i'm using GLCD on UNO do you think can? coz i'm order wrong LCD, And i'm still confused choosing my LED between Aquastyle Led and from cutter. can u give me idea which one is better?

Coz i try emailing cutter ask about the suitable lenses for the LED but no respon until now . Any one have same experience like me?

 

[bj_sweeten]

katchupoy
well you have another follower now. I found your tutorioal a few weeks ago and have purchased all equiptment and am trying to get everything put together. i saw that you were doing another one today and am probably going something similar and get this one together and get my lights running then buy more stuff and get the temp and stuff going.
I do have a question though should we go ahead and get a arduino mega so we have more i/o.
Mind you i have no idea what is going on with electronics but i can follow directions. it just seems to me that if we have more i/o pins it will not limit capabilities later when we want to add ph, orp, or what have you.
wow 63 pages i have alot of reading to do.
thanks again
BJ

 

[InADream]

Katchupoy,

I love the thread, I am waiting for all of my parts to arrive to begin my controller. I am also following your controller build.

The biggest problem I am having so far is that I have two types of drivers, I have two P drivers and a D driver.

Will I be able to alter the code to be able to dim both drivers together. I know that the P driver has a smoother transition.

Can I still have the smooth transition with the P driver and still dim the D driver.

If I am confusing you please let me know. I am sure that I will have a ton more question once all the parts arrive.

Thanks,

 

[katchupoy]

@bj_sweeten,

WELCOME!
WELCOME!
WELCOME!

Glad you could join us too.

Your question about mega or uno? Well its your call. Are you for the long haul? Go with mega. But if you think controlling lights and wavemaker and temp monitor is ok for now, then go with Uno.

My goal was to build a simple controller with the cheapest ready available parts that everyone can buy off the shelf with little assembly required. So far my uno knock-off is doing the job.

I think just go with mega. A bit pricier, but loads of i/o pins to use in the future.

As of now here are my arduino uno pin assignments...
Pin0 - reserved
Pin1 - reserved
Pin2 - relay1
Pin3 - Blue LED driver (PWM)
Pin4 - LCD
Pin5 - LCD (PWM)
Pin6 - LCD (PWM)
Pin7 - LCD
Pin8 - relay2
Pin9 - (free PWM)
Pin10 - (free PWM)
Pin11 - White LED driver (PWM)
Pin12 - LCD
Pin13 - LCD

So right now without the temp monitor, i still have two available pins, 9 and 10. That is not even counting the analog pins.

and it took me 19 months to add (still trying to add) function 3 which is temp monitor. lol...

C

 

[katchupoy]

Katchupoy,

The biggest problem I am having so far is that I have two types of drivers, I have two P drivers and a D driver.

Thanks,

Do not worry, i have the same setup too... Before i was preaching for the "P" driver. Now I hate my "P" driver... lol.

As long as they are not in the same channel, i dont see any issues. May I suggest that you use your "P" on your whites. Since "P" is terrible at dimming down.

So use your "D" with the blues, so it can go way way down unlike the "P".

Dont worry about the coding. If they are separate channel, then we can separate the code too. Like mine.

BTW, How many "P" and "D" do you have?




Hope this helps.

 

[bj_sweeten]

Yeah now that i have had time to read through the thread ( well i am on page four) i have seen where you have said either will work. Sorry for the redundant question.
I have the uno right now. I downloaded the zip file from arduino.cc and tried playing with it my pc is not wanting to open everything:sad2:
like i said i am a complete idiot but i have a good buddy that does IT i am trying to get him to learn arduino

I have looked at some more of you diy stuff and have some more projects planned now
thanks
BJ

 

[InADream]

Thanks for the fast response.

Currently, I have 2 P drivers and 1 D driver. The p drivers run my blues and whites. The d driver is running my reds and uv. I will look through all the code to try and find a way to make it work . They will be on different channels to my arduino mega.

What I may do is get some moonlights and put them on a d driver. Then try and match the intensity and use the moonlights to dim all the way down. I would have to redo my whole setup to switch to the d driver.

Thanks,

 

[Capt.Malc]

Hi katchupoy and again thanks for the return, yes I looked at the Mean Well units down here and they were somewhat different to the ones I saw on your site and required also an external supply.
The Mean Well unit was just a small PCB at $50.00 each (AUS Dollars about the same as the US dollar) with stock number ELN-60-48D which doesn’t resemble the ones in your article by any means which are a mains operated switch mode unit with the same stock number.
It could be that the AC requirements don’t comply with Australian conditions which are a load of BS when you see some of the gear that comes into the country from other places to the North of us.
I have checked the BuckPuck units 3023 D-E 1000 which I intend to use and they have an inbuilt 5v reference voltage which could be used to feed the transistor.
When I get them I will let you know how things go …..Fingers and toes crossed.
Many thanks for being there………Best regards ……Malc…..

 

[Leximith]

@bj_sweeten,

So right now without the temp monitor, i still have two available pins, 9 and 10. That is not even counting the analog pins.

and it took me 19 months to add (still trying to add) function 3 which is temp monitor. lol...

C

What temp probes are you trying to implement, I have working code for use with Dallas DS18B20 one-wire sensors, would this help out in any way?

In my own sketch they are used to turn PC cooling fans on / off to allow active cooling of the LED heat sinks once above a predefined temp.

 

[katchupoy]

Lexismith,
I don't know yet. I'm salvaging my Rancho controller. I believe its a NTC thermistor, so I will start from there. Thanks for the offer I believe that it is similar so I will be requiring your assistance too?

 

[katchupoy]

Yeah now that i have had time to read through the thread ( well i am on page four) i have seen where you have said either will work. Sorry for the redundant question.
I have the uno right now. I downloaded the zip file from arduino.cc and tried playing with it my pc is not wanting to open everything:sad2:
like i said i am a complete idiot but i have a good buddy that does IT i am trying to get him to learn arduino

I have looked at some more of you diy stuff and have some more projects planned now
thanks
BJ

Try this website. I'm redocumenting my build and I think this one is even more easier to understand.

Google " caddnima sandbox "

Or

https://sites.google.com/site/caddnima/sandbox?pli=1

Hope this helps.

 

[katchupoy]

Thanks for the fast response.

Currently, I have 2 P drivers and 1 D driver. The p drivers run my blues and whites. The d driver is running my reds and uv. I will look through all the code to try and find a way to make it work . They will be on different channels to my arduino mega.

What I may do is get some moonlights and put them on a d driver. Then try and match the intensity and use the moonlights to dim all the way down. I would have to redo my whole setup to switch to the d driver.

Thanks,

Dan,
My suggestion is to use the D as your last light on. I fthat s the blue then use for the blue. If its the UV that will do the dusk dawn effect then use it there.

Hope I made sense.

 

[InADream]

The biggest question that I have is inside the code can I use both strings that dictate the ramp up and down percents.

I wan to be able to have the P driver using a smoother transition. I am not too worried about the uv lights dimming smoothly. Hope that makes sense.

Also, where can i find the most up to date code from this thread. I know everyone has adjusted it some, but is there a central location with it all.

Thanks