Anyone use a Phosban reactor as a Sulphur denitrator?
- Thread starter 32flavors
- Start date
Yes just go to home or lowes to their irrigation area and you can get hose fittings and flow reducer to lower the flow. Look for the drip irrigation stuff. They make a 1 gph automatic dripper that you can hook up to the out flow. To be safe get 2 or 3 and daisy chain them sulphur-sulphur-aragonite.
"Umm fish?"
Premium Member
You need the water to stay in your reactor system long enough that all the oxygen gets used up. If there's any O2 then the whole thing is useless.
tdwyatt
New member
...Or you could run the water through a column of sand prior to the sulfur in the reactor: if the sand is deep enough and you ran the water top to bottom, the bacteria in the sand once established should suck out the oxygen (assuming the rate of flow is not too great). Run the water from the bottom of this sand colum into the denitritrificator reactor.
kau_cinta_ku
New member
just make your own it is cheap enough
Is that a sulfur denitrator?
What do you use for sulfur and how much of it?
What do you do about the hydrogen sulfide, meaning where does your effluent go to in the sump?
What do you do about pH?
How many feet of coil is that?
Do you have a recirc pump or is it just on a really slow flow? ~drops per sec? What is the gph on the pump you're using?
How is the ball valve at the top of the unit attached to the unit? I asked a guy from that department at HD if they had any mini bulkheads, etc---he said the only bulk head he knew of were used in building houses... tried to explain what I meant, and he assured me they don't have anything like that. So, how do you get the hole secured, so it doesn't leak under pressure?
Sorry about all the questions.... I just don't want to guess...
What do you use for sulfur and how much of it?
What do you do about the hydrogen sulfide, meaning where does your effluent go to in the sump?
What do you do about pH?
How many feet of coil is that?
Do you have a recirc pump or is it just on a really slow flow? ~drops per sec? What is the gph on the pump you're using?
How is the ball valve at the top of the unit attached to the unit? I asked a guy from that department at HD if they had any mini bulkheads, etc---he said the only bulk head he knew of were used in building houses... tried to explain what I meant, and he assured me they don't have anything like that. So, how do you get the hole secured, so it doesn't leak under pressure?
Sorry about all the questions.... I just don't want to guess...
kau_cinta_ku
New member
1. it uses bio balls. it works just as good.
2. no sulfer just filled the interior of the canister with bioballs
3. it goes into the sump through a small bag of carbon.
4. it don't harm my pH of my main tank.
5. this is 100 feet of .250 tubing.
6. it is being ran with a mj1200 and the flow is just under a steady stream but still a drip.
7. the ball valve on the top of the unit is attached by using a drill and tap and threading it in. in my pic. it shows 3 ball valves, you really only need one to adjust the flow rate but this is what i had lying around so i used them.
also if you noticed i use a screw on top. the reason for this is because after 2-3 years it will need to get cleaned out from excess junk. but otherwise the top should never be removed you want it to be deprived of air inside the thing to make it work.
if you have any other questions feel free to ask.
2. no sulfer just filled the interior of the canister with bioballs
3. it goes into the sump through a small bag of carbon.
4. it don't harm my pH of my main tank.
5. this is 100 feet of .250 tubing.
6. it is being ran with a mj1200 and the flow is just under a steady stream but still a drip.
7. the ball valve on the top of the unit is attached by using a drill and tap and threading it in. in my pic. it shows 3 ball valves, you really only need one to adjust the flow rate but this is what i had lying around so i used them.
also if you noticed i use a screw on top. the reason for this is because after 2-3 years it will need to get cleaned out from excess junk. but otherwise the top should never be removed you want it to be deprived of air inside the thing to make it work.
if you have any other questions feel free to ask.
kau_cinta_ku
New member
the 100 feet of tubing I got from home depot it was used for irragating.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100057801
the reactor is 4" dia. 30" tall
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100057801
the reactor is 4" dia. 30" tall
))
kau_cinta_ku
New member
yeah that is very cheap.
any other prob.s or questions feel free to pm me also
any other prob.s or questions feel free to pm me also
Also, for the "drill and tap"... do you just drill the hole slightly smaller than the threaded end of the piece to be inserted and shove/screw it in? I asked a guy at HD about it--I keep getting the same guy--he said that would probably work but to use epoxy if it's going to be under any pressure just in case. Is this the best way or is there some fitting you insert into the drilled hole in the PVC cap that I'm missing. The pieces I'm referring to are the same ball valves in the picture above with a threaded end...
kau_cinta_ku
New member
if using the same ball valves and such with the threads i used a 7/16 drill with a 1/4-18 pipe tap along with wraping teflon tape around the threads. no leaks yet
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