Another DT with ICH imagine that!!!

tribal21

New member
Hey guys I need alittle help...I have read and read till my eyes are crossed..I have a 190 DT with a few fish that have ICH..Powder Blue and a Hawian trigger.. This is an mix off aggressive fish and a few tangs..FOWLR not too many inverts left..I have a 30 gallon QT but I cant get all of my fish in it.. I don't want to treat with copper so I am left with hypoing... The question is should I hypo MY DT????? Will my rock and sand be OK..I can get the few inverts out..
Just confused on what to do...I am leaning more to the hypo of the display tank...
 
I know opinions will differ on this, but I would never dose copper in the display, only in a Qt, and only for a very short period of time. I would hypo the Display. The only issue is that you should keep the display without fish for 4-6 weeks; I don't think your fish can handle an extended stay in a 30 gallon QT. Can you add a UV sterilizer? I can't recommend some of these liquid additive miracle cures for ich, as I have not had good experience with them nor have I read others having success with them(ex: kick ich, etc.)
 
Thanks for the reply...What do you mean by a short period of time..I know that it seems to be at least a 4 week think and then some times 6 weeks...
Just how big of a risk am I taking hypoing the display tank..
 
Do you plan to hypo with all of the fish still in the display? This method is not really all that risky if you don't have inverts or coral to worry about. You have to gradually lower to a salinity of 1.009. Most LFS make it common practice to keep salinity levels low in the hopes to curb ich. I once tested my LFS water and it tested at 1.011. I had to do a slow drip acclimation (3+ hours) because my tank is at 1.025. I am still wary about using copper for Tangs, as I have read that it may cause long term negative effects on their health. 4 weeks sounds about right, I have also seen people run it 6-8 weeks in a QT, which would make me real nervous.

Right now I run a 57 Watt UV and ozone and don't have any issues with ich.

Good Luck...
 
Interesting read if you haven't already:

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-08/sp/index.php


"Copper is a highly effective medication against Cryptocaryon irritans when dosed and maintained in the proper concentration. The references I found varied in their recommended dosage:

Andrews et al, 1988: 0.15-0.30 mg/l
Bassleer, 1996: 0.25-0.30 mg/l
Gratzek et al, 1992: 0.115-0.18 mg/l
Noga, 2000: 0.15-0.20 mg/l
Untergasser, 1989: 0.15-0.20 mg/l*
*(recommends to be used with Methylene Blue)


I am going to abbreviate my advice and simply suggest to: "Always follow the directions of the manufacturer of whichever brand of copper medication you employ, and always use a test kit to verify the dosages." Copper has a narrow range of effectiveness and levels must be monitored at least daily.

Copper has several disadvantages in treating Ich. First, at too low a dosage, it is ineffective. Secondly, at too high a dosage, it could kill all your fish. Daily, or better yet twice daily, testing is required to maintain an appropriate and consistent level of copper. Even when within the appropriate ranges, some fish cannot tolerate copper. Some of the fish more sensitive to copper are lionfish, pufferfish, mandarins, blennies, and any other scaleless fish. Copper is also a known immunosuppressive, making fish more susceptible to secondary infections. Invertebrates are extremely sensitive to copper and cannot be housed in a tank undergoing this treatment. Lastly, copper cannot be used in the presence of any calcareous media. Live rock, sand, crushed coral, and dead coral skeletons will all adsorb copper, rendering it useless a treatment.

Copper specifically targets the infectious, free-swimming theront stage of this disease, as being buried deep in the skin of the host protects the trophonts; the cyst walls of the tomonts are similarly impervious (Colorni & Burgess, 1997). Knowing this and the life cycle of Cryptocaryon irritans, monitoring and dosing as needed in the evening right before the lights go out is going to be the most effective method. This should ensure optimal treatment concentrations at the most beneficial time.

Copper is probably the most popular method of treating Cryptocaryon irritans, but is not my first choice. It is far too labor intensive for me to recommend to the general public, has a large risk of overdose, lowers the fish's resistance to other diseases, and can cause serious damage to the kidney, liver, and beneficial intestinal flora of the fish being treated. Damage to intestinal flora is what many hobbyists point to as a possible contributing cause for Head and Lateral Line Erosion (HLLE), although there is currently no definitive cause of HLLE."
 
Yeah I guess I am leaving every thing in the tank..I don't have enough room for all the fish in the qt, and the display is infected..I am not using copper.. I have not read anything good about it and plus I have a lion in there..I do not have any corals or may inverts,I was just worried about my lr and ls left in the tank...

I am just scared to death about my fish...I am worried that it will stress them even more I have too much money invested to loose them...
Large blonde naso male
Large naso
Large powder blue
Hawaian Trigger
Picasso trigger
Large lunare wrasse
Lion
Dont sound like much but It is alot I have worked for..:)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11852413#post11852413 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tribal21

By the way does the steralizer help with ich..I have not read much on these..

That is a very debateable topic here on RC, many argue that UV's don't make much of an impact on the control of Ich. I tend to be in the camp that feels it does help. I pass the water coming out of the skimmer(which is running my ozone) directly through my UV and back into the display. I have not had issues with ich since, can't say as much for flukes though, I tend to treat the tank with Prazi every six months as a preventative for internal/external parasites.

BTW, what is your water change schedule like?
 
I recommend hypo your DT. I did this on a 550 FOWLR w/very good results. I'm in the final week of the treatment and no ick and the fish are very healthy. Just remember to watch your ph and alk. I also dose a little supplements to keep the essential elements up. I used coral vite due to the extra vitamins. Not sure it helped but the fish seem to have done better when I started adding it.

Good Luck!:)
 
Well I started hypoing the tank...We will see what happens..
Thanks guys for all your help I will post back with progress or problems...
 
This may be a silly question but does the salinity have to ba all the way down to 1.009 or can it be around 1.010 to 1.011
that is what the tank is now I can go lower if needed..
 
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