Anyone have any 6" PVC or other overflow material?
- Thread starter NeveSSL
- Start date
Angela Short
New member
What diameter?
Angela Short
New member
Am I the only one confused? :lol: Are you wanting to make a overflow or just need the PVC to construct a durso or stockman standpipe and the return plumbing within the 6" overflow? They are pretty cheap to make but if someone had the right size pippes and already opened glue laying around it would save you some money. I have some extra peices of pipe and a few fittings but what size is the drain and the return holes you are hooking to?
What pump are you planning on running and the size outlet it has? I have some 1" spaflex you can use for it and just step it down if its a 3/4". I also have some micilaniouse 45's and 90's and a few male fittings for bulkheads and such in a big box you are welcome to if I had a little more info on what your set up will need.
What pump are you planning on running and the size outlet it has? I have some 1" spaflex you can use for it and just step it down if its a 3/4". I also have some micilaniouse 45's and 90's and a few male fittings for bulkheads and such in a big box you are welcome to if I had a little more info on what your set up will need.
rustrocker
New member
I believe that he's looking for a length of 6" PVC to cut in half to do a DIY Overflow.
I would actually not reccomend trying to silicone plastic to glass, it will have a much higher rate of failing vs. a glass overflow.
I would have Glass Cages or another glass company cut you a few pieces of glass to do either a corner or a box overflow, and then bend an acrylic cover with the teeth, etc.
Despite their apparent reputation, they can't really go wrong cutting you a few pieces of glass and bending some acrylic.
I would actually not reccomend trying to silicone plastic to glass, it will have a much higher rate of failing vs. a glass overflow.
I would have Glass Cages or another glass company cut you a few pieces of glass to do either a corner or a box overflow, and then bend an acrylic cover with the teeth, etc.
Despite their apparent reputation, they can't really go wrong cutting you a few pieces of glass and bending some acrylic.
NeveSSL
Got tubes?
Precisely!
Sorry Angela! I should have been more clear (as usual... hehe). I am planning on cutting the PVC in half and cutting teeth into the top of it for an overflow.
As far as other plumbing, I don't have a concrete plan yet, but the general plan is to have either a 15 tall or a 20 long (I would have to do some stand modifications for a 20, but I really need the extra 4" for my refugium). I've got a Quiet One 3000 return pump that will go to a SQWD and from there through 1" bulkheads. The SCWD is 3/4", and my bulkheads and pump I already have, both of which are 1", so I'll have to do some stepping up and down from them, but that shouldn't be a HUGE problem.
I wouldn't mind doing a glass overflow. Glasscages would be charging me a total of about $100 or a little more for an overflow with acrylic cover, though, and that wouldn't be cool. I am pricing glass to buy from them to divide my sump up, though, so I would think it would be feasible to measure out and get a glass overflow cut. I'm just not too sure on bending my own acrylic!
I can get the smaller acrylic for bending around the overflow for pretty cheap at Lowes, though. I would think that 1/8" would be ok for that. So that could be a bit of a trip... hehe.I will look into it, but I may have to stick with my PVC... heh.
Thanks for the replies!
Brandon
Angela Short
New member
OH, I see! 
Just a thought but would 1/2 of a 6" pipe give you enouph room to even put something like a durso and the return pipes in? The dursos take up some space in the overflow from the 90 thing sticking out. I know my 1.5 duro and 1" return was pretty tight in a 10" overflow. And with a tall tank if you don't have something like that it will sound like niagra falls going down the overflow splashing.
Also you may wantto see if you can run the SCWD on something like a closed loop over the back if you don't get the tank drilled for a CL. I have been told they really restrict the flow and with only a quiet one 3000 (780 gph) add in the head and then the SCWD also you may not be real pleased with the flow it gives you.
That way you could really plumb the SWCD in so it gives you a left/right wave action also.
Is GC's charging you a extra $100 for just the 3 sections of glass!? Or is that with the 2 holes at $20 each included? If it's $100 for the holes/glass and acrylic cover the time and headach would be worth it to just have them do it. You still have to fork over the $40 for the 2 holes regardless so $60 more to be done with it doesn't sound bad. I have learned over the years DIY's can save you some money but more often than not they are about the same price by the time you make 900 trips to lowes to get all the tools/parts/peices/silicone/caulk gun....on and on and on.... Maybe its just me because I am a "GIRL" though! :lol:
Also remember you have to get the highth just right on the overflow or your water level will be to high or low. I modded my overflow with a dremmel and got a little wild so now my water runns about 1" lower than the black rim
.
Sorry so long, you know me, always full of ideas and opinions!
Just a thought but would 1/2 of a 6" pipe give you enouph room to even put something like a durso and the return pipes in? The dursos take up some space in the overflow from the 90 thing sticking out. I know my 1.5 duro and 1" return was pretty tight in a 10" overflow. And with a tall tank if you don't have something like that it will sound like niagra falls going down the overflow splashing. Also you may wantto see if you can run the SCWD on something like a closed loop over the back if you don't get the tank drilled for a CL. I have been told they really restrict the flow and with only a quiet one 3000 (780 gph) add in the head and then the SCWD also you may not be real pleased with the flow it gives you.
That way you could really plumb the SWCD in so it gives you a left/right wave action also.
Is GC's charging you a extra $100 for just the 3 sections of glass!? Or is that with the 2 holes at $20 each included? If it's $100 for the holes/glass and acrylic cover the time and headach would be worth it to just have them do it. You still have to fork over the $40 for the 2 holes regardless so $60 more to be done with it doesn't sound bad. I have learned over the years DIY's can save you some money but more often than not they are about the same price by the time you make 900 trips to lowes to get all the tools/parts/peices/silicone/caulk gun....on and on and on.... Maybe its just me because I am a "GIRL" though! :lol:
Also remember you have to get the highth just right on the overflow or your water level will be to high or low. I modded my overflow with a dremmel and got a little wild so now my water runns about 1" lower than the black rim
.Sorry so long, you know me, always full of ideas and opinions!
NeveSSL
Got tubes?
Tis all good, Angela! I appreciate your ideas and opinions.
Thats a good point on the overflow...
The price I was quoted was $25 per hole and $75 for an overflow. I can drill the holes, thats not a problem. The thing that makes me mad is that they have a tank the size of mine for $125 WITH an end overflow on it in the "specials section"! And I'll be paying more than twice that for mine! All for starphire! lol... Oh well... thats the way it goes. I should have checked there first...
I really wish I knew what to do as far as noise goes. I really REALLY need to save as much money as I can at this point... I've gone over budget (imagine that on a reef tank
).
Angela, do Dursos have to be plumbed from the bottom of the tank or can they be from the side? I was thinking they had to be from the bottom. I think that may be ok even if they don't have to be from the bottom, though, as I would imagine they don't use tempered glass at glasscages. I'll double check, though.
As far as the SCWD, without it I'm looking at 10x flow, and thats definitely enough. I really don't mind taking a bit of a hit on flow. I may go ahead and drill out two other holes and close them off in case I want a closed loop later. I'd prefer not to for now, but we'll see what happens.
*sigh* Decisions, decisions. I've got a lot more stuff to figure out!
Thanks Angela! You rock!
Brandon
Thats a good point on the overflow...
The price I was quoted was $25 per hole and $75 for an overflow. I can drill the holes, thats not a problem. The thing that makes me mad is that they have a tank the size of mine for $125 WITH an end overflow on it in the "specials section"! And I'll be paying more than twice that for mine! All for starphire! lol... Oh well... thats the way it goes. I should have checked there first...
I really wish I knew what to do as far as noise goes. I really REALLY need to save as much money as I can at this point... I've gone over budget (imagine that on a reef tank
). Angela, do Dursos have to be plumbed from the bottom of the tank or can they be from the side? I was thinking they had to be from the bottom. I think that may be ok even if they don't have to be from the bottom, though, as I would imagine they don't use tempered glass at glasscages. I'll double check, though.
As far as the SCWD, without it I'm looking at 10x flow, and thats definitely enough. I really don't mind taking a bit of a hit on flow. I may go ahead and drill out two other holes and close them off in case I want a closed loop later.
I'd prefer not to for now, but we'll see what happens.*sigh* Decisions, decisions.
I've got a lot more stuff to figure out!Thanks Angela! You rock!
Brandon
TitansFan
Active member
Just a thought... You could use a trash can to make an overflow. It would be cheap and easy to make the overflow teeth. Doodoobrown did it and it turned out quite well. Here is a thread with a pic of it:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=919513
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=919513
Angela Short
New member
I saw doodoos trash can mod and it looked like it would work fine. Hmmm, not sure about putting a 90 on the bottom of a durso if it would somehow cause a vacume or something like thatr and it not work right. But if you do a PCV or "trash can" overflow just make it about 6-8" tall from the top of the water down and then 90 it out the back wall to the sump. It shouldn't make much noise just falling that far. I have a old 29 that was done that way but the water fell all the way down to the bottom then 90d out the back wall. The return came in right beside it at a 90 and up over the overflow but you could just bypass the 90 in the overflow and go right up and over the rim to cut out an extra 90 on the return, know what I am describing? I confuse myself most days!
I have all the plumbing (short 1 bulkhead) from that tank layning around somewhere you are welcome to. I think the drain is 1' and the return was 3/4" with loc line on the end. you would need 1 bulkhead.
If you feel confident about not breaking the glass I would just go ahead and cut some CL holes if you don'e want and power heads in the tank. You can always just cap them like you said and never use them for that matter but it sure would be nice to have them installed already if you decide to go that route. I had mine capped off for a month or so while I worked on the oceans motions plumbing. But I admit my CL is not all I hoped it would be... I still have 2 big seios in there for added water movement.
The 8-10x turnover range you may still get some dead spots that cyano will love. Esecially if you are trying to get all your flow from your return split 2 ways on a SCWD. Turnover rates is a little misleading IMO. You can have 40X turnover and still have dead spots if the flow is not set up right in enouph directions. You can always go back and add your CL or a few PH's if you are not happy though.
I have all the plumbing (short 1 bulkhead) from that tank layning around somewhere you are welcome to. I think the drain is 1' and the return was 3/4" with loc line on the end. you would need 1 bulkhead.
If you feel confident about not breaking the glass I would just go ahead and cut some CL holes if you don'e want and power heads in the tank. You can always just cap them like you said and never use them for that matter but it sure would be nice to have them installed already if you decide to go that route. I had mine capped off for a month or so while I worked on the oceans motions plumbing. But I admit my CL is not all I hoped it would be...
I still have 2 big seios in there for added water movement.The 8-10x turnover range you may still get some dead spots that cyano will love. Esecially if you are trying to get all your flow from your return split 2 ways on a SCWD. Turnover rates is a little misleading IMO. You can have 40X turnover and still have dead spots if the flow is not set up right in enouph directions. You can always go back and add your CL or a few PH's if you are not happy though
.
NeveSSL
Got tubes?
I think I will probably drill some CL holes and cap them off.
I feel a bit overwhelmed at this point. I think whats going to have to happen is that I'm just going to have to do the best I can to begin with and deal with things from there.
I really think I'm just going to get some glass from glass cages and do my own... or if skwirl can get me some 8" pvc, I'll probably use that. I like the trashcan idea, but I'm just afraid that the thin plastic they're made of isn't strong enough.
Thanks again!
Brandon
I feel a bit overwhelmed at this point. I think whats going to have to happen is that I'm just going to have to do the best I can to begin with and deal with things from there.
I really think I'm just going to get some glass from glass cages and do my own... or if skwirl can get me some 8" pvc, I'll probably use that. I like the trashcan idea, but I'm just afraid that the thin plastic they're made of isn't strong enough.
Thanks again!
Brandon
