Another post about Dinoflagellates

oblio

New member
After reading/following Laserjim's post and not wanting to somehow highjack his tread i am starting a new one. I keep trying to identify what I have and "think" its Dinos. I get a super deep red wispy growth on the sand bed in apparently lower flowing spots. It fades as the lights fade, Ive tried vacuuming it out and stirring it up it always comes back. Ive not blacked out the tank as its a slow grower. Once I vacuum it out, it takes days to even start to put a tint on the sandbed, from there it grows and gets deeper red. There are tiny bubbles rising from the growth (this single feature is what leads me to believe its Dinos) Please advise if I am mistaken. BTY all corals seem to be growing and doing fine, consuming about 70ml of 2 part daily added back in by dosers.
I wanted to ask the group as I am starting to lean towards Laserjims lead and try this DynoX stuff.
My readings are pretty standard,
temp 79-80
Alk 8.1
calc 440
ph 8.1/2 during the day
Phosphate always undetectable with Hanna. (this irritates me to no end)
Nitrates 8 <--used to be <1 before reactor was added, been steady for months.
Mag 1320 ish, I only check it every few months and adjust if required.
sal 1.026

Photoperiod 10am -10 pm with the kessil 360we's then only ramp up to 45% and thats only for 2 hours before heading back down.
also 2 ATI Blue plus 36" t5 supplements. new in April.

The phosphate thing, I know people are going to say "this is a false reading due to the algae, and I agree, however relatively speaking these algae patches are so small, at most I would say I have a 6" by 6" combined patch before vacuuming again. Just seems odd its that darn good at consuming phosphate. Shrug.

I feed 2 frozen cubes 2x a day, my fish are honestly friggn fat, I used to feed very sparingly and changed up about 6 months ago. The dinos seem unchanged in the feeding change. I am running a skimmer and a reactor but turned off the GFO over a month ago, i was only running it an hour a day in an attempt to not change anything drastically in the enviroment.

Any ideas out there? does it sound like dinos? I would take a picture but they always come out so dam bad its hardly worth looking at. If its dinos I will jump on the Dyno X bandwagon and give that shot, however it is pretty specific about only being designed for Dinos, hence the post.
 
I would run the gfo 24-7

I was, GFO and Carbon in 2x 2LF reactors. After I stared the reactor I ran the reactors as usual 24x7 for about a month, then cut back more and more via a timer, at this point they don't run. this process took months and months. I have read people saying not to run both the GFO and a pellet reactor. During this transition again the red growth has changed little, if anything I believe its slowed down with the reactor running as opposed to the GFO/Carbon.
 
I'm kind of going through the same thing. Which Hanna are you using? I'm using the phosphorus ulr and getting a reading of 19ppb. I took a water sample to faois and tested 0ppm on the phosphate checker. I believe the phosphate checker only measures organic/inorganic, can't remember which one, while the phosphorus ulr checker detects phosphors before its converted to po4. I'm getting a little out of my league here, someone correct me if I'm way off.
 
I'm kind of going through the same thing. Which Hanna are you using? I'm using the phosphorus ulr and getting a reading of 19ppb. I took a water sample to faois and tested 0ppm on the phosphate checker. I believe the phosphate checker only measures organic/inorganic, can't remember which one, while the phosphorus ulr checker detects phosphors before its converted to po4. I'm getting a little out of my league here, someone correct me if I'm way off.

I don't have the UL version. Mine is the 713. I purchased it from a fellow reefer and have never once seen it read anything but zero. quite irritating tbo
 
I would definitely test it on the Ulr checker, I'm in Palm Harbor and willing to test it for you. PM me if you feel like taking a road trip.
 
I don't understand the cut back of gfo I have been running it for years 24-7 and everything is fine ....I just started running carbon last year I'm still on the fence with the carbon but everything is fine so far...and I run both in reactors that's the best way .
 
I don't understand the cut back of gfo I have been running it for years 24-7 and everything is fine ....I just started running carbon last year I'm still on the fence with the carbon but everything is fine so far...and I run both in reactors that's the best way .

^^^this

I picked up a tlf reactor from faois yesterday and the gfo dropped my phosphorus from 19ppb to 3ppb overnight
 
I would definitely test it on the Ulr checker, I'm in Palm Harbor and willing to test it for you. PM me if you feel like taking a road trip.

I would like to test with the ULr checker but what would I honestly learn? I suspect that your tester WILL tell me that there is something there, again what would be the appropriate next step if that was the case? If your test showed no levels or very low levels, what would be the appropriate step? Too many times in the hobby Ive worked to learn a specific level of something only to say "ok, now what?"

I guess running both the reactor and GFO wont hurt much I just figured it was more of a one or the other type of senario to be honest im not sure how I arrived at that conclusion, tonight I will change media and start up again.

Again mostly I was asking what the consensus was on "what I might be fighting" as opposed to how I might fight it at this point.

Last night I did observe that the algae was very dark red and as soon as the lights dimmed from my highest point the algae faded with the lights, before lights out you can barely see anything on the sand bed.
 
dino problem

dino problem

Sounds more like cyanobacteria than dinos. Could you post any kind of picture even if its crap just to see what we are trying to fix. When I had my bout with dinos the lights off period never really diminished them like you are describing but cyano does and the dinos were always tan to brown in color never red. Sorry no expert just my own experience
 

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Sounds like maybe cyno but sitting here on a phone it's hard to help diagnose, that's all we really can do is throw our two coins in
 
+1 looks like cyano..... Can you adjust your flow to hit those areas a little more? It usually finds the dead spots in your tank, also get your gfo back online and give a little time it should go away fairly quickly
 
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