Another "help my zoas" post. Read 3 hours no answers??

beemer

beemer

New member
Ok I know the info is somewhere but I can't find it. I have read both Zoa dip threads with no definitive answer.

Help if you know the answer

I have kept reef tanks for about 10 years and have always had a zoa or two but never paid much attention to them. I just recently (2 weeks) started taking a big interest in them. Just bought about 20 frags online and have had them in my tank for 2 days.

17 out of 20 look great 3 not so much.

2 of the 3 frags have a white/clear skin almost jelly around the base and they aren't opening. One frag looks good but simply hasn't opened. (not worried about that one yet)

I have read about a white fungus but haven't found an answer. (lugols/furan2 and others)
I would really like to get this worked out ASAP. I have 3 gal of R/O water temp/PH ready but...I only have Kent Iodine Supplement. I may be able to get Lugols tomorrow but may have to wait for mail order.

I just rechecked all my peramaters and its rock solid. 125 half round tank. 2x400w 10k reeflux (no actinics) zoas are on the sand with a tunze nano stream (6025) directed at em. not to much just moderate flow . I will try and get pics ASAP but two questions.
Anybody know what the white/clear skin is?
can I for sure use Kent Iodine supplement?

Thanks
jerod
 
Re: Another "help my zoas" post. Read 3 hours no answers??

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10072007#post10072007 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by beemer
Ok I know the info is somewhere but I can't find it. I have read both Zoa dip threads with no definitive answer.

Help if you know the answer

I have kept reef tanks for about 10 years and have always had a zoa or two but never paid much attention to them. I just recently (2 weeks) started taking a big interest in them. Just bought about 20 frags online and have had them in my tank for 2 days.

17 out of 20 look great 3 not so much.

2 of the 3 frags have a white/clear skin almost jelly around the base and they aren't opening. One frag looks good but simply hasn't opened. (not worried about that one yet)

I have read about a white fungus but haven't found an answer. (lugols/furan2 and others)
I would really like to get this worked out ASAP. I have 3 gal of R/O water temp/PH ready but...I only have Kent Iodine Supplement. I may be able to get Lugols tomorrow but may have to wait for mail order.

I just rechecked all my peramaters and its rock solid. 125 half round tank. 2x400w 10k reeflux (no actinics) zoas are on the sand with a tunze nano stream (6025) directed at em. not to much just moderate flow . I will try and get pics ASAP but two questions.
Anybody know what the white/clear skin is?
can I for sure use Kent Iodine supplement?

Thanks
jerod
Click to expand...

I believe its shedding.... like peeling skin off... I've had some do that and it usually results in the polyp dead in a few days. I've read a few posts where it was mentioned as part of a growth sequence as well..... like shrimp will shed as they grow.

Kent Iodine... Iodine is typically Iodine. Lugols is used because of its concentration levels. you can use it, but you may need to use more of it.

If its fungus furan-2 is your best bet though.
 
sick zoa

sick zoa

Thanks for the info on "shedding"
I have hear Ioding suppliment is ok and heard it is not? Have you used it?
Heres a few pics. BTW no signs of nudi or eggs or zoa pox
IMG_2487a.jpg
[/IMG]
IMG_2488a.jpg
[/IMG]
Hope these pics worked...
 
One more pics.

One more pics.

you can see a few other spots also. Some zoa are closed because I had to turn the lights back on to get the pic
IMG_2485a.jpg
 
the white jelly around the polyps is usually a bad sign. try putting them in a less intense lighted area of the tank with good flow. most likely it will melt away, but you can try furan2 or lugol's iodine dip to see if that will help. if melting away does occur, xacto it away to prevent it from spreading further.
 
Kigs,
Thanks but no thanks! ;)
I had a bad feeling about that. Any imput about if I can use kent iodine suppliment instead of lugols? Thats all i have today
 
I use Kent iodine for my dips, and have never had a problem.
Some people will say it doesn't work. It does. Just add a little bit more to your R/O water.
This is based on my experiences.
 
hexdagain,
Thanks finally some one who has actually done it. How many drops in a dip and how much R/O r u using? Have you had it "work" on affected corals?
I went ahead and dipped one of the worst of my frags a few min ago. I used 3 drops in a gallon of RO. See what happens in the morning.

hexadagain, florida! you must be swing shift worker.

hopin for the best.
J
 
Kevin,
Bah the emotional ups and downs....."huh thats weird...bah they'll be ok.....oh no I have zoa pox, need furan 2, oh its ok they are just shedding....oh no its the white funguns thier all going to die! The horror.. Bah no sweat it's nothing they'll be fine!"
LoL why is it if something has color it is immediately easier to kill. Can't kill those stupid aptasia for the life of me. Well the lights just came on so I will see if the dip helped or not.
Jerod

Btw had some regular brown zoas on a few rocks that made it through 3 months of cooking. No lights and probably crappy water for 3 months and they actually multiplied.
 
Hope I didn't sound bad in my last post. Just commenting on the emotional ups and downs we all go through with our attempt to care for our little pieces of the ocean
J
 
I've bought zoa's on many occations where some colonies would open right up and others would take 3 or so days to even see light. Other times some would die off but there would be surviving polyops which would multiply after a week or so.

Ups and downs is the name of the game and I feel your pain!
 
I agree with aquarius77, i've seen that many times on my zoas. Particularly on new zoas that have just been dipped. Good flow, low light should do the trick IME.
 
Any jellycoating around my zoas, especially if I just got them, usually means they are going to die. I have tried the increased flow, but with no success. If the polyps are entirely shruken down, then dont expect them to come back, but yours look like they have a chance. Good luck.
 
Thanks all. dipped the "spongebob fireskirts" last night and they do look a little better. I did have one i think the LOTR or monsterlips totally melt last night. Only a flesh mat left. That one actually looked good yesterday. It is the one in the 3rd pic front and center on the frag disk. Time to get the flashlight and look for predators.

Well got some Furan2 after 4 stores still couldn't find any Lugols at LFS but will use the kent Iodine supplement.

Quick question should I dip all zoa or only the questionable ones? I'm leaning towards all of them.

Thanks again all.
Jerod
 
If my new zoos seem to be shedding their skin and not opening. I blast the holy hell out of them with the turkey baster and blow all the skin off. I just relate it to the harsh ammounts of lugols i used to dip them. I have not lost any zoos except to amphipods when i had them in a ten gallon tank with no pod preadtors.
I still say the look ok and they will pull through just fine. If the whole frag was shrunk up and melting id say different but i dont see that.
 
thanks Kevin,
I am prepping the dip water now! They all get it. gotta find the turkey baster.
I had a bad feeling something ate those. They were 99% good late last night. Open top tank cant have a wrasse unless they can jump themselves back in. Mandarin the only other good choice? Only Purple tang and 2 clowns right now.
J
 
I keep a sixline in a very open tank. I have only pulled him from the overflow box once. I think a wrasse is pretty smart, he goes no where near it now.
I keep a ornate (christmass) wrasse in a ten inch deep tank 36 x 18 and he never jumps either.
I also have a green wrasse, no idea on the species, (took me months to get him to eat prepared foods) and i keep him in an open 55 gallon sump and he has never jumped either.

So IME wrasses are not too prone to jump. I have 3 different wrasses in 3 different open tanks and no jumpers.
 
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