Are my lights too high? (pics)

[iwishtofish]

I have two recently acquired acropora (about 3 weeks) that are mid-level in my 75g tank. My 6-bulb Tek T5 fixture is 7.5" bulb-to-water. Since adding the corals, they have lost some of their color, and I presume this is attributable to phosphates, but possibly lighting as well. Should I lower my fixture a bit more?

Picture showing fixture height over tank:

Picture showing coral placement:

My full lighting is on for 9hr45min every day, but only because the first part of every day lately has slightly cloudy water due to a persistent bacterial or algal bloom.

 

[bryman]

My ATI PM is 6" over the water in my 90, and that's about as close as I can get without frying anything. I still have to hide my acans and chalices under ledges. This is with all ATI bulbs. It depends on the depth of your tank though and the bulbs you are running. SPS also don't always do great right away in a newly setup tank, but that's my 2 cents.

 

[iwishtofish]

My ATI PM is 6" over the water in my 90, and that's about as close as I can get without frying anything. I still have to hide my acans and chalices under ledges. This is with all ATI bulbs. It depends on the depth of your tank though and the bulbs you are running. SPS also don't always do great right away in a newly setup tank, but that's my 2 cents.

The corals are about 11.5" below the surface of the water. I am using 5 ATI / 1 GE bulbs. The tank has about 20" of water in it.

I know my fixture doesn't have quite the PAR of your ATI fixture. Perhaps I should lower it an inch or two? Then again, I'm a little concerned about light shock if my water issue clears up somewhat suddenly...

Not an easy decision, I suppose.

 

[MarcoPolo]

I have two recently acquired acropora (about 3 weeks) that are mid-level in my 75g tank. My 6-bulb Tek T5 fixture is 7.5" bulb-to-water. Since adding the corals, they have lost some of their color, and I presume this is attributable to phosphates, but possibly lighting as well. Should I lower my fixture a bit more?

Picture showing fixture height over tank:

My full lighting is on for 9hr45min every day, but only because the first part of every day lately has slightly cloudy water due to a persistent bacterial or algal bloom.

Judging from the pics, Your tank looks very "clean" as if it were brand new ( by the way nice tank...). The LR does not look very "live" - How long have you been running this tank, and what are your parameters?

The light hight looks ok, I'm more wondering if you are adding sps too early to the tank before it fully matures?

 

[jc-reef]

^^^^^ +1 your tank looks like it was just set up. Need to let is cycle and for the rock to make home to bacteria population. I agree that it seems a bit pre-mature to add corals. How long has this been set up?

Nice looking though.

 

[bryman]

The corals are about 11.5" below the surface of the water. I am using 5 ATI / 1 GE bulbs. The tank has about 20" of water in it.

I know my fixture doesn't have quite the PAR of your ATI fixture. Perhaps I should lower it an inch or two? Then again, I'm a little concerned about light shock if my water issue clears up somewhat suddenly...

Not an easy decision, I suppose.

To answer your question, I'd lower it down to about 6". With the height difference of our tanks, I think that would be about the same light to coral distance that I have now. It has worked pretty well for me.

And to echo the others, you have a nice tank and by your post count I am sure you know what you are doing. But if your tank is cycling right now with SPS they will probably be stressed and lose color if not die. I'd keep a close eye on your Ammonia and Nitrite so they don't spike too high if this is the case and do water changes if necessary to avoid losing the frags.

 

[iwishtofish]

Thanks for all the comments! I believe the tank completed its cycle a while back (been set up since the end of March), but I also believe I'm having some fluctuations in bacterial population since I have no fish to feed. Finding the proper balance between feeding the microfauna and not polluting the tank has been a problem for me.

Yes, I added sps corals too soon. It was a miscalculation.

Recent parameters:

07-11-2011
---------------

pH 8.4 (API)
Alk 8 (API)
Ca 440 (API)
Mg 1350 (Salifert)
PO4 0 (API)
Sg 1.026 (Refractometer)

07-12-2011
---------------

Nitrate 0 (API)

By the way, the pictures aren't the most recent, but they do reflect the correct height of the lamps. Here is the state of the DT rock (Marco Rocks) and the sump rock (8 lbs live rock, Marco Rock rubble) now. I have some coralline growing on the dry rock, and asterinas breeding like crazy:

 

[iwishtofish]

Sump shot (taken at height of bacterial bloom, the other morning):

Skimmer shot (from tonight):

 

[Akrite]

How did you completely cycle your system with no fish? You need to add some fish (3 or 4) and I won't recommend adding any more SPS until you get some coralline growth on your live rock, just my opinion.

 

[SaltwaterAdict]

You need more fish the sps are going to starve!! With no coralline this raises a lot of questions. I think it would be a good idea to take your time and go slower. SPS can be very sensitive if the proper conditions aren't met.

Looks like a good setup with all quality equipment just needs a little time..

 

[iwishtofish]

Yeah, I know, I've already admitted I made a mistake in adding the corals too soon. It is hard to see in the pictures (I'm a lousy photographer), but the coralline is starting to take off on the dry rock.

It was a challenge cycling the tank with all dry rock. I used a chunk of raw shrimp and heavy dosing of MB7. Despite the shrimp, I never did see measurable amounts of ammonia - something some people have attributed to the MB7. I have had hermits from early on, and at one point was feeding them pellets heavily to compensate for the lack of algae. I wouldn't really recommend an all-dry-rock setup for someone who doesn't know exactly how to do it (me).

I did attempt two fish already, but I did not QT based on the "first fish theory," and that was a mistake. The McCosker's wrasse ate mysis like a pig, but died anyway. The clown goby disappeared - it should have been trained to eat in QT.

All rookie mistakes were made by someone who should know better by now. I am just trying to recover.

 

[iwishtofish]

Would DT's Oyster Eggs be a good food source until I can increase my bioload through the addition of fish? Are there any other really good foods that actually make a difference?

 

[bryman]

I like Reef Chili for feeding SPS.

 

[iwishtofish]

I like Reef Chili for feeding SPS.

Ok, thanks!

 

[tmgrash]

I like Reef Chili for feeding SPS.

Whats the "v" in your sig, thought it was a "b".

 

[bryman]

Whats the "v" in your sig, thought it was a "b".

That's my little adaptation of Melev's acronym. The V stands for Vodka, because I've had a lot of success using it in the tank.

 

[allsps40]

I think you just need to give them time and stability. Your light height is good. Your tank looks pretty young as well, sps do better in a mature tank.

 

[iwishtofish]

I think you just need to give them time and stability. Your light height is good. Your tank looks pretty young as well, sps do better in a mature tank.

Thanks, I will leave the lights where they are, per the majority of suggestions to do so.

I think you are right. The tank is young, but I'm optimistic things will work out. My levels are good, I've had the first significant algae bloom come and now it is going, coralline is starting to purple up on the rocks, and there are pods of different varieties showing up everywhere. I've started very lightly feeding the tank again, so that when I get some fish it can handle the bioload.

If these morning blooms :angryfire: would go away, I could shorten my photoperiod again!

 

[blakers82]

Nice skimmer. It's rocking and there's no Fish Poop! LOL Give it some time and things will be much easier on you.

 

[jcw]

Yeah, I know, I've already admitted I made a mistake in adding the corals too soon. It is hard to see in the pictures (I'm a lousy photographer), but the coralline is starting to take off on the dry rock.

No you didn't.

If you keep on top of your water parameters, dose calc and bicarbonate, your tank is fine for corals.

I know there's a few people that recommend adding corals before fish. (I know, but they are SPS)

Honestly, in my experience since coming back into this hobby, corals are easier to keep and grow modestly than fish.

You know what would jump start your tank?

If you can find a friendly fellow reefer with a VERY WELL established tank, with no pest or parasite problems. Buy a couple large rocks from his system to seed your own. Wait a couple weeks. Find another reefer with a great system.

It's like cheating, but man it works. If you were closer you could have some of mine. (I did have flatworms and do have aiptasia and one spot of HA. none of it has been a problem. the flatworms population dropped after the fish were added. the aiptasia die and come back ocassioanly. Probably 3 in the tank now. I pick the ones off the substrate every couple weeks.)

Good luck.