gelatin_man
New member
http://www.ledwholesalers.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=512
led for reef ...looks pretty cool.
led for reef ...looks pretty cool.
anyone try these yet???
- Thread starter gelatin_man
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Mmckibben
New member
Finally, I found some one with a pacific sun LED fixture. I plan to buy one of these for my 36 gallon bow front. I have a few questions; the product sheets for these don't tell you everything. I was wondering how often you have to replace the bulbs, and if you half to buy an entire new fixture to do that. By the way, beautiful tank!
Tanks, Mike
Tanks, Mike
MarineFishGuy
Capn Jack Sparrow
I have been doing a lot of reading on LEDs recently.
As far as this fixture, it is using the 1W LEDs, most people use 3W LEDs for primary lighting.
They have made up for that by using a lot more LEDs.
Based on the dimensions of the fixture, this would be appropriate to illuminate a 2' x 2' section of Reef. So for a typical 75g you would need two of them to not have shadows (as you can see in the photo).
The Par numbers are comparable to my 14K 250W Metal Halides in a Lumenbright reflector.
They are pretty close to a 2:1 ratio of White:Blue LEDs. This is what most people suggest provides the best balance of light.
I hope those opening on top are fans or there might be heat issues inside the fixture. It appears as though they likely are, but it does not mention active cooling. LEDs themselves still get pretty hot, but the heat radiates up and can be drawn away from the fixture via heat sinks and fans.
Where as heat from MH is radiated toward the tank.
If you give them a try, let us know how it works out for you. The price is about the same as a DIY setup without the extra work.
As far as this fixture, it is using the 1W LEDs, most people use 3W LEDs for primary lighting.
They have made up for that by using a lot more LEDs.
Based on the dimensions of the fixture, this would be appropriate to illuminate a 2' x 2' section of Reef. So for a typical 75g you would need two of them to not have shadows (as you can see in the photo).
The Par numbers are comparable to my 14K 250W Metal Halides in a Lumenbright reflector.
They are pretty close to a 2:1 ratio of White:Blue LEDs. This is what most people suggest provides the best balance of light.
I hope those opening on top are fans or there might be heat issues inside the fixture. It appears as though they likely are, but it does not mention active cooling. LEDs themselves still get pretty hot, but the heat radiates up and can be drawn away from the fixture via heat sinks and fans.
Where as heat from MH is radiated toward the tank.
If you give them a try, let us know how it works out for you. The price is about the same as a DIY setup without the extra work.
MarineFishGuy
Capn Jack Sparrow
With most LEDs of this type being around 120 degree viewing angle, this statement would suggest they are not using lenses.
3" off the water sounds pretty typical for an LED fixture.
MarineFishGuy
Capn Jack Sparrow
Maybe a Group Buy is in order. -jk
Minimum order from the manufacturer is 50 pieces, no listing of price at that quantity.
LED Light Manufacturer
They also have a 300W model that uses 288 1W LEDs, but the K rating is from 6500-15,000, not the 14K as the 120W unit.
The BridgeLux LEDs appear to be of a decent quality level. The Lumen Rating is on PAR with other High Wattage LEDs.
BridgeLux LED Brochure
Not sure if I would be brave enough to risk $400 on it myself, but it is definitely an intriguing option.
Minimum order from the manufacturer is 50 pieces, no listing of price at that quantity.
LED Light Manufacturer
They also have a 300W model that uses 288 1W LEDs, but the K rating is from 6500-15,000, not the 14K as the 120W unit.
The BridgeLux LEDs appear to be of a decent quality level. The Lumen Rating is on PAR with other High Wattage LEDs.
BridgeLux LED Brochure
Not sure if I would be brave enough to risk $400 on it myself, but it is definitely an intriguing option.
Mmckibben
New member
There's is a website made by pacific sun that advertises, and sells their led products. I recently contacted them for prices of the the 90w, and 120w versions; the 90w was $430, and the 120w was $530. This doesn't include shipping. You can order one, or more. For $150 you can update it so that it has a computer that simulates dusk, dawn, and moon light. The website is: http://www.aquariumled.eu/
Sincerely, Mike.
Sincerely, Mike.
MarineFishGuy
Capn Jack Sparrow
The Pacific Sun fixture lists CREE LEDs. Those are what most DIY reefers use to make their fixtures. The Luxeon are another popular brand.
The fixture in the link from LED Wholesaler lopks almost identical, except it list BridgeLux LEDs (instead of CREE). I had not heard of those being used before this post.
That may be why the Pacific Sun fixture costs $530, while the LED Wholesale fixture costs $389.
The cost of the LEDs themselves (usually $5-$8 each) is a large majority of the overall cost.
They dod not say if you can replace the individual LEDs, it depends on how they are affixed. If they used the Thermal Glue it is permanent. Many DIY people drill and tap the heat-sink and use screws for easier replacement.
Since they are expected to last 50,000 hours, you should not need to replace, although I have heard of LEDs burning out in the Solaris units.
The fixture in the link from LED Wholesaler lopks almost identical, except it list BridgeLux LEDs (instead of CREE). I had not heard of those being used before this post.
That may be why the Pacific Sun fixture costs $530, while the LED Wholesale fixture costs $389.
The cost of the LEDs themselves (usually $5-$8 each) is a large majority of the overall cost.
They dod not say if you can replace the individual LEDs, it depends on how they are affixed. If they used the Thermal Glue it is permanent. Many DIY people drill and tap the heat-sink and use screws for easier replacement.
Since they are expected to last 50,000 hours, you should not need to replace, although I have heard of LEDs burning out in the Solaris units.
MarineFishGuy
Capn Jack Sparrow
Good question.
There are a number of factors that go into that answer:
1. What version CREE LEDs. As I understand there are P4 and P5 (I think those are the designations). The P5s are more efficient and produce more lumens per watt.
2. The second factor is wattage. CREE LEDs come in different wattage ratings. Obviously the higher the wattage, the more lumens, but it is not a linear curve as I understand. The 3W seem to be the most efficient from what I have read, with the 5W having a diminishing return by comparison.
3. The third factor is optics. Adding optics can focus the light and improve depth penetration, but reduce the spread.
4. Next is the wavelength. Blue light produces fewer lumens per watt than white light. So the ratio of blue to white make a difference in the overall PAR production. A 2:1 ratio seems to be the most common from what I have read.
So unless you buy the LEDs yourself from a supplier who can provide all of these details and you install your own optics. Many of these factors may be difficult to determine.
I don't mean to complicate the discussion, but with LEDs being in their infancy in the aquarium industry, the designs will continue to improve considerably IMO. This is one reason I have not invested in the technology yet.
There are a number of factors that go into that answer:
1. What version CREE LEDs. As I understand there are P4 and P5 (I think those are the designations). The P5s are more efficient and produce more lumens per watt.
2. The second factor is wattage. CREE LEDs come in different wattage ratings. Obviously the higher the wattage, the more lumens, but it is not a linear curve as I understand. The 3W seem to be the most efficient from what I have read, with the 5W having a diminishing return by comparison.
3. The third factor is optics. Adding optics can focus the light and improve depth penetration, but reduce the spread.
4. Next is the wavelength. Blue light produces fewer lumens per watt than white light. So the ratio of blue to white make a difference in the overall PAR production. A 2:1 ratio seems to be the most common from what I have read.
So unless you buy the LEDs yourself from a supplier who can provide all of these details and you install your own optics. Many of these factors may be difficult to determine.
I don't mean to complicate the discussion, but with LEDs being in their infancy in the aquarium industry, the designs will continue to improve considerably IMO. This is one reason I have not invested in the technology yet.
MarineFishGuy
Capn Jack Sparrow
Long Reads is right. 
I have spent several weeks reading through all of those threads. Some have split multiple times so try to start at the beginning.
There is a mind numbing amount of information to digest, which is why I have taken my time reading them.
I have also been reviewing other LED sources in preparation for an upcoming meeting topic.
I have spent several weeks reading through all of those threads. Some have split multiple times so try to start at the beginning.
There is a mind numbing amount of information to digest, which is why I have taken my time reading them.
I have also been reviewing other LED sources in preparation for an upcoming meeting topic.
Mmckibben
New member
I saw a DIY that had 8 rows of six on a 120 gallon. He wasn't complete; no real par at x depth. He half white half blue, the white ones were 1 watt, 104 lumens, and the blues were 1 watt, 420nm. He had 10, or so, sps corals, and 1 or 2 clams. Do you think this might work on my tank?
Best regaurds, Mike.
Best regaurds, Mike.
Mmckibben
New member
I saw a DIY that had 8 rows of six on a 120 gallon. He wasn't complete; no real par at x depth. He half white half blue, the white ones were 1 watt, 104 lumens, and the blues were 1 watt, 420nm. He had 10, or so, sps corals, and 1 or 2 clams. Do you think this might work on my tank?
Best regards, Mike.
Best regards, Mike.
MarineFishGuy
Capn Jack Sparrow
8 rows of six using 3W LEDs may be enough for a 120g.
Using 1W LEDs, it seem like you would want more than 48.
Although I have not constructed an array yet.
From what I have read, typically it is around 75w per 2' x 2' of coverage.
Using 1W LEDs, it seem like you would want more than 48.
Although I have not constructed an array yet.
From what I have read, typically it is around 75w per 2' x 2' of coverage.
Huge thread on this topic!
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1678127
I've priced it out with the CREE LED's and it's not much cheaper on the DIY side than this unit itself.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1678127
I've priced it out with the CREE LED's and it's not much cheaper on the DIY side than this unit itself.
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