Anyone have an ORP monitor?

NCNBilly

NCNBilly

Black thumb reefer
Premium Member
I'm running out of things to test for in my tank of doom. My nitrates are slowly dropping (hanging at about 30ppm this week), but I still have a good feeling that this isn't the only things causing me to lose corals.

I'm thinking that an ORP reading might give me another perspective on what's happening, but I don't want to buy an ozone system if that isn't the real problem - hoping someone has a monitor that they wouldn't mind bringing over or letting me borrow for a bit.

T.I.A.
 
without using ozone though the readings may not be very consistant or high. When I have checked my tank it has been anywhere from 290 to 340(I don't use Ozone, yet). I would like to see it at 340, it is on average between 300-320 most times when I check it.(oh I am using my dual controller and have a seperate "old"montior that needs the probe).
Matt
 
Thanks! I'm not sure I want to get into ozone without checking my orp - I have a feeling its pretty low.

(I had a feeling either you or Bobby had something, ha ha ha)
 
I'll bring it to the swap, or if you want to come get it before then, you are more than welcome to. I can take the probe I have and let you use it for a little bit, just need that back, not the monitor if you wanted to keep it and get a probe later on for it. Let me know what you want to do.
Matt
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14218675#post14218675 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by volcom69
May i ask why you think its your orp for just curious. What corals are you losing.
Click to expand...

At this point, it's process of elimination really.

Temp: 79.2 to 79.9
pH: 7.95 to 8.05
Sal: 1.0264 using gettanked salt (prob switching to IO for $$ reasons)
Alk: 10dkh
Ca: 430
Mag: 1530
Ammonia:0
Nitrite:0
Nitrate: 25 (down from ???)
P: 0.03 (barely detectable on Salifert)
Flow: around 30X (Mag9 return, 2 K4s)
Light: 4x54T5, 2x250MH XM 14K
Remote DSB - 8" x 24" (around 110lbs)

Doing 10G changes every few days. When I added the SPS last time, the NO3 was around 50 - I think, which according to Bobby was where his tank was at the time. I THOUGHT my NO3 was 0, bad test kit..

Weird things about my tank:
1) I run full strength kalk, and a Ca reactor to keep the levels stable. My tank is barely stocked, and not much coralline - where it goes is a mystery.

2) Low pH - running full strength kalk, skimmer is plumbed to outside air and added another powerhead with venturi also to outside air.

3) Zoos haven't grown an appreciable amount in the 7 years I've had them and spend most of the time partially closed.

4) SPS corals do great in my tank for about 2 weeks, then STN.

5) Xenia, which was doing well, is now almost fully retracted all the time. Had this since the swap, started looking bad when I switched GFO for carbon in my reactor.

6) Sulfur reactor is having trouble getting the correct bacteria started, even with the direct addition of NBC#9.

7) even with NO3 elevated, I see very little chaeto growth - it usually gets covered in cyano or diatoms.

I've spent rediculous amounts of time and money on my setup, and I've never really had the tank thrive. I use all top-of-the line stuff, but I'm at a 100% loss. The ORP is really one of the last tests to do. At this point, I suspect some serious bacterial or biological problem that's messing with the water chemistry.

I've considered moving all living stuff to another tank and starting over.
 
Is there a chance you have a foreign metal or chemical in your tank somewhere. Maybe some non-reefsafe expoxy or something else?
 
I've run Cuprisorb in the reactor that didn't show any color change after a month, so I don't think so - especially considering the toxicity of heavy metals. I've only ever used the reef epoxy and superglue for frags.

I had a screw rust in my change water barrel, but per Randy it's most iron oxide and not an issue.

Can anyone think of other tests to run?
 
I assume you run your makeup water through an RO/DI, Even with that if you have an option to get your water from another source you can try that.
 
Yup, all RO/DI membranes and filters have been replaced on a regular basis from Buckeye Field Supply. I actually get 0 TDS from RO, but run it through DI anyway to rule that out.

Keep the questions coming, I hope I missed something stupid. :)
 
Hmmmm...possibly... sump is a 20L and fuge is a brute trashcan, which are both ok. frag tank is a rubbermaid(i think) clothes box. i get a lot of bacterial growth in there too.
 
I would check your po4 with a hanna meter salfert test kits are not very good for that. I use hanna and get 0.00-0.03. Your nitrates are pretty high, and might be your source for you sps stning on you. Did you ever try any way to get your no3 down to a low level. I run mine about 2.5-.5, maybe we can find a way to bring them down for you. Hows iodine levels in your tank maybe your iodine is depleted, how about stronium do you add any of these to your tank at all. Hows your skimmer you skim wet or dry and how much do you skim in a day/days and is it dark or light colored. I think your main problem is no3 and po4 in your tank right now and there is a reason its in your tank or leaking in your tank from something. Are you using any po4 remover in a reactor at all, how about carbon are you using any of it if so how are you using and how much. Sorry for all the question just tryin to help you figure it out.
 
run both gfo and carbon. im cycling in my sulfur reactor to kill the nitrates, but its taking its sweet time. id love to check phos on a hanna. ive never tested iodine or strontium, because i change the water on a pretty regular basis.

skim pretty wet, comes out dark coffee about half a cup a day.

i think ill swap out the plastic frag tank for a 10 gallon or something tomorrow.
 
Usually rubermaid makes a pretty good plastic to use, but you never know i guess. Is your tank clean of algea or does it have a bunch of nusience algea in it. Do you have to wipe the glass often of algea. I think if you can find where the po4 or no3 is leaking in that would help your problem. I know your sps stn is most likely from your high levels of no3 and probably po4. Make sure your not over doing your gfo. Have you ever tried to use the liquid nitate stuff called AZNO3 i think thats what it is called i heard that can work pretty good. I agree the sulfer reactor takes a long time to kill nitates. Whats your feeding schedule like you feed real heavy, or what do you dose in your tank and how much. How about your new saltwater what does the no3-po4 measure in there. Hanna is a very good po4 reader im sure its not dead on but its pretty close so im glad ive got one. If you ever want to test it let me know or something we can see what you got.
 
It's quite likely that the frag tank is leaching something. I don't really get much algea growth in the display (or cyano except for a few places) but the frag thank is really covered.

I haven't been feeding much, Monk can attest to my skinny fish. I've been hand feeding them mysis since I found the problem, and NO3 has been on the steady decrease, just not fast enough for me.

I've been reading about az-no3, but by the time I get it and start dosing, it's more than likely that the sulfur reactor will have kicked in.

I think this is what I used:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=60143-315-FG3C3300CLR&lpage=none
 
That could be it. Especially if you have lots of algae growth int here and no other parts of the system. Time to go to WalMart, visit the kitchen aisle, and get some food safe plastic. :-)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14229616#post14229616 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reeftard73
That could be it. Especially if you have lots of algae growth int here and no other parts of the system. Time to go to WalMart, visit the kitchen aisle, and get some food safe plastic. :-)
Click to expand...

The wife ok'd me to buy a sheet of 1/2" acrylic, as long as I make her a few things. :rollface:
 
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