Apollo Reef LED SolarBlast Dimable Review
- Thread starter Dustin1300
- Start date
Tank2379
Active member
For me this fit the bill perfect, I didn't want to spend Radion money and it was within my budget. I already had an Apex so I just needed the VDM module which didn't cost much. Since this was a great price with great reviews and a proven fixture, this is what swayed me to buy. Allot of other folks have different views becasue it's not high tech but it's high tech enough for me that it's built to run off the Apex and Sunrise/Sunset works great as long as you build your own program, but if not we can all help
Dustin1300
Reefaholic
Doug, I personally think 3 is pushing it on a 30 inch deep tank and I'd go with 4. My tests I performed seemed to show a good 24X36" area on the previous generation to the Acti-red. If you had a 24" deep tank I'd say 3 might fit the bill...Just my thought and opinion but I'd go with 4.
As tank outlined you'll need the Apex but you need that anyways. The programming is simple and the light is a PAR monster for the price. It may not be a Radion with all the bells and whistles but it does have control for dimming on both channels, single point of administration (Apex), and moonlights. I try to compare a few years back when you just had the option to turn MHs on or off. Now I have blues and whites on different channels and I can control the intensity but can't do lightning mode (Stress the fish...) and some other "features".
In addition, the way in which the fixtures are built it'd be easy to replace a driver, fan, switch should they burn out (Nothings perfect so I expect drivers just like ballasts to burn out from time to time). I'd recommend the fixture as the best out when you look at price/performance factor.
bhazard451
New member
Be careful in thinking warm whites can provide the same visuals as a red led. I have tested warm whites alone, and warm whites with a red 660nm led alongside, and visually the red led still provides a little more color in coral or fish. The overall spectrum benefits are still there in using neutral and warm whites however. The reason being, is that the warm whites don't hit a peak at 660nm, it is just there in a smaller amount.
The spectrum bump better represents sunlight, while sacrificing a bit of 450nm. Since you have so many royal blues already, the 450nm in cool whites are somewhat redundant. I use a mix of cool/neutral/and warm whites in my builds. Overall it would probably be better than the acti-red.
Last edited:
Dustin1300
Reefaholic
Lots of different variables make up a successful SPS tank so don't place blame on lights first.
What are your parameters? Are they stable? Light cycle and percentages (Acclimation in tank)? Depth of tank? Age of tank? Water flow? Coral placement and types of coral that are "struggling"?
I have several LPS, SPS, and Zoas that are doing well under the light and like any SPS, it takes some acclimation before things take off and coloration is right. Since I have a new tank once I got things acclimated I'm getting good growth and color from my pieces. After my crazy 6 week frag qt with 7 dippings I lose quite a bit of color before they make it to my system but I realize patience is part of this hobby:hmm4:
Thank bhazard, I think that the issue was that the reds were spotlighting? so they went with this, I'm not SUPER critical about the visuals as I actually like what I've seen with most LEDs, I'm most concerned about the health of the animals, the depth penetration (I want to go a little higher above the water if I can) and the spread so there aren't any shade areas. I'm pretty sure these are what I'm going with but its so hard when you can't physically see it.
Viper what depth are the corals at and how high above the water are the lights? and what do you mean by struggling, STN? RTN? Bleaching? I don't have those lights (yet?) but before others can answer I'm guessing they'll need to know some of that.
Viper what depth are the corals at and how high above the water are the lights? and what do you mean by struggling, STN? RTN? Bleaching? I don't have those lights (yet?) but before others can answer I'm guessing they'll need to know some of that.
Dustin1300
Reefaholic
Answer all the other questions posted earlier and add Phosphates to the list of parameters...
bhazard451
New member
The red shadows are apparent in cave like areas and on rocks.
I tried the same thing in my last light. I used warm whites to try to remove the red shadows... and guess what, you now get yellow shadows instead of red. lol
Its all based on personal preference. The best option is to have red/green/blue/white etc on their own channels that you can adjust to your liking, but you have to compromise with only 2 channels.
Dustin1300
Reefaholic
No problem and I'm not the light police, just always want to make it clear that lights are one variable (Important variable I agree) in the picture but many components are involved that can take play with some of the more critical coral.
Dustin1300
Reefaholic
How high were the lights mounted off the water surface and how deep was the tank again?
bhazard451
New member
Oh yeah, I can share some apex programming that will make the light go into a "thunderstorm" through one of the feed modes if you guys would like it.
Dustin1300
Reefaholic
bhazard, here's my post from earlier....I don't think the capacitors can handle it suddenly charging/dis-charging but maybe you have additional Apex knowledge on getting it to work?
bhazard451
New member
It can. It's not fast twitch, but still resembles it. It could probably use a tweak or two if there is too much blue, but it works.
Try this:
[ Storm1 ] ( PF7 )
Type: Pump
Synchronize: Enable
Divide By 10: Enable
Initial Off Time: 45
On Time: 1
Off Time: 19
Minimum Intensity: 20
Maximum Intensity: 100
[ Storm2 ] ( PF8 )
Type: Pump
Synchronize: Enable
Divide By 10: Enable
Initial Off Time: 35
On Time: 1
Off Time: 12
Minimum Intensity: 22
Maximum Intensity: 100
Add the following lines to your Var channels. Use a different feed mode if B is taken.
[ BlueLED ] ( base_Var1 )
If FeedB 000 Then Storm1
[ WhiteLED ] ( base_Var2 )
If FeedB 000 Then Storm2
Turn on FeedB manually whenever you want to start the storm
Last edited:
Dustin1300
Reefaholic
Turn on FeedB manually whenever you want to see if your fish are epileptic
Fixed that for you^^^ :fun4:
***I'll have to try it out when I have some spare time this week to play around in fish room.
Similar threads
