Any LED DIY'ers build with these types ?

Jacob6364

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LED chips: : EPILEDS EP-B3838V-A3 38mil LED chips composition: 20000K*40 chips + 453nm*60 chips DC Forward Voltage (VF): 32-36V DC Forward Current (IF): 3500mA max Viewing Angleî: 140 Degree Intensity Luminous (Iv): 550
 
Efficiency is our main priority when it comes to DIY and these types of LEDs are just not up to the standards. Yes, I have used some of these HP LEDs for experiment reasons and now they simply sit in my garage collecting dust..

Tahir
 
So what kind of experiments? Par readings,..is there any reviews? Sps growth studies?

It would be nice to work with there modular design
 
Here is the link to the 50 model

Color Temperature/Wavelength: 24 chips 10000K + 24 chips 445-449nm Royal Blue LED chips: EPILEDS EP-B4545V-A3 45x45 mil DC Forward Voltage (VF): 25.6V-28.8V DC DC Forward Current (IF): 1800-3800mA max Viewing Angle: 120 Degree Life span: 30000 hours guarantee

http://www.epileds.com.tw/data/134.pdf
 
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In the flashlight modding world Cree is supreme; Seoul made some progress and did well with the SSC-P7... Luminous SS-t 50's and 90's are rivaling HID.

But when it comes to overall efficiency and build quality most people can't do better than Cree, they update their product line constantly with more efficient and/or more powerful emitters. And for a light fixture that is often on for long periods of time, efficiency and durability is very important.

I can't city any experience with the LEDs you are looking at; but many cheaper asian "bargain" emitters are manufactured by cutting corners where possible. I'm not a Cree fanboy, but I def respect there consistent tech advances each year!
 
I hear what you both are saying I guess, but it all sounds like opinion.

As far as geographics of manufacting, I would think that would no difference of the quality.

Hard engineering testing and trial would be the answer to this question,..I will dig further and perhaps do some testing
 
If your real question is "can I use this successfully on a fish tank?" then we really need to know your specific criteria before we can answer. Do you care about upfront cost? Longterm operating cost? Getting a specific color? Suitability for use with a specific driver? Availability of optics? Those are typical concerns people have when doing DIY LEDs, and they can all be answered, factually, by looking things up in datasheets - you don't need to determine the answers experimentally.
 
What I am looking for is something for a large tank..80 length, 34 height, 40 width. As of now my planning is 3 to 4 400 watt metal halides and vho actinic. It seems you could use 7-8 of the 100 watt led and light the tank .
 
I am looking for cheaper electric bill but also able to keep the same corals as I can with metal halides.
 
I am looking for cheaper electric bill but also able to keep the same corals as I can with metal halides.

Then you will probably find that these are not going to be the ideal solution. Their best benefit is probably that you only need a few compared to other LED options. Their biggest drawback is likely to be their efficiency which based on other Chinese ebay emitters is going to be just over half the efficiency of a top line Cree emitter such as an XM-L or XP-G (or XP-E with respect to the royal blues). You may save a little in upfront costs but if you are trying to reduce your electricity bill then these are going to be less than ideal.
 
I have been following the LED lighting thing for quite a while and really wasn't a believer that it could be used for Reef aquatics until i seen a few myself.
But after reviewing the price, some were simply outrageous in cost, yea sure you save money on the bill every month, but in my experience the offset along with the inflation of costs in general,..it doesn't pay.
So to answer your first question; yes, cost is one of the issues but not the foremost.
Design and modularity is, I like things to be clean, manicured and easy to maintain in the event a corrective action is to take place on the lighting design.
I have admired many designs on this site, as well as the internet in general and I have seen many that deserve great merit, and others that are total ghetto design. You can see who is qualified to build such electrical components and some who are just bring an unsafe condition to them.
One thing that is un avoidable with the single cree's is all the wires and soldering that present all kinds of issues of oxidation of electrical components, especially in the saltwater atmosphere.
I have seen some on the market with small cards and neat jumper wires to make wiring easy, but the cost of the convenience brings you in the range of fixture that is on the market.
Another issue I have had with the singles is the need for either many drivers, or the use of very high voltage (250vdc range) which present huge safety concerns with the recipe of 200 gallons of saltwater below it. Many of these designs are being built by un qualified electrical workers (and yes I am 22 plus years) .
The 50 0r 100 watt hybrids I would think would be a safe modular approach to new designs, they both are available in 10,000k 0r 20,000k stand alone or 10,000k and 20,000k with 429-449nm spectrum incorporated in the bulb.
I would think that any of these in certain combinations would make LPS, SPS and frag grow out tanks flourish with aesthetics in mind, not to mention saving money, incorporating modular design and first and foremost safety.
I have performed many searches on this site and haven't found any design, there are a few on youtube, so are these LED modules new to the market?
 
Awesome design Firechild, that is what I am looking for, do you have any more pics? or any other info that would show your build? look great!
 
Unfortunately my build is still underway and that photo is about as far as I've got so far. I'm building DIY drivers at the moment but once they're done, it'll all come together pretty quickly (or so I keep telling myself). Like you, I hate the look of dozens of wires being visible and I wanted a fixture that had the appearence of something commercial rather than clearly DIY. I hope I'm headed in the right direction. I had the fixture custom made in Japan, the MCPCBs made in China and assembled locally. It's been rather painstaking but IMO worth it if I get the result I'm after.
 
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