Aqueon Modular ProFlex Sump Filtration

hm i see your point jim. i agree with you but how i have my set up if my return does shut off for any reason my skimmer stays the same and doesnt overflow. i use a check valve as a secondary fail safe along with my holes in the line up top. other then that i really dont have a problem with overflow issues in the sump. but now that i look at your skimmer the swc wants to run at around 10" of water which i can see why you would overflow. my skimmers at 8" and even if my return fails and the check valve it can still fill the whole sump w/o overflowing. this is the key reason i bought the xs160 then the swc i was worried about the water height for it to operate smoothly... btw goodbar hows it going with the duel reactor???

ps: only reason why i was giving the other guy a hard time is because he just popped in here talked smack and didnt have anything to say to back up his side of the story. anyone can come in and talk all the smack they want but if you dont have a good defense for your argument it kinda goes down the drain and you look like a complete idiot.
 
Is anyone else having problems keeping macro in the 2nd chamber? mine keeps going over the baffle into darkness.
 
Updated Pics !

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Hi guys, I have recently set up a 180g with corner overflows with the proflex model 4 sump. The tank is 6ft long and the drain area is sitting on the left side of the tank in the stand. I bought 2 flexible drain pipes from my LFS at 2ft and the other 6ft to accomodate the length. My 2ft pipe drain seems to be working fine, the water level in the overflow stays constant but the right side one makes alot of burping noise as if there's too much air going into the pipe (not the slurping noise from overflow) the water level doesn't stay constant and would fluctuate wildly no matter how much I adjust the holes on the durso pipe. This causes the third chamber water level to fluctuate considerably as well. This is a big issue for my skimmer and ATO and most of all it's noisy which defeats my purpose of being this sump first place because it should be very quiet. Does anybody has this problem and know of a fix?

Also, my skimmer is Bubble Magus 220CS which recommended to sit in 9.5" to 11" of water. Now if I do that, in case of power outtage, the sump will overflow for sure. The highest water level I can keep without the sump overflowing which I tested in 8" max... any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.
 
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^ One trick I have often read about to address this problem with durso pipes is to put an air hose or rigid air tube down the air hole in the pipe. You will have to play with just how far down the pipe you have to insert it until it stops burping. Depending on the diameter of your durso pipe, you may also want to experiment with different diameter air tubes.
 
Hey Guys - Good Info in this thread! I'm planning to buy a Proflex Model 3 for a 90 gg Aqueon AGA tank with the Aqueon Stand. I really want to get the Avast CS1 Cone Skimmer but am unsure if it will fit in the Sump.

Anyone know if it will fit snug? or will it have enough room for me add other things like Heater/Pump and such.
 
im not too sure about your skimmer because i never owned one but make sure the water level it needs doesnt exceed the height of the rim or close to to the point where it will overflow if a power outage occurs. if i was you id look into reef octopus xs160. i dont how ever use a heater in my sump; i place mine in my overflow box. as of other equipment i fit a mag drive 9.5 as a return pump, and a tunze osmolater ATO. i run bio pellets and carbon in reactors with my setup and have the tubes running down into my sump. one day i will have dosing equipment but im sure it wont be a problem just having a tube organizer to keep them secured on the rim of the 3rd chamber. good luck.
 
Yea I am debating my skimmers. I was looking into a Reef Octopus as well but the CS1 Cone Skimmer has great reviews. Also I was debating b/w a Mag Drive 9.5 and Eheim 1260 return.

How do you have the Reactors setup? I see you have three valves on the side. Can you explain that setup?

Thanks
 
Also the tech details for CS1 Cone Skimmer are:

Technical Details:
Tank Rating: 100-200 gallons
Footprint: 9"x10"
Height: 22", with Swabbie 25.75"
Diameter at Base 7.5"
Neck diameter: 3.75"
Collection Cup Diameter: 6"
Collection Cup Drain: Standard
Air Silencer: Standard
Sicce PSK1000 performance: 900 lph @ 23w, 1100lph when used with recirc kit
For in sump use: 6"-8" depth (recirc kit allows essentially any depth up to the top of the air intake)


Seems like it would fit in the ProFlex Model 3
 
yea i just made a manifold with 3 T's on them and i just have flex tubes connected into each reactors. with the return pump on its powering each reactor and circulating water into my display tank. each reactor is controlled with a valve so i can control the flow. my carbon reactor flow is very slow so i have that valve 3/4 way closed as my bio pellets valve is wide open for maximum flow.

i made this manifold so i dont have to run unnecessary pumps taking up electricity and sump space. why buy another pump when i have a perfectly good one right here. lol
 
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As others have said, thanks to all for the great info available in this thread!

I got the ProFlex 4 sump as part of a used 75 gallon tank package that I bought off of Craigslist. I am planning to do the Bean Animal overflow system with this ProFlex 4 sump. I saw EuroDriver's modifications (post #166 of this thread) that he did and thought I might do something similar. Before I do that, though, I have a couple of questions that maybe some more experienced folks might be able to help answer - this will be my first reef tank, and first ever experience with a sump.

There are two, 1" inlets on the entry to the sump, along with three filter socks for this ProFlex model 4. One thought that I have is to split the full siphon channel that will be coming down 1.5" piping, into two, 1" feeds that would go to each inlet. Then, drill like EuroDriver did, and put the other two 1.5" pipes into two of the three filter socks. The other immediate option I see is to run all three 1.5" pipes straight into the filter socks, and bypass using the inlets altogether. With the first option, it seems that I would be using the sump more as it is designed. Would there be an advantage to running that full siphon line into the split that would then run into the inlet tubes? The other thought that goes through my mind, is that it may not really matter because the option where you just run all three lines into the filters socks is like what a traditional sump would be anyway.

Would some folks care to offer some suggestions? I'm really open to learning about the best ways to handle this.

Thanks!

ChadO
 
MARLANDO said:
Updated Pics !

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photo-75.jpg
Click to expand...

What kind of light are you using on your fuge? I have the coralife refugium light on my proflex sump but haven't been able to grow chaeto at all with it. I might be mistaken but it looks like you were using the coralife fuge light but now your using something different.
 
GunkGunk said:
What kind of light are you using on your fuge? I have the coralife refugium light on my proflex sump but haven't been able to grow chaeto at all with it. I might be mistaken but it looks like you were using the coralife fuge light but now your using something different.
Click to expand...

Using the JBJ Nano Refuge light, LED
 
Thanks for the quick answer. It looks like that light is working great for growing chaeto! Did you have any problems growing chaeto with the coralife mini?
 
GunkGunk said:
Thanks for the quick answer. It looks like that light is working great for growing chaeto! Did you have any problems growing chaeto with the coralife mini?
Click to expand...

Never had that light, this JBJ was the first one that I used, recommended from another reefer ! I haze ZERO issues with the light and my Chaeto grow crazy with it, always trimming 2-3 weeks !
 
Back in hobby after 5 year hiatus. Picking up 57g oceanic rimless rr and stand. Getting proflex 3 sump. Swc 120 streamed cone skimmer. Mag drive 950 return pump. Either TLF phosban reactors or brs dual, still researching. Setup will be similar to scarface with reactors to return line. Thoughts on ato? What heaters you all using? Thoughts on this setup?
 
Help!

Help!

Hello,

I know this is an old thread but hopefully someone can help- I have the model 4 and can figure out all the connections except how to connect the drain to the bulkhead using the hoses provided. I tried both 1 inch and 1 1/4 inch barbed fittings and 1 inch is to small and 1 1/4 is too big.

HOW DID YOU GUYS HOOK THEM UP TO THE BULKHEADS???

Thanks for the help,

JIM
 
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