Aquaph8's 225 Build
- Thread starter aquaph8
- Start date
riseandfloat
New member
Hey aqua, I'm loving the build so far... What is that you used to enclose the top of the tank to eliminate carpet surfers? 
I want to use that for my tank.
I want to use that for my tank.
aquaph8
Love The Fish
Hey aqua, I'm loving the build so far... What is that you used to enclose the top of the tank to eliminate carpet surfers?
Thanks, I'm glad your liking it. The top is a DIY window screen kit with a clear 1/4" mesh used in place of the screen. Bulk reef supply caries it all up to 30". If you need bigger than that PM me for details cause I would have to look it up.
prop-frags
SPS Slave
Tagging along Brett...
Great build thread so far. Your new tank and sump look awesome!
Great build thread so far. Your new tank and sump look awesome!
d3hree
New member
Looking good aquaph8!
I have a couple of questions re your plumbing.
I may well have this wrong but it looks like you have a non-return valve after the pump, then the flow is directed to a cross where the upper part feeds your manifold and the left and right are returns to your tank?
Personally I wouldnt solely trust a non return valve to stop the water if you want to service the pump. I would also have a good quality ball valve there. ( that is ofcourse if it is a non return valve)
I have one on my current tank to stop the back syphon in the event of a power failure. It has never worked right as when the pressure equalise on both sides it just remains open. I also have ball valves fortunately for pump servicing.
I think I would also be tempted to rework the "cross" where the pipes connect.
If i am reading it right the majority of flow would naturally feed the manifold by going directly vertical. Only closing the valve to the manifold would then stop a % of the water to then be diverted left or right at the "cross".
I dont think that using this plumbing would get the most out of your pump. i think the cross introduces too much frictional resistance and your flow at tank side wont be as good as it could be.
I have a couple of questions re your plumbing.
I may well have this wrong but it looks like you have a non-return valve after the pump, then the flow is directed to a cross where the upper part feeds your manifold and the left and right are returns to your tank?
Personally I wouldnt solely trust a non return valve to stop the water if you want to service the pump. I would also have a good quality ball valve there. ( that is ofcourse if it is a non return valve)
I have one on my current tank to stop the back syphon in the event of a power failure. It has never worked right as when the pressure equalise on both sides it just remains open. I also have ball valves fortunately for pump servicing.
I think I would also be tempted to rework the "cross" where the pipes connect.
If i am reading it right the majority of flow would naturally feed the manifold by going directly vertical. Only closing the valve to the manifold would then stop a % of the water to then be diverted left or right at the "cross".
I dont think that using this plumbing would get the most out of your pump. i think the cross introduces too much frictional resistance and your flow at tank side wont be as good as it could be.
Grahamathon
New member
Nice aquarium.
d3hree's mockup is fantastic and I strongly recommend utilizing the style of fittings in the rendering. True union valves (Spears makes great valves and fittings, all around) are not only very aesthetically pleasing, but functional to the point of being a worthwhile purchase. I know all about a budget, but what I've always found is that spending twice as much on the cheapest aspects of a build/system (i.e. plumbing) is often just as much, if not more, of a worthwhile and rewarding purchase. Plus it always makes an amazing rimless setup as yours look all the more professional!
Also in your current plumbing setup (as well as d3hree's mockup, if I'm not mistaken), if that side manifold is supplying water to reactors, a skimmer, or anything else down in the sump then the water will siphon back down through those into the sump until the height of the holes on your loc-lines. Maybe I missed a check valve or something along the way, but I just don't want you to end up with a floor full of saltwater.
d3hree's mockup is fantastic and I strongly recommend utilizing the style of fittings in the rendering. True union valves (Spears makes great valves and fittings, all around) are not only very aesthetically pleasing, but functional to the point of being a worthwhile purchase. I know all about a budget, but what I've always found is that spending twice as much on the cheapest aspects of a build/system (i.e. plumbing) is often just as much, if not more, of a worthwhile and rewarding purchase. Plus it always makes an amazing rimless setup as yours look all the more professional!
Also in your current plumbing setup (as well as d3hree's mockup, if I'm not mistaken), if that side manifold is supplying water to reactors, a skimmer, or anything else down in the sump then the water will siphon back down through those into the sump until the height of the holes on your loc-lines. Maybe I missed a check valve or something along the way, but I just don't want you to end up with a floor full of saltwater.
aquaph8
Love The Fish
I think if you ask everyone how they would do it every answer would be different. But for what its worth I think I would tweak what you have to be something like this.
Ok, Im gonna try and rework it a little. I have a couple questions though. What does the pipe going back down off the Y do for me, is it just another way to restrict your pump? The flexable PVC, is it worth it? Thanks D3hree for all your input, its appreciated.
aquaph8
Love The Fish
I agree, it looks really great. As far as the ball valves go, Im fine with simple ball valves cause im gonna use unions all over the place anyways. I like the idea of being able to remove everything if I need to. Plus the regular ball valves are hard to turn, which sounds like a negative but if they're hard for me to turn my kids wont be able to turn them .
Grahamathon
New member
The pipe that's valved off going right back to the sump is called a bypass. It functions to minimize the stress on the pump by relieving unnecessary back-pressure caused by restricted plumbing. For example if your pump provides more water than your aquarium drainage can handle, you can open up the bypass enough to get the appropriate inflow without having to add unnecessary "head pressure" to your pump. If you simply valve off the return line from the pump this adds extra pressure on it, which basically acts the same way as if you extended the height to which it has to pump. This is not the end of the world (especially for pressure-rated pumps), but adds a little bit of extra unnecessary burden and stress on the pump which can shorten the lifespan and/or cause the pump to run hotter and use more power.
Bypasses can also be handy in an emergency like a drain clogging scenario where you can access the valves faster/more easily than the power switch (which probably shouldn't be an issue, but for some people it might be). Opening up that valve fully will route at least most (but should be all, as in the rendering) of the water back down safely into the pump as it's the lowest and least-resistant path the water can travel.
Bypasses can also be handy in an emergency like a drain clogging scenario where you can access the valves faster/more easily than the power switch (which probably shouldn't be an issue, but for some people it might be). Opening up that valve fully will route at least most (but should be all, as in the rendering) of the water back down safely into the pump as it's the lowest and least-resistant path the water can travel.
aquaph8
Love The Fish
oh, ok I get it. Thanks Grahamathon. I dont think this would be a problem with mine cause I think my drain will handle much more than my pump could ever push. Here is how the drain is setup. The pipes are 1.5". Thoughts? Also, can we talk about the stuff plumbed off the manifold siphoning? Should I put the check valve higher up so water doesnt gets cut off before that point or is there a better way.
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